upjeeper
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« on: March 20, 2011, 04:20:48 PM » |
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do i need to rear the carb assembly out of the bike to fix a stuck valve? thanks
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BonS
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« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2011, 05:22:16 PM » |
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I've had luck in the past with tapping on the carb body with a screwdriver handle. Good luck!
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Fla. Jim
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« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2011, 11:24:33 PM » |
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If it is on a runable bike you can get it up to speed on an open "empty" highway. Close the petcock, go till the bike runs out of gas and then open the petcock while still going at a fair clip in gear. This causes the floats to drop down and open completlym the then incoming gas "might" flush away a grain of dirt that is not allowing the float to work correctly. I do this occasionaly on mine just to keep everything clean. Learned this trick on another multi carb Honda a 82 CB900c that was running rough. Was told to me by a Honda mechanic who said this was the first thing they did on all the bikes that came running rough. Then if that did not work they went into the carbs. Might try it a couple of times has worked well for me.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #3 on: March 21, 2011, 07:28:46 AM » |
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It's easy enough to drop a fuel float bowl from a carburetor for inspection.
You will not be able to remove a single carburetor from the assembly without first removing the whole carburetor (all six) bank from the motor.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Bobbo
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« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2011, 07:31:23 AM » |
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If it is on a runable bike you can get it up to speed on an open "empty" highway. Close the petcock, go till the bike runs out of gas and then open the petcock while still going at a fair clip in gear. This causes the floats to drop down and open completlym the then incoming gas "might" flush away a grain of dirt that is not allowing the float to work correctly. I do this occasionaly on mine just to keep everything clean. Learned this trick on another multi carb Honda a 82 CB900c that was running rough. Was told to me by a Honda mechanic who said this was the first thing they did on all the bikes that came running rough. Then if that did not work they went into the carbs. Might try it a couple of times has worked well for me.
Wouldn't it be easier to just open the carb bowl drains every once in a while?
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upjeeper
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« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2011, 08:14:54 AM » |
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I guess my original question was how easy is it to remove the bowls and get to the carbs without removing the whole carb assembly from the bike? Is it something I can do while on the engine?
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9Ball
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« Reply #6 on: March 21, 2011, 08:27:01 AM » |
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having done this a few times and helping friends perform the carb removal, the hardest part is re-installing the airbox.
It really is a lot better to remove the entire carb ass'y and work on it on the bench then to contort yourself by avoiding the removal. Besides, if your intent is to clean everything thoroughly, then I recommed removing the carbs so you can really spray and carefully toothbrush the deposits. It really is not mechanically difficult and the Honda shop manual provides all the details for removal and installation. Take your time, label stuff or take pictures as you go, and ask questions as needed.
Do it right the first time, replace all the rubber o-rings and hoses, and you will not have to re-do this anytime soon.
good luck
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000
1999 Standard 2007 Rocket 3 2005 VTX 1300S
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John U.
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« Reply #7 on: March 21, 2011, 08:13:58 PM » |
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Having replaced slow jets the other way, by tying up one side of the carb bank then the other, I agree with JRHorton. It's a pain in the back, neck and ass, even with the bike on a lift. You still have to remove the airbox anyway. I agree on the hose/O-ring replacement as well, our bikes are getting old enough for the rubber parts to neeed replacement. Had I done that 3 years ago I wouldn't be planning to dig into it again next winter.
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Fla. Jim
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« Reply #8 on: March 21, 2011, 10:17:00 PM » |
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If it is on a runable bike you can get it up to speed on an open "empty" highway. Close the petcock, go till the bike runs out of gas and then open the petcock while still going at a fair clip in gear. This causes the floats to drop down and open completlym the then incoming gas "might" flush away a grain of dirt that is not allowing the float to work correctly. I do this occasionaly on mine just to keep everything clean. Learned this trick on another multi carb Honda a 82 CB900c that was running rough. Was told to me by a Honda mechanic who said this was the first thing they did on all the bikes that came running rough. Then if that did not work they went into the carbs. Might try it a couple of times has worked well for me.
Wouldn't it be easier to just open the carb bowl drains every once in a while? You would not get the same forced inrush of cleaning gas. That would only remove what was in the bowel and probably not force the grit from under the needle orfice. Plus it's another excuse to go for a ride......At speed!
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Bobbo
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« Reply #9 on: March 22, 2011, 07:51:41 AM » |
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If it is on a runable bike you can get it up to speed on an open "empty" highway. Close the petcock, go till the bike runs out of gas and then open the petcock while still going at a fair clip in gear. This causes the floats to drop down and open completlym the then incoming gas "might" flush away a grain of dirt that is not allowing the float to work correctly. I do this occasionaly on mine just to keep everything clean. Learned this trick on another multi carb Honda a 82 CB900c that was running rough. Was told to me by a Honda mechanic who said this was the first thing they did on all the bikes that came running rough. Then if that did not work they went into the carbs. Might try it a couple of times has worked well for me.
Wouldn't it be easier to just open the carb bowl drains every once in a while? You would not get the same forced inrush of cleaning gas. That would only remove what was in the bowel and probably not force the grit from under the needle orfice. Plus it's another excuse to go for a ride......At speed! Forced inrush of gas? What is doing the forcing? The gas is gravity fed, and the pressure on the float needle is the same whether the engine is running or not. Another concern is that you may be running under a load while starving your carbs of fuel, which results in a lean condition. If your engine dies quickly from lack of gas, it probably won't hurt it, but if gets just enough to keep it running, you can do some serious damage.
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Fla. Jim
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« Reply #10 on: March 25, 2011, 05:51:47 PM » |
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If it is on a runable bike you can get it up to speed on an open "empty" highway. Close the petcock, go till the bike runs out of gas and then open the petcock while still going at a fair clip in gear. This causes the floats to drop down and open completlym the then incoming gas "might" flush away a grain of dirt that is not allowing the float to work correctly. I do this occasionaly on mine just to keep everything clean. Learned this trick on another multi carb Honda a 82 CB900c that was running rough. Was told to me by a Honda mechanic who said this was the first thing they did on all the bikes that came running rough. Then if that did not work they went into the carbs. Might try it a couple of times has worked well for me.
Wouldn't it be easier to just open the carb bowl drains every once in a while? You would not get the same forced inrush of cleaning gas. That would only remove what was in the bowel and probably not force the grit from under the needle orfice. Plus it's another excuse to go for a ride......At speed! Forced inrush of gas? What is doing the forcing? The gas is gravity fed, and the pressure on the float needle is the same whether the engine is running or not. Another concern is that you may be running under a load while starving your carbs of fuel, which results in a lean condition. If your engine dies quickly from lack of gas, it probably won't hurt it, but if gets just enough to keep it running, you can do some serious damage.Vacuum, created by pistons moving very fast, creating the pressure differential, to pull the gas in, is not gravity fed. Been doing it on two different Valks for the past 13 years at over 156k and my 900c over 50k for a 5 year period ..... No problems to report...... Empirical reasoning explained. Plus it's just fun to feel the carbs come back online 2 at a time with the throttle locked wide open as they receive the fuel. Kind of like a V-boost on a Max. You do not have to try it, no one will force you. But I know it works. Same as I know running a rear tire on the front works. Been there got the T-craps. BoBo 
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« Last Edit: March 25, 2011, 05:58:07 PM by Fla. Jim »
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Bobbo
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« Reply #11 on: March 26, 2011, 07:35:37 AM » |
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Vacuum, created by pistons moving very fast, creating the pressure differential, to pull the gas in, is not gravity fed. Been doing it on two different Valks for the past 13 years at over 156k and my 900c over 50k for a 5 year period ..... No problems to report...... Empirical reasoning explained. Plus it's just fun to feel the carbs come back online 2 at a time with the throttle locked wide open as they receive the fuel. Kind of like a V-boost on a Max. You do not have to try it, no one will force you. But I know it works. Same as I know running a rear tire on the front works. Been there got the T-craps. BoBo  Your T-Shirt must read "I Flunked Carburetor Basics"Carburetor float bowls are vented so that atmospheric pressure can push the gas through the fuel circuit and into the venturi. See diagram:  There is no vacuum pulling the gas through the needle valve, only the pressure generated by the weight of the gas (gravity feed). Your "Empirical reasoning" is more anecdotal than scientific. If it makes you feel better to do this, it's your bike, and you can do as you wish.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #12 on: March 26, 2011, 08:17:20 AM » |
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Hey, Upjeeper:
Did you get that float bowl off yet?
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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upjeeper
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« Reply #13 on: March 26, 2011, 10:02:55 AM » |
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Hey, Upjeeper:
Did you get that float bowl off yet?
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not yet, it was freaking cold here in WI this past week. plus I've been distracted with other projects 1. picked up a BBQ smoker 2. building a wet bar in my basement  but i know if i don't get it ready i'm going to be upset at myself the first nice day we finally have
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Chiefy
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« Reply #14 on: March 27, 2011, 06:19:31 PM » |
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Hey, Upjeeper:
Did you get that float bowl off yet?
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not yet, it was freaking cold here in WI this past week. plus I've been distracted with other projects 1. picked up a BBQ smoker 2. building a wet bar in my basement  but i know if i don't get it ready i'm going to be upset at myself the first nice day we finally have What type/brand smoker? I had a couple of water smokers, but now I've gone back to using my Weber kettle with the "Smokenator" gadget.
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 1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles
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upjeeper
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« Reply #15 on: March 28, 2011, 08:34:08 PM » |
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picked up a brinkmann offset unit from craigslist for $25. thought i got a heck of a deal, then the guy who sits next to me told me I needed a better thermometer ($60), then a natural gas conversion unit because wood takes too much maintenance to maintain the temperature (I have a problem with remembering to check stuff like that), another $80 crap, this is going to be another $$$ hobby...
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Bobbo
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« Reply #16 on: March 29, 2011, 07:07:37 AM » |
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I don't know if this would help, but a company near me makes a BBQ pit heat control for charcoal and wood burners. PitMasterIQ
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Chiefy
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« Reply #17 on: March 29, 2011, 01:47:19 PM » |
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picked up a brinkmann offset unit from craigslist for $25. thought i got a heck of a deal, then the guy who sits next to me told me I needed a better thermometer ($60), then a natural gas conversion unit because wood takes too much maintenance to maintain the temperature (I have a problem with remembering to check stuff like that), another $80 crap, this is going to be another $$$ hobby...
Smoking over wood isn't for those who want to set it and forget it...... A Brinkman offset for $25.00 is a good deal, BTW
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 1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles
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tybme
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Posts: 335
1999 Valkyrie I/S
Topeka KS
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« Reply #18 on: March 30, 2011, 11:28:47 AM » |
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picked up a brinkmann offset unit from craigslist for $25. thought i got a heck of a deal, then the guy who sits next to me told me I needed a better thermometer ($60), then a natural gas conversion unit because wood takes too much maintenance to maintain the temperature (I have a problem with remembering to check stuff like that), another $80 crap, this is going to be another $$$ hobby...
Go electric - traditionalist hate them - but man it's so easy - set it and forget it. I have a cookshack and a masterbuilt - either are great machines that make a wonderful product and work well in the cold. (it's been a few years since I lived in Wisc. but seems to meI remmber it getting cold there.) 
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« Last Edit: March 30, 2011, 11:31:51 AM by tybme »
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways. totally worn out, shouting, "Holy ****... What a Ride!" 
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PhredValk
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« Reply #19 on: March 31, 2011, 11:10:42 AM » |
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Meat, beer, bikes. The perfect spring! Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional. VRCCDS0237
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GOOSE
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Posts: 704
D.S. #: 1643
Southwest Virginia
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« Reply #20 on: March 31, 2011, 06:39:27 PM » |
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upjeeper.......by the way.....did you ever get the stuck float valve fixed inbetween the smoker grills?
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upjeeper
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« Reply #21 on: March 31, 2011, 07:07:45 PM » |
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not yet. battery crapped out on me, just getting the new one in place tonight one thing after another
fortunately my new Kury mirrors and replacement clutch cylinder showed up today. looks like saturday is maintenance day!!!
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