For trailer pullers

[Chrisj CMA]

I have a standard coupler on my trailer.  It has served fine for a few years now.  Only once did I try to lean too far for the amount of swivel the ball and coupler would allow, but that once was alarming.  Since then I have learned to slow it down and be more conservative when pulling but there is another issue.

What happens if you drop the bike or it gets knocked over?  Its only gonna swivel 40° of a possible need of 360° then somethings going to bend.  If its the frame, youre toast.

So, I ordered this...I was going to try to fab this up myself, but for the time it would take and the trouble...$150 seems fair, plus this has some bearings in it to make it turn smoothly.

I will update after its on and I test ride it, but Cheaha is coming up (on the way there is when I had the binding issue) so Im gonna be ready

http://www.mchitch.com/Trailer_Coupler_Swivel_Adpater_2_inch.htm

[R J]

It will work, BUT, the coupler will always be riding in a slanted layover.

In other words, it will tilt one way or the other and not stay upright.

I pulled one for awhile years ago and then went back to a straight one.

About the only thing you will twist with a straight coupler would be the tongue.    If it twists the frame, the trailer isn't worth the metal it is built out of.

If it twists a frame that easy, it won't be on the back of any of my units.

[Jeff K]

I saw a guy on a Goldwing go down with a trailer on. He twisted the tongue of the trailer so bad we couldn't get him back on the raod.
My trailer as an odd setup, it's similar to the Bushtec, it is a ball joint connection with a bearing swivel, 360 movement. I finally wore it out and had to rebuild it this year.
I leave it bolted to the receiver hitch and just pull the pin and slide the works out of the receiver to disconnect.
I love the hitch, but have no idea who made it. It's on a Hannigan trailer, and they swear it's not theirs.
I beefed it up this time it should out last me.


 

[stormrider]

Remember that curve all too well. You and the Queen had that seat sucked up pretty tight.

[Chrisj CMA]

Remember that curve all too well. You and the Queen had that seat sucked up pretty tight.

So does Judy.........lol.........its not fun when you have to complete the turn using the front brake, counting on front end dive and hard right turn with each pump of the brake, but it worked, we didnt cross the line (much) sorry Joe, I think one wheel of the tailer may have.

[Chrisj CMA]

I saw a guy on a Goldwing go down with a trailer on. He twisted the tongue of the trailer so bad we couldn't get him back on the raod.
My trailer as an odd setup, it's similar to the Bushtec, it is a ball joint connection with a bearing swivel, 360 movement. I finally wore it out and had to rebuild it this year.
I leave it bolted to the receiver hitch and just pull the pin and slide the works out of the receiver to disconnect.
I love the hitch, but have no idea who made it. It's on a Hannigan trailer, and they swear it's not theirs.
I beefed it up this time it should out last me.


 

That looks good Jeff, Id opt for something like that too, couldnt find anything aftermarket except the one I posted.  Im thinking it has to be an improvemnt in handling, plus the extra length may help a little wee bit on backing control (every little bit helps)

[Jeff K]

I saw a guy on a Goldwing go down with a trailer on. He twisted the tongue of the trailer so bad we couldn't get him back on the raod.
My trailer as an odd setup, it's similar to the Bushtec, it is a ball joint connection with a bearing swivel, 360 movement. I finally wore it out and had to rebuild it this year.
I leave it bolted to the receiver hitch and just pull the pin and slide the works out of the receiver to disconnect.
I love the hitch, but have no idea who made it. It's on a Hannigan trailer, and they swear it's not theirs.
I beefed it up this time it should out last me.


 

That looks good Jeff, Id opt for something like that too, couldnt find anything aftermarket except the one I posted.  Im thinking it has to be an improvemnt in handling, plus the extra length may help a little wee bit on backing control (every little bit helps)

The rod end swivels 360 degrees, it is bushed in the tongue. I added a better rod end with more range of motion. When I had my "low speed get off" in Colorado the trailer didn't have any damage. I just stood the bike back up and rode off.

[TJ]

Chris, you could also change the ball to a long shaft ball, which will give you more clearance...

[Chrisj CMA]

Chris, you could also change the ball to a long shaft ball, which will give you more clearance...

Thats a very good point TJ, never considered there were different length shafts for them balls.......sheesh one could get in trouble with these terms if not careful

[Chrisj CMA]

OK, the install went great, except as you will see, the pigtail is now too short.  UG!  Well nothing a little wire,solder, heat shrink and tape wont fix.  I like it, well made product.

Hope the pics load
http://s920.photobucket.com/albums/ad50/chrisj357/swivel%20hitch/?albumview=slideshow

[Crazyhorse]

Looks good Chris. I like the swivel type hitch I have a bushtec trailer and love it.

[Mildew]

I probably have 20k miles on this straight one and it rides like it belongs there

[Chrisj CMA]

I probably have 20k miles on this straight one and it rides like it belongs there

Well yeah, mine pulled straight great too.....its the twisties that get me, I hate feeling the coupler hit the hitch and say nope, you aint leaning any more.........shouldnt happen now!

[Mildew]

I had that happen once but I was riding like I was on a crotch rocket. lol
Your right, it's not a good feeling when that things tells you thats far enough

[Chrisj CMA]

Ok, I cut the pigtail, added 7" of wire color by color heat shrinked it taped it with high voltage tape....my wifes son calls it peckerhead tape......LOL  it worked great, and all the lights still work, AMAZING!

[Chrisj CMA]

Went for a short test ride.  I love the change.  Feels even more like the trailer is NOT there and I can lean as much as I need to or want to now.  The extra few inches does make it a tiny bit easier to back (its a little harder to get it jackknifed now).  Oh, and RJ, the couple stays perfectly straight while riding perfectly straight, no problem.  Theres no reason to ever go back to a straight/solid tongue...I recommend this for anyone with a standard coupler.

[Walküre]

Chris - I'm guessing by the graphic, that it has bearings inside the tube, that the bolt goes through, ending with the lock washer and nut? the bolt looks like it's welded to the rear piece, going through the tube on the other piece. I am again guessing, that there's a "thrust bearing" between the two halves, for the rotation?

If so, can you see the thrust bearing? Is it a needle bearing with needles exposed, or shielded?

I have most of the pieces, pre-made, off some other equipment that I "retired". The thrust bearing is about the only thing I don't have, readily available, but I'm sure Motion Industries has SOMEthing that would work, just fine. I agree, if I didn't have anything towards making one, no lathe, welder, etc, then it wouldn't be feasible for the $150, but I think I can put one together for basically the cost of the thrust bearing...

a really good close-up pic of things, would be pretty cool...

R

[Chrisj CMA]

Walkure...there isint much you can see, it is mostly contained.  If you go back up to my original post and click on that link, wait for the animation, it shows everything that can be seen.  One has to assume the bearings are behind that big nut under the main portion.  Good luck

[Walküre]

Walkure...there isint much you can see, it is mostly contained.  If you go back up to my original post and click on that link, wait for the animation, it shows everything that can be seen.  One has to assume the bearings are behind that big nut under the main portion.  Good luck

Here's that animation, but larger:  http://www.mchitch.com/2_1-2_Swivel_Adapter.swf

What I can't see, is what holds the two halves apart. Something has to keep the two "flats" in the center, from coming into contact, and stopping it from swiveling, when the nut is tightened. It's either with a bearing between the halves, or the bolt is "captured" in the front half, either with a shoulder or other machining, and welded with a small space between the halves, into the back half. But, that would seem to leave the halves to "wobble" a bit. Is there any wobble? And can you push the two halves together?

My guess is that the bolt is captured, totally in the front half, supported by bearings, and the rear is just welded with a collar or similar, to hold the bolt into the back half. Just seems that although that wouldn't necessarily create wobble, it would also be the weakest spot.

Still trying to get my head around it...

R

[Chrisj CMA]

Well you cannot see much of anything inbetween the two halves.  No, it cannot be pushed together, and there is no slop.  It looks like there is an inner tube and the outer tube you see under the main part.  The inner must be secured from pulling out by how the bearings are clipped in.  You can see the inner tube turning with the small end as it swivels (like 1/16 of an inch of it inbetween teh two halves).  I bet I confused you

[Walküre]

I bet I confused you

Nope, not at all...think I have it down. Now, to the parts drawers...    

Thanks a bunch!!