Tie-down tightness when trailering

[Special K]

Is there an amount to ratchet down your tie down straps when you're trailering your bike?  How far down should you take your shocks?  I've heard someone mention an amount but forget where I saw it or how much that was.

Thanks!

[bg]

i run my  ratchets down and toward  the front for the front and down and toward the rear for the rear.
i use the engine guards as my tie points.
once the bike is secure i shake the bike and the whole trailer will move.
just check it when you stop for gas periodically to make sure it is still secure.
to this point i've had no issues doing it this way.
RJ has pics he's posted of tieing the bike down and it helped a lot.
maybe he will chime in and offer his opinion too.

[Special K]

Do you remember how far down your shocks went - or how tight?  Until they bottomed out?  Half way?

Thanks!

[fudgie]

No bottoming out but some tension is needed. KS up.

[R J]

Use the engine guards and the saddlebag rails or the rear of the frame.

Front straps go forward, rear straps go back.

This way you take all the forward/rearward motion out of it and the shocks can do what ever they want to.

Make sure the bike and the trailer move a ONE unit.

You can only pull the straps so tight this way, but trust me, they will not go anywhere if ya do it like the picture.

Front:



Rear:



Keep the front wheel from moving side to side.  With a chock or a couple of 2X4's nailed to the floor of the trailer, or bolted.   Your choice.

The chock in this one came with the trailer.  It is all air, ride, lift and etc.

[R J]

Do you remember how far down your shocks went - or how tight?  Until they bottomed out?  Half way?

Thanks!

The shocks should stay at normal height except for a very little these contact points will pull it down.     You will need to be a Hulk Hogan to bottom out the shocks attached this way.   Ya can't pull the strap any tighter.

[Special K]

Great info!  Thanks very much.

[Big IV]

mine sing like banjo strings.

[Hook#3287]

I pulled the front down too much once and dimpled my fender on the lights I have under the bottom triple tree.   

I think what's just as important as how tight, is to have quality heavy duty rachet style tye downs for the front (don't ask why I learned that!)  and at minimum, standard rachet style straps on the back crash bars (tourer).  Tractor Supply has 5,000 lb ones for $15.00 or so.

I took the car train from Washington DC to FL once with my bike.  The attendents double strapped everything with 1 rachet and 1 thumb lever type.  You gotta know the train sways alot so they must have learned the hard way.

Another time I trailered 6 bikes to M Beach SC.  I told everyone to bring they're own straps and to get"Good" ones.  Two guys listened, three didn't.  The two that did, got they're bikes in front with mine and the three that didn't, got dents when 1 strap broke. 

[hubcapsc]

I hook Ancra motorcycle tie-downs to the handlebars near the risers, get as near to a 45 degree angle
out of each tie-down, tightened just barely enough that when you rock the bike it rocks the truck bed...
This has always worked for me, even when it is a Valkyrie and even when Carolyn is driving and it is
West Virginia.

It makes RJ post in UPPERCASE when I mention how I do it (using the bars), so I'm just saying this
works for me... bars can spin in the risers if you hook to them in the wrong place...

-Mike

[Big IV]

luckily I've only rarely had to tie mine down.

[RedValk]

I hook Ancra motorcycle tie-downs to the handlebars near the risers, get as near to a 45 degree angle
out of each tie-down, tightened just barely enough that when you rock the bike it rocks the truck bed...
This has always worked for me, even when it is a Valkyrie and even when Carolyn is driving and it is
West Virginia.

It makes RJ post in UPPERCASE when I mention how I do it (using the bars), so I'm just saying this
works for me... bars can spin in the risers if you hook to them in the wrong place...

-Mike

there are several ways to do it ....and probably all are pretty effective. I'm an Engineer, and i want more leverage for stability. as such, i strap to the forks with one HEAVY duty set...and one to the bars with a canyon dancer strap. the bar tie down is a lighter duty strap...and just for added stability and "just in case" the main straps should fail (yes, i've had straps fail from age on bouncey roads!)


Personnally, i've tried the "case saver" method....but given the layout of my trailer and tie down points, it does NOT give me enough leverage to have the bike VERY stable...so...the case saver method does NOT work for me.

again, to each their own...this is like tires, oil, etc...your mileage may vary...to each their own...etc.

and then there are those who will want to slam you just for trailering, as if it's any of THEIR business....go figure  

[Spirited-6]

nd then there are those who will want to slam you just for trailering, as if it's any of THEIR business....go figure   

DITTO ! Some time trailering is the only way to go. My son and I did so to Colorado in 06. There is NOTHING to see between Ky. and Co., 1200 miles. We parked truck, trailer, got on fresh bikes and enjoyed the great roads of Colorado for two weeks. Would love to repeat but that ship has sailed. 

[Master Blaster]

The main thing is have the bike one with the trailer/truck bed/etc.  Where you get into trouble is when the bike can move independently.  Also turn off the fuel and put up the kickstand.  You dont need to collapse the forks or shocks to do this.  As matter of fact collapsing the forks all the way can get you a leaking fork seal, I usually leave about 2 inches from bottoming out.  Be sure to look it over at every stop. 

[R J]

mine sing like banjo strings.

Put a (1) twist in the strap and that will eliminate that singing.

[RedValk]

The main thing is have the bike one with the trailer/truck bed/etc.  Where you get into trouble is when the bike can move independently.  Also turn off the fuel and put up the kickstand.  You dont need to collapse the forks or shocks to do this.  As matter of fact collapsing the forks all the way can get you a leaking fork seal, I usually leave about 2 inches from bottoming out.  Be sure to look it over at every stop. 

VERY good advice. Once, on the Valk (of course my Runes are fuel injected...so no fuel shutoff to worry about)...i forgot to turn off the petcock. I got down to Daytona...tried to fire up the bike...and gas was DRIPPING OUT OF MY EXHAUST (the little holes in the bottom of the exhaust for condensation to drip out of). gas had started flowing....and i wound up with gas in my exhaust....and the bike wouldn't start. I wound up changing the oil just in case i got gas in the oil from trying to start it. I've heard that COULD be an issue (hey, i'm no mechanic, so if that's BS...I'm just repeating an old wife's tale?)


On the kickstand...i've seen SEVERAL folks trailer with their kickstand down with HORRIBLE results. On one, the kickstand BROKE, sending the bike tumbling down on it's left side. On another, his frame got bent. i've head of the frame bent story on this board SEVERAL times for those who trailer with the stand down.

[hubcapsc]

The main thing is have the bike one with the trailer/truck bed/etc.  Where you get into trouble is when the bike can move independently.  Also turn off the fuel and put up the kickstand.  You dont need to collapse the forks or shocks to do this.  As matter of fact collapsing the forks all the way can get you a leaking fork seal, I usually leave about 2 inches from bottoming out.  Be sure to look it over at every stop. 

VERY good advice. Once, on the Valk (of course my Runes are fuel injected...so no fuel shutoff to worry about)...i forgot to turn off the petcock. I got down to Daytona...tried to fire up the bike...and gas was DRIPPING OUT OF MY EXHAUST (the little holes in the bottom of the exhaust for condensation to drip out of). gas had started flowing....and i wound up with gas in my exhaust....and the bike wouldn't start. I wound up changing the oil just in case i got gas in the oil from trying to start it. I've heard that COULD be an issue (hey, i'm no mechanic, so if that's BS...I'm just repeating an old wife's tale?)


On the kickstand...i've seen SEVERAL folks trailer with their kickstand down with HORRIBLE results. On one, the kickstand BROKE, sending the bike tumbling down on it's left side. On another, his frame got bent. i've head of the frame bent story on this board SEVERAL times for those who trailer with the stand down.

I'm sure with you on the kickstand thing, I cringe when I see that...

Don't understand how on/off/reserve would make any difference on a vacuum operated petcock that was in good health, though...

-Mike

[RedValk]

maybe one of the more mechanically inclined can answer that petcock answer? i just know i was always told to do so...and...i USUALLY do...but the ONE time on a long trip i didn't (i've forgotten when I trailered the bike with a flat tire 20-30 miles to a nearby dealer with no issues) shut off the petcock...when i got to my destination some 500 miles later...you could smell the gas. ....the bike wouldn't start...and then...we saw gas actually dirpping out of the exhaust! Not a pretty sight! I've never forgotten again...after that experience!

[hubcapsc]

we saw gas actually dirpping out of the exhaust! Not a pretty sight! I've never forgotten again...after that experience!

That's exactly what would happen if gas was getting past the petcock, I've only seen it once:



-Mike "ick"

[DIGGER]

I trailer some, 3 yrs ago from Houston to Smoky Mountains the Valk lost a front shock seal while being trailered.    When I got home I asked my dealer how was proper way and he told me to build about a 6" by 6" spacer out of boards to put under the engine with enough space to still be able to ratchet down the bike somewhat till the engine hit the boards.  That way you can ratchet the bike down very sturdy and not collapse the front shocks so much.   Worked great.

[Willow]

Don't understand how on/off/reserve would make any difference on a vacuum operated petcock that was in good health, though...

My guess would be that the bouncing would possibly put enough intermittent pressure on the diaphragm to let a drip through now and then and certainly the bouncing would wreak havoc on the expected function of the floats.  Those drips add up.

You'd have the same exposure probably for prolonged, hours prolonged, earth tremors.   

I have no experience in this matter.   

[Stanley Steamer]

I was looking through my pics and found these of the last time I had to trailer my Fat Girl........

[Special K]

Nice and thanks.  Thanks to all who responded.  I feel like I'm now educated enough to start trailering when I have to.