ANY TIPS ON REPLACING AIR FILTER?

[BIG--T]

Hi, I'm going to replace my air filter and know I have to pull the tank. Just wonder if there are any short cuts, tips or something I need to do while I'm in there. I  have put a 10" piece of 3/4" pvc, notched it and used it as a prop at he back of the tank assuming it rotates on some round bushings up front not having to pull the tank. I don't know the angle of the filter and not sure it would even work.

If there is an easy way I'm always trying to find it! 

Thanks in advance for any help

[SCain]

Its always easier if the tank is almost empty, place a rag under the petcock to catch any gas that drips when you remove the fuel line. Remove both front and rear tank bolts, reach under the rear of the tank and remove the vent line and lift it off, thats about it. If its an Interstate you'll have to disconnect the sending unit.

[Hoser]

It's easy enough to remove it completly,remove front and rear bolts,  just disconnect the fuel line(shut off petcock first), unplug vent tube from tank, lift the back slightly and slide it back to clear the front from the mounts.  Reverse to install. It is easiest with it near empty.  Oh, and replace the wire clamp with a small screw type. T needs to be clear off to replace the air filter.    Hoser

[Joe Hummer]

The filter is flat on top of the motor...and there are screws all around the cover that you will have to remove...you will have to remove the tank completely to get to it...at least in my opinion.  Removing the tank isn't that bad.  I usually turn the petcock off and let the motor run for a few minutes to run some of the gas out of the fuel line.  Then remove the vent line at the back of the tank, remove the vacuum line at the back of the petcock and remove the fuel line off the petcock.  Then disconnect the fuel sending unit if an IS.  After that...it is good.  Have a good place to set the tank down once you have it off.  I place it on a towel on the ground out of the way.  After you remove the tank, check the petcock.  it should not drip.  If it does drip, replace the insides as soon as possible.  There is a rebuild kit available at Direct Line Parts.  

Joe

[X Ring]

You have to turn off and disconnect the petcock, unbolt the fuel tank and remove it.  Then remove the screws from the top of the air box to remove/replace the air filter.  There are no shortcuts.

Here's the instructions:  

Fuel Tank:  http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/carltank.htm

Air Filter:  http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/carlairfilter.htm

Marty

[BIG--T]

Thanks ya'll for all the help, sounds easy enough! I just wonder whether it would be worth it to do the desmog and pair valve?

[GOOSE]

XRAY.......ONCE YOU TAKE THE TANK OFF AND ARE LOOKING AT THE AIR FILTER COVER, YOU WILL SEE PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS ALONG THE OUTER PERIMETER OF THE LID.  ALL OF THE SCREWS ARE HELD CAPTIVE IN THE LID (THEY STAY IN THE LID WHEN YOU REMOVE THE LID.) EXCEPT THE TWO REAR SCREWS. THESE TWO SCREWS NEED TO BE REMOVED.

[BIG--T]

XRAY.......ONCE YOU TAKE THE TANK OFF AND ARE LOOKING AT THE AIR FILTER COVER, YOU WILL SEE PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS ALONG THE OUTER PERIMETER OF THE LID.  ALL OF THE SCREWS ARE HELD CAPTIVE IN THE LID (THEY STAY IN THE LID WHEN YOU REMOVE THE LID.) EXCEPT THE TWO REAR SCREWS. THESE TWO SCREWS NEED TO BE REMOVED.

Thanks, I'm glad you told me- just the 2 rear

[fudgie]

Its easy to remove, but I got a pingel. Less then 10 min for me, including finding the tools. I replaced my front bolt with a phillips head screw. Make it alot easier. Also got a longer vent line. Becareful of the filter gasket. Can be a bitch to get back on unless you are doing the K&N, then I left mine out.

[LAnthony]

Remember to take the chrome cover off the petcock, these are fairly easy to break.  There is a big phillips screw in the hole in the center of the part you turn the petcock from on/off/reserve and the cover just swings away.  The actual petcock stays attached to the tank when you remove it.

[Printer Mike]

Pay attention to the proper orientation(air direction). Seems like I got confused when I changed mine. I like to write the date and mileage on the airbox w/ a silver sharpie.

[John U.]

The desmog requires removing the lower part of the airbox. The hose clamps need to be loosened, the intake hoses stay with the airbox. If you're thinking of desmogging, filter replacement time is as good a time as any. The difficult part is reattaching the airbox hoses. Get a small flashlight and an inspection mirror. The back of the hoses can be tough to get on right.

Also, check where the chrome intake tubes meet the head. As the O-rings deteriorate you will get brown leakage there, which means time for new O-rings. That can be done anytime, but as long as you've got a wrench in your hand...

BTW, the tank will sit steady on it's nose if space is a problem, have an old towel to sit it on.

[hubcapsc]

BTW, the tank will sit steady on it's nose if space is a problem, have an old towel to sit it on.

I usually set the tank on its nose... but... sometimes, depending on how you tilt the tank when taking it off
I guess, gas will start siphoning out and end up squirting out of the nozzle where the vacuum line
hooks on. I thought it was pretty cool the first time... took the tank off right before dark, set it aside
(I work outside) and came back the next morning... the temp had gone below freezing that night, and
the fountain of gas coming out of the vacuum nozzle was frozen... it was really cool... but most people
work inside, it would be real uncool if gas started coming out of your tank while you weren't
paying attention inside your house or garage... 

-Mike

[Chiefy]

Hi, I'm going to replace my air filter and know I have to pull the tank. Just wonder if there are any short cuts, tips or something I need to do while I'm in there. I  have put a 10" piece of 3/4" pvc, notched it and used it as a prop at he back of the tank assuming it rotates on some round bushings up front not having to pull the tank. I don't know the angle of the filter and not sure it would even work.

If there is an easy way I'm always trying to find it! 

Thanks in advance for any help

I can't see any reason to not lift the tank off once you get it to the point where you were going to prop it up.  Physics dictates that it's going to want to be on the floor.  So you may as well set it down gently instead of having it jump 3 feet.

As someone else mentioned, don't forget to undo the petcock on/off/reserve lever.

Work slow, if you're like me, you'll read the instructions 10 times, and forget to undo a Vacuum or gas line.  Lifting the tank off slow will prevent you from tearing something loose.  And make sure the towel/blanket/cardboard you're going to set the tank on is ready before you lift the tank out 

[BIG--T]

BTW, the tank will sit steady on it's nose if space is a problem, have an old towel to sit it on.

I usually set the tank on its nose... but... sometimes, depending on how you tilt the tank when taking it off
I guess, gas will start siphoning out and end up squirting out of the nozzle where the vacuum line
hooks on. I thought it was pretty cool the first time... took the tank off right before dark, set it aside
(I work outside) and came back the next morning... the temp had gone below freezing that night, and
the fountain of gas coming out of the vacuum nozzle was frozen... it was really cool... but most people
work inside, it would be real uncool if gas started coming out of your tank while you weren't
paying attention inside your house or garage... 

-Mike

Hey Mike,, I believe I'd be changing gas stations! or putting a little alcohol in it!  Thanks for the help

[BIG--T]

Thanks guys for all the help