Did something with a NEW I/S sender.

[John Schmidt]

In OEM configuration, using my digital meter it read close to the 90 ohms=empty, 0 ohms=full. Just for the heck of it, at the bottom of the sender where the two wires are attached on the white plastic piece, I reversed the wires. I then put it back in the vise to hold it horizontal, attached the digital meter again and moved the float arm through its full range as before. This time, it read almost the reverse; 4.2 ohms=empty, above 90 ohms=full. Although the arm won't go all the way to the top of the sweep when installed, I raised it to the upper limit and it actually read (varied) between 98 and about 101 ohms. I couldn't hold it absolutely steady so the reading did vary slightly. To help overcome the unsteady hand of an "oldie but goodie", I reversed the sender in the vise....turning it upside down and clamping it so it was stable. This time, when the float dropped to the "full" position(remember it's upside down now), it stabilized at 97.2 ohms for "full." 

With the wires reversed now, it appears the sender will now read approximately 4.2 ohms=empty(instead of 90), 97.2 ohms=full(instead of 0). The latter figure for "full" I'm certain will be slightly less since the float arm shouldn't go that high when full. There are a number of gauges out there that will take a 0-90(empty-full) sender, sure would like to find something different for the bike.

[John U.]

Sounds like an elegant solution to the problem John. Let us know if it works. Nothing like a little enginuity.

[X Ring]

There are also fuel gauges that will work with the way Honda wired the sender.

Marty

[John Schmidt]

There are also fuel gauges that will work with the way Honda wired the sender.

Marty

I know Marty, I've been using an Autometer C-2 unit for about 7 years with no problem. Just getting tired of looking at it.