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3W-lonerider
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« on: February 17, 2011, 03:51:56 PM » |
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getting ready to replace thermostat and o-rings on the water pipes..any do's and don'ts from people that have done this..looks like a pretty straight forward job but if there are shortcuts or things that should'nt be done to acomplish this task it would be great to know..
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sandy
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« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2011, 04:42:06 PM » |
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I have 118K on my Valk with the original T'Stat. Are you having problems??
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3W-lonerider
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« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2011, 04:51:39 PM » |
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yes..141k here..i don't think mine is opening fully..over heats to fast when stopped in traffic.
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2011, 05:14:24 PM » |
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Is the fan coming on in a timely manner?
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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3W-lonerider
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« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2011, 05:16:55 PM » |
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fans working like it should.
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Bobbo
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« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2011, 06:03:25 PM » |
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T-stats rarely fail partially. When was the last time you replaced the coolant? Have you made sure you used silica free antifreeze if you did? Is the level correct? Have you cleaned the radiator fins? How does the inside of the radiator look? Any buildup?
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3W-lonerider
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« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2011, 06:14:30 PM » |
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iv'e checked everything that can be checked..iv'e covered all my bases..bike does fine unless i'm stopped so i seriously believe the thermostat is not opening the full way hense not enough circulation..so i'm replacing it..bottom line.
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Bobbo
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« Reply #7 on: February 17, 2011, 07:04:12 PM » |
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You overheat light comes on when stopped? Have you checked the sending unit?
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3W-lonerider
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« Reply #8 on: February 17, 2011, 11:51:29 PM » |
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bobbo..heres the scoop..iv'e been turning wrenches fr 35 years now..i'm a road service tech for an equipment rental company working on everything from lawn mowers to catapiller dozers to 135 foot boom lifts. if i'm not capable of diagnosing a simple cooling system on a bike i better just sell eveything i have and go on welfare. i know what my problem is..i was just asking people that have done this before and if they performed steps that wer'nt nesesary or if they ran into any problems i might look out for. forgive me if i'm sounding rude but i'm not some backyard mechanic doing this for the first time..
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #9 on: February 18, 2011, 02:54:45 AM » |
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seems like I remember that the o-rings were directional. Maybe one side was flat, the other round.
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Black Dog
Member
Posts: 2606
VRCC # 7111
Merton Wisconsin 53029
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« Reply #10 on: February 18, 2011, 06:44:39 AM » |
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I did just what you are doing a few years ago, and to me the hardest part was getting easy access to the thermostat housing, to remove and replace... Some may say it's not necessary, but I found that removing the radiator, and the frame crossmember right in front of the thermostat housing made the job much easier. My paws are kinda large, and it gave me the room to work in that small space  Black Dog |
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Just when the highway straightened out for a mile And I was thinkin' I'd just cruise for a while A fork in the road brought a new episode Don't you know... Conform, go crazy, or ride a motorcycle...  |
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Bobbo
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« Reply #11 on: February 18, 2011, 07:01:41 AM » |
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bobbo..heres the scoop..iv'e been turning wrenches fr 35 years now..i'm a road service tech for an equipment rental company working on everything from lawn mowers to catapiller dozers to 135 foot boom lifts. if i'm not capable of diagnosing a simple cooling system on a bike i better just sell eveything i have and go on welfare. i know what my problem is..i was just asking people that have done this before and if they performed steps that wer'nt nesesary or if they ran into any problems i might look out for. forgive me if i'm sounding rude but i'm not some backyard mechanic doing this for the first time..
My questions weren’t meant to demean your diagnostic abilities. Since this forum is used as a learning aid for less seasoned wrenchers, it is common to go over the steps that determined the failure as well as the corrective procedure. As someone with a long history of turning wrenches, as well as advanced degrees in mechanical and electronic engineering, I often appreciate someone asking basic questions as a sanity check.  |
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billyjakester
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« Reply #12 on: February 18, 2011, 10:28:03 AM » |
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I'd also remove the left side black plastic steering head cover that partially sits under the fuel tank. Gives you better view of the thermostat area.
Never could fit the new HDLparts replacement hose onto the top radiator connection. I swear the hose i.d. was too small. If there's a 'next' time, I'd soak the hose in hot water before hand. I was unable to find another vendor, other than HDLparts, for size comparison. If someone has another source I'd appreciate a head's up.
Handle the chrome (plastic) radiator side covers with care.....(replacement +$100). To access the chrome cover mounting screw - it's necessary to 'cut off' the reflector for access.
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Black Dog
Member
Posts: 2606
VRCC # 7111
Merton Wisconsin 53029
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« Reply #13 on: February 18, 2011, 11:19:39 AM » |
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Handle the chrome (plastic) radiator side covers with care.....(replacement +$100). To access the chrome cover mounting screw - it's necessary to 'cut off' the reflector for access.
The above quote from billyjacksters post raises a question... I don't think removing the chrome from the radiator is necessary (Standard/Tour), to remove the radiator itself... Was there a reason you needed to remove the reflectors and chrome? I just pulled the top mounting bolt (behind the top of the radiator), tilted the radiator forward and off (hoses & sensors too).
Just didn't want to make 3W think that it was necessary to remove the chrome in order to get the radiator off.
Black Dog
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Just when the highway straightened out for a mile And I was thinkin' I'd just cruise for a while A fork in the road brought a new episode Don't you know... Conform, go crazy, or ride a motorcycle... |
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billyjakester
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« Reply #14 on: February 18, 2011, 12:51:41 PM » |
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Absolutely correct......
Not necessary to remove the chrome radiator side pieces. It was just a reminder if you start to wrestle the hose onto the top connection - treat the chrome side piece gentlly. If you grab the chrome side piece for leverage, you could place enough stress on it to crack the area where it mounts.
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giggles
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« Reply #15 on: February 18, 2011, 12:57:39 PM » |
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thanks everyone. for your responces. and sorry bobbo for my responce i was out of line. as far as the chrome side covers on the radiator i don't have them.this is an i/s. i'll deffinatly remove that crossmember because i also want to drill holes in it and put set screws in it..i know i'm getting a buzz from that thing. tightened it a few years ago and never solved that problem.
another question.how far does the radiator have to be tilted to remove it..reason i'm asking that..i tried removing it last winter and never could get it to let go..
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billyjakester
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« Reply #16 on: February 18, 2011, 01:01:24 PM » |
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I can only address the 'standard', but after you tilt the radiator forward - it must be slid to the left approx. 1". The bottom radiator mounts slide onto stationary male pins.
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3W-lonerider
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« Reply #17 on: February 19, 2011, 07:45:50 AM » |
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well got the radiator out..no wonder i could'nt remove it last year..i was trying to go the wrong direction with it  ..came out easy when you go the right way.  .got thermostat out..sure enough theres rub marks on the side of the thermotat where it has been binding up on itself..put it in boiling water and it only opened up 1/4 of the way..it was deffinatly wore out..but was still working somewhat. now waiting on an upper hose..had to cut it off.. |
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Bobbo
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« Reply #18 on: February 19, 2011, 07:59:43 AM » |
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Some good info to post would be how far the thermostat opens in boiling water. That may help others when trying to see if the thermostat is the problem, or they need to continue looking. What is the measured opening of a new thermostat?
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