Valk will not start

[pawpace]

I went out to prepare the Valk for summer riding and it would not start.  I charged the battery up and lights came on but as soon as I hit the starter switch, eveything went dead.  I could hear a click down by the starter relay but didn't seem like that would cause all power to go off.  I have checked the battery connections, cleaned them but did not help.  Lights came on, hit the starter, and zap.
It really sounds like a corroded, loose connection or low battery.

Suggestions?

Thanks.

Mike

[Joe Hummer]

Sounds like you need to do the Starter Switch Repair...  http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/VSGPages/starterbutton.htm

[Daniel Meyer]

ALL the lights out? IF just the headlight quit, the starter button repair above is likely the cause.

If ALL power quit...

Check the ground cable where it attaches to the bike (subject to corrosion)

Check the wiring plug harness at the starter relay (subject to corrosion/melting)

Check the voltage at the battery. Should be 12.6 volts if charged. Shouldn't pull down much when cranking (not below 12) or the battery is bad.

Check the voltage at the other end of the cables (starter relay and ground). Corrosion inside the cable end terminals happens.

[Chrisj CMA]

Checking the starting solinoid and cleaning the switch contacts up on the handlebars is good to do, but dont overlook even easier stuff like a loose battery terminal connection or ground wire.  If all the above is good and it still wont start, then jump to you car (car NOT running) if she starts, its a bad battery

[Bobbo]

...then jump to you car (car NOT running) if she starts, its a bad battery

I've often wondered if this train of thought follows the old story of the caged monkeys and the banana.  It seems it might.  I found this article that discusses how a motorcycle shunt style regulator can be damaged by a high wattage car alternator.

http://www.shadowriders.org/faq/jumpstarting.html

Since our Valkyries don't have a shunt regulator, it won't be damaged by a running car.  A car battery should have plenty of capacity to start a bike, so a running car wouldn't be necessary.  The main reason to have a car running to jump another car is to allow the dead battery to charge a little so that the all of the starting power doesn't have to flow through the jumper cables.

[Chrisj CMA]

...then jump to you car (car NOT running) if she starts, its a bad battery

I've often wondered if this train of thought follows the old story of the caged monkeys and the banana.  It seems it might.  I found this article that discusses how a motorcycle shunt style regulator can be damaged by a high wattage car alternator.

http://www.shadowriders.org/faq/jumpstarting.html

Since our Valkyries don't have a shunt regulator, it won't be damaged by a running car.  A car battery should have plenty of capacity to start a bike, so a running car wouldn't be necessary.  The main reason to have a car running to jump another car is to allow the dead battery to charge a little so that the all of the starting power doesn't have to flow through the jumper cables.

Bobbo and his banannas.....sheesh!  Since there is no way to determine what vehicle, alternator output and such someone may try to use, its just safer advice to leave the donor vehicle "not running"  For M/C batteries if its a "bad" battery its probably not going to hold the charge from the 4Wheel alternator anyway and may have a greater than usual chance of being damaged so keep your bananas out of it and jump a bike with a car/truck anyway you wish.....I will continue to advise people to do the way I do and feel is the safer way.  Cheers

[gordonv]

then jump to you car (car NOT running) if she starts, its a bad battery

The first thing I would do before anything else, is the above.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

If everything goes out I'm thinking bad connections at the battery end or where the ground hooks to the back of the motor. Also at the starter relay the two large bolt on terminals. If all this looks good try as advised jumping off a non running  cars battery. Believe it or not but you can also push start these big ladies very easily.

[Brad]

Believe it or not but you can also push start these big ladies very easily.

My personal experience is that push starting is a futile experiment if the battery is no good.  I live at the top of a mile long down hill grade that I had to walk back up and ask my daughter to come give me a jump start.  She asked "dad why is your bike at the bottom of the hill, wouldn't it have been easier to jump it in the drive way?"  My answer "just shut up and give me a jump."

[Chiefy]

As a basic wrench, the first thing I would do is cease and desist.  Then I'd pull the plugs and look for hydrolock.  If that is not an issue, I'd start with the above advice.

[Chiefy]

Believe it or not but you can also push start these big ladies very easily.

My personal experience is that push starting is a futile experiment if the battery is no good.  I live at the top of a mile long down hill grade that I had to walk back up and ask my daughter to come give me a jump start.  She asked "dad why is your bike at the bottom of the hill, wouldn't it have been easier to jump it in the drive way?"  My answer "just shut up and give me a jump."

Girls/Women just don't get it............  ANYONE could have jumped it in the driveway.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

I didn't mean to push it to start it just to make sure no hydro. If battery is close to 12 volts you can push start them I did it three times trying to get home from hill country when my alt. died. Ended up renting u-haul in Austin because weather was getting hot and I couldn't afford to fan to start kicking on and off and killing my battery in traffic.

[MarkT]

I'm betting on bad ground on the back of the engine.  Incredibly - considering they are Jap engineers - (meaning they went to stanford & MIT and the like & get A's) - they designed the thing with a single ground cable and it's attached to ALUMINUM.  Maybe the worst metal for oxidizing at the connection.  And did nothing to prevent galvanic corrosion.  I have had this same problem several times.  Always a bad connection at an aluminum ground.  Move the wire over to the left footpeg bracket mount - it's to the steel frame, there.  And add a grounding cable between the engine & frame, and use ground connection compound.

[sugerbear]

"Move the wire over to the left footpeg bracket mount - it's to the steel frame, there.  And add a grounding cable between the engine & frame, and use ground connection compound."

couldn't you just use the connection compound on the battery cable, and save another cable to have a problem with?

[Bobbo]

"Move the wire over to the left footpeg bracket mount - it's to the steel frame, there.  And add a grounding cable between the engine & frame, and use ground connection compound."

couldn't you just use the connection compound on the battery cable, and save another cable to have a problem with?

 

[pawpace]

Thanks for all the replies.  I charged the battery and it checks out at 12.5V.  I put it back in and tried to start but when I do, shuts off everything.  I hook up my car battery and the Valk starts right up.  Would a dead cell or short in the plates of the battery do this?

I failed to mention that it clicks and shuts off when trying to start on the mc battery alone.  I have checked all connections but still need to check the ground as the last post stated.

Mike

[Promagnaman]

get a new battery

[Brad]

get a new battery

Yep new battery will take care of it.

[R J]

 I hook up my car battery and the Valk starts right up.    

Okay, now, go get a new battery.   If it will start off the car boost, your battery is toast.

When ya get it installed and charged properly, check all your cables for corrosion, including this plug in under the right side cover inside the rubber boot.



and if it does order this unit from Honda.  You have to move the red wire to the current vacant slot.  Use a pic to unhook the wire end from the plastic. then just push it in the open slot, it should click , (lock in).