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Author Topic: Please help, reassembly of drive line?  (Read 1390 times)
Mr Whiskey
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*****
Posts: 2531


Tennessee


« on: February 25, 2011, 09:17:48 PM »

Howdy Gents & Ladymen! I'm a "Newby" to the land of the Dragon and I could use some tech info help.
Had this 2KI/S less than a year and the 10 to 12k mi. service just turned 19k today!!! Gotta lube those splines a.s.a.p as per Smokin Joe and all the other tech info I've been readin here.

Here's my question; Correct reassembly order?
Everything I've been reading here says the lube you use ( gonna use ts-65 & ts-70) isn't nearly as important as the proper reassembly order, and I've been on here 4 hrs or more and still cann't find a simple, straightforward discription of the the order you reinstall the drive line and rear gear. I know the 4 bolts for the pumpkin to the shaft go last but that's about it. I'd sure be appreciative if some one could lay this out for me cause I do know if I get it wrong that's the quickest way to kill this beautiful machine.
I'm not on here much (I ride ALOT more than I type) but I hope y'all might take me into the family.
Bye the bye, I'm DG, I'm in Knoxville Tn., and if I can EVER help anyone here just shout, (865) 973-6179.
So....... Thanks in advance for any help! Ride fast, be careless, and remember the LAW; See a biker on the side of the road, you STOP, period!
Peace, Mr. Whiskey.

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Peace, Whiskey.
RoadKill
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Posts: 2591


Manhattan KS


« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2011, 09:26:59 PM »

Reassembly is exact opposite of dis assembly other than the 4 bolts on drive line are only "snug". re-torque them to spec. should be the final step.
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old2soon
Member
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2011, 09:32:32 PM »

Main page-go to shop talk-on right 2/3 way down-tire change and flange service-36 steps on and off
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2011, 02:40:42 AM »

Here ya go

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/TireChangeSplineLube.htm
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lacon
Member
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Posts: 145


« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2011, 03:52:09 AM »

I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I have done mine 3 or 4 times.  I have never taken off my mufflers - just take off the chrome acorn hanger nuts & use a wedge or spacer to push the threaded stud out even with the hanger bracket.  If you have a jack that will lift the bike about a foot, there is no need to remove the rear fender half.  The trickyest part for me is getting the drive shaft back into the universal joint.  The splines have to line up exactly.  Just be patent, lay there, jiggle, twist a little, jiggle some more ..... it will pop in that last little bit without much pushing when it lines up - don't try to force it.  If you have the shocks disconnected, block up the swing arm to a more normal position - the universal binds with the shocks loose. 
Also, while you are finishing up, check your rear brake caliper - remove the shoulder bolts that the caliper floats one, clean them, & apply a little of the appropriate grease.  Gummy shoulder bolts will cause your brakes to drag.
I'm in west Knoxville, so if you get confused or need something, let me know.
Lynn
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14783


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2011, 05:39:55 AM »

OK, I hate it when people teach especially newbies that the 4 pumpkin bolts are tightend "last" last is not best.  There is a simple way to keep you out of trouble and then you can come up with your own procedure that will work as good as any other.  IF YOU DO THIS ONE THING.  The 4 bolts for the final drive must be finger tight at best right after you insert the driveshaft and pumpkin.  DONT ATTACH THE SHOCKS, DONT DO ANYTHING ELSE EXCEPT TORQUE THE AXLE (after putting the wheel on obviously).  OK, You also have to put the brake caliper plate holding pin in next to keep the plate from interfereing with axle torquing.  Now, you are ready to torque the axle.  Once torqued the alignment of the splines is automatically set.  Go ahead and torque the 4 bolts for the pumpkinn NOW dont wait until last, do it while its perfect.  Then start attaching shocks, re bolting down exhausts (if you messed with that) or anything else....fenders, bags whatever........the sequence matters not once you get the pumpkin tight.

So basically its axle nut followed by pumkin bolts and everything else doesnt matter when...totally up to you
« Last Edit: February 26, 2011, 05:57:32 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
hubcapsc
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Posts: 16783


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2011, 05:40:51 AM »


Howdy DG... lots of good advice here... I remember you and I talked about this subject that
day we met on the road... tightening the axle to get stuff lined up and then tightening the
four bolts might be the essence of the important sequence...



-Mike
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Mr Whiskey
Member
*****
Posts: 2531


Tennessee


« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2011, 06:47:19 AM »

Thanks to all!!! I don't know how I missed that in shop talk. (Might of been the John Daniel's, haha.)
Chrisj CMA, I copied your instructions and will take them to the shop. That sequence sounds the best to me.
Lynn, good to here from some one local. I'll sure holla if I run into trouble.
Mike, I'd forgotten you took that pic!!! Hows the world been treatin ya? Good I hope! I'll see ya soon man. Gonna do some ridin' with you and Joe this year for sure.
Gotta go round up the last of the parts, ( can you believe my local honda stealer had the brake pads in stock?).
Thanks again to all and hope to be meeting a bunch of ya this year, peace DG.
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Peace, Whiskey.
Oss
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Posts: 12616


The lower Hudson Valley

Ossining NY Chapter Rep VRCCDS0141


WWW
« Reply #8 on: February 26, 2011, 07:11:43 AM »

If you are in the Knoxville TN area just open the window and yell out for smokinjoe  or shine the smokinjoe light at the clouds at night (like Batman) and he will probably ride the 10 minutes over to your house and show you how to do it.

He is a good one and I bet ya he will hook y'all up properly

Just don't say that a Yankee said so   cooldude
« Last Edit: February 26, 2011, 09:05:36 AM by Oss » Logged

If you don't know where your going any road will take you there
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old2soon
Member
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #9 on: February 26, 2011, 08:43:10 AM »

Thanks to all!!! I don't know how I missed that in shop talk. (Might of been the John Daniel's, haha.)
Chrisj CMA, I copied your instructions and will take them to the shop. That sequence sounds the best to me.
Lynn, good to here from some one local. I'll sure holla if I run into trouble.
Mike, I'd forgotten you took that pic!!! Hows the world been treatin ya? Good I hope! I'll see ya soon man. Gonna do some ridin' with you and Joe this year for sure.
Gotta go round up the last of the parts, ( can you believe my local honda stealer had the brake pads in stock?).
Thanks again to all and hope to be meeting a bunch of ya this year, peace DG.
Curiosity underwhelms me-what did your stealer rip o-er i mean ove- i mean charge you for however many you bought?? Enquiring minds want to know. coolsmiley
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
Mr Whiskey
Member
*****
Posts: 2531


Tennessee


« Reply #10 on: February 28, 2011, 03:56:19 PM »

Shine the SmokinJoe light at the sky, haha, I like that!!!! Yeah Jo's one of the good ones. Only got to meet him once or twice so far but caint wait to get to ride with him. I hear he's a "peg grinder" like me, hahahaha!!

As for my local "stealer", triple disc set of pads $125, new left rear signal light assembly $75 (had to order), air filter and some crush washers for oil change, plus taxes, total right at $230.

Got the brakes done and fluid changed, oil & filter changed, couple of other minor things, then got into a cb750 project and drank too much beer. Decided to wait till sober & for some ts70 & ts65 moly to ship in before tearin down the drive line for the first time.
Should have her straight and ready to roll by next Sunday I hope.
Still tryin to decide weather or not to "slaughter the piggies"! It sounds like a mouse not a Dragon. I'll probably go for it next weekend.
Thanks again to all for the tech tips and advice, I'm learnin' alot!!! Peace, DG.
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Peace, Whiskey.
stude31
Member
*****
Posts: 1100


Topeka,ks


« Reply #11 on: February 28, 2011, 04:03:13 PM »

I ran into our Topeka,ks Honda dealer and they were going to charge me 15 bucks for each dust seal.  I could order them from honda directline http://www.directlineparts.com/store.asp?str=2  and for a price of 6 bucks a piece.  Yes honda direct had to order them too, but I didn't pay for one when I can get three of them.  I told that to the honda shop and they explained that their prices were set due to their expenses... When asked what their expense was it was coming from honda and I would pre pay for them.  I am surely not paying for convenience!!!!   grrrrrrr    Angry

I'll shop honda direct over local honda shop!
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