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Author Topic: Trashed rear unit  (Read 2376 times)
papasan
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« on: March 26, 2011, 05:19:55 PM »

 tickedoff  took the Valk to Honda dealer for 2 new tires.  Asked both service manager and mechanic if they lube the splines, etc.  Both said it's part of normal tire change service.  When they disassembled the rear unit, the splines were worn and chipped, and the inside totally dry and rusty.  It was a mess!  Lucky I wasn't on a trip and had it fail.  Fortunately, service manager has a rear unit that was taken off new bike years back to make a trike.  Said it was from a 97 Goldwing and should fit.  Still big bucks.  Last time I put on tires (again, a Honda dealer) I asked about lubing the splines.  "Always do" was the response.  It's been a long time back in a different city, and I have to dig up the receipt if I still have it.  Don't know if I have any recourse, but this service manager told me it was worth pursuing.  Pretty bad when it's a dealer that screws you over, but then I'm not the first, am I?

Papasan
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Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005
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« Reply #1 on: March 26, 2011, 05:26:12 PM »

tickedoff  took the Valk to Honda dealer for 2 new tires.  Asked both service manager and mechanic if they lube the splines, etc.  Both said it's part of normal tire change service.  When they disassembled the rear unit, the splines were worn and chipped, and the inside totally dry and rusty.  It was a mess!  Lucky I wasn't on a trip and had it fail.  Fortunately, service manager has a rear unit that was taken off new bike years back to make a trike.  Said it was from a 97 Goldwing and should fit.  Still big bucks.  Last time I put on tires (again, a Honda dealer) I asked about lubing the splines.  "Always do" was the response.  It's been a long time back in a different city, and I have to dig up the receipt if I still have it.  Don't know if I have any recourse, but this service manager told me it was worth pursuing.  Pretty bad when it's a dealer that screws you over, but then I'm not the first, am I?

Papasan
Goldwing final drive...Good luck with that ...When you get a Valkyrie final drive buy yourself a jack and learn to do it yourself that way you know it was done.Just a observation but maybe you should stop letting this dude work on your bike  cooldude
« Last Edit: March 26, 2011, 07:00:13 PM by Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005 » Logged



I've seen alot of people that thought they were cool , but then again Lord I've seen alot of fools.
Tropic traveler
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Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.

Silver Springs, Florida


« Reply #2 on: March 26, 2011, 05:45:10 PM »

Are you sure you need a whole new rear unit? Or maybe just a final drive hub?
Sounds like the dealer may just have had a final drive unit he wanted to sell & you happened along.  Shocked
Not like that hasn't happened before.
Ditto on what Joe said as well.  Cool
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wizard -vrccds#125
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Hitchcock Tx.


« Reply #3 on: March 26, 2011, 06:13:49 PM »

The wing final drive has a different bolt pattern  onto the swing arm ! Good luck with that!
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X Ring
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« Reply #4 on: March 26, 2011, 06:16:42 PM »

The wing final drive has a different bolt pattern  onto the swing arm ! Good luck with that!

Damn Wiz!!! You beat me to it.

Marty
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papasan
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« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2011, 06:47:10 PM »

Thanks for the heads up on bolt pattern.  Certainly need the drive hub and related splines, bearings.  Service manager wasn't sure if his unit would fit.  Damage was done at a dealer in Texas, not here in Albuquerque.  Can't remember yet if El Paso or Midland - those Elite III's lasted a long time.  Priced out the drive hub and related bits and it still tops $500.  Most things I do myself, guess I'll add this to the list.    Sad
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lee
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Northeast Tennessee


« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2011, 06:51:41 PM »

The wing final drive has a different bolt pattern  onto the swing arm ! Good luck with that!

However every single INTERNAL part in the wing drive is the same as the valk drive.  So if you want
to rebuild to your housing you can.  At most all you may have to buy is a set of shims.
If the drive flange is with the wing drive, use it also, its the same as the valk.
Pinion cup and u-joint are also the same.  
Drive shaft is different so I have heard.
« Last Edit: March 26, 2011, 07:04:07 PM by lee » Logged

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C. Drewry
old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #7 on: March 26, 2011, 06:55:26 PM »

Now you have first hand experience on why we call them STEALERS. When i opened mine up and saw how good it looked-well it's been a long time since i exhaled that much.  coolsmiley And yes a lot of us have been burned. I really feel your pain-but try not to let it happen again. crazy2 RIDE SAFE.
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art
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Grants Pass,Or

Grants Pass,Or


« Reply #8 on: March 26, 2011, 07:54:29 PM »

If you can find the receipt I would raise hell with honda .The more you complain the better.I have gotten free parts that way
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #9 on: March 26, 2011, 08:17:37 PM »

Any idea how many miles it's been since that rear end was removed for a tire change. I pull mine down at least every 10k miles, whether I need a tire or not. If you wait until you need new rubber and get upwards of 18k or more on that back tire, you're asking for trouble. I have a car tire with about 23k on it and have had the rear end apart twice in that time. It's cheap insurance for less than a day's work.
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papasan
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« Reply #10 on: March 26, 2011, 08:46:54 PM »

Thanks, Lee, regarding the internal parts being the same as Goldwing.   :cooldude:Will make sure the mechanic is aware of that Monday a.m.  Receipt long-since shredded, but service manager recommended that I take it up the chain.  Long period between teardown probably got me to this point.  The tires lasted about 20-21,000 miles with no teardowns between sets....lots of time for bad things to happen in case of poor service.  Given what's happened, it would have been cheaper to buy tires that only last 10K......or get off my butt and service my own darn bike! uglystupid2
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3fan4life
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Moneta, VA


« Reply #11 on: March 26, 2011, 09:17:39 PM »

The tires lasted about 20-21,000 miles

WOW!!!!! 

I do well to get 10k out of an E3 on the rear.

Got as little as 6k out of Avon.

Maybe I need to ease up on the throttle a little................ NAAH!  Evil
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SCain
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Rio Rancho, NM


« Reply #12 on: March 27, 2011, 04:53:38 AM »

Like Lee said above, the internals will interchange. Rick over at the Accessory Pit has a machine shop that can press out the large bearing from the ring gear and switch things over. If you can get that wing final drive for cheap it might be worth looking into. Oh ya, try to get the drive flange for that wing diff.
I asume you are dealing with R&S Honda, they used to do trikes a long time ago.
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Steve
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North Dakota


« Reply #13 on: March 27, 2011, 05:50:15 AM »

I thought the GW would bolt right up?  One hole does not line up, but three do?  Just use the three?

MP
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hubcapsc
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South Carolina


« Reply #14 on: March 27, 2011, 06:13:46 AM »


I wish he'd work harder at getting good spline close-ups, but Pinwall has a final drive that looks
quite usable for $250...



He sent me a clear close up of the splines first on the one I ended up buying a few years ago...

I think his business has grown a lot, it's not Rod that answers the phone anymore, but I think besides
the awkwardness of a bigger operation, the customer service is still good...

-Mike
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fudgie
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« Reply #15 on: March 27, 2011, 08:03:22 AM »


I wish he'd work harder at getting good spline close-ups, but Pinwall has a final drive that looks
quite usable for $250...



He sent me a clear close up of the splines first on the one I ended up buying a few years ago...

I think his business has grown a lot, it's not Rod that answers the phone anymore, but I think besides
the awkwardness of a bigger operation, the customer service is still good...

-Mike

Is that for a Valk? The part looks kinda funny up near the '4 bolts'.  ???
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RainMaker
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« Reply #16 on: March 27, 2011, 08:20:46 AM »

tickedoff  took the Valk to Honda dealer for 2 new tires.  Asked both service manager and mechanic if they lube the splines, etc.  Both said it's part of normal tire change service.  When they disassembled the rear unit, the splines were worn and chipped, and the inside totally dry and rusty.  It was a mess!  Lucky I wasn't on a trip and had it fail.  Fortunately, service manager has a rear unit that was taken off new bike years back to make a trike.  Said it was from a 97 Goldwing and should fit.  Still big bucks.  Last time I put on tires (again, a Honda dealer) I asked about lubing the splines.  "Always do" was the response.  It's been a long time back in a different city, and I have to dig up the receipt if I still have it.  Don't know if I have any recourse, but this service manager told me it was worth pursuing.  Pretty bad when it's a dealer that screws you over, but then I'm not the first, am I?

Papasan

Houdini here in Dallas had something similar - bought his Valk used from a stealer who had supposedly serviced the bike before putting it on the floor.  At a wrench party at his house, he did the real wheel service and found - the same thing. Rusty, dry and chipped. Fortunately, he had purchased an extended warranty. 

I've had numerous vehicles over the years that are just different enough that automotive and motorcycle shops don't know what to do.  I have a diesel VW that they've left the skid plate off of, tried to remove the oil filter canister counter-clockwise because it was written in German, filled the bell housing with transmission fluid because they couldn't figure out how to fill it after selling me on the transmission fluid change.  Best thing to do is always do it yourself if you can or to find an expert mechanic who will take care of the Valk like he owns it.  And never, never skip that 10K drive service.
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sandy
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Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #17 on: March 27, 2011, 08:51:38 AM »

Rusty dry splines are from using Hondas moly paste and not servicing it every 8K miles. I've used Bel Ray waterproof grease as recommended by my local service shop. After 119K miles, my splines are still perfect. I replaced O Rings twice in this time frame. Wheel dampeners only once. This photo was taken at 112K.
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old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #18 on: March 27, 2011, 10:15:59 AM »

There is a set or was not sure of flanges on flea bay-but a closer look showed they had been run long and hard with no lube. Got to get it into this thick  old noggin that the lube and teardown for same is way CHEAPER than replacement parts-which as we all are aware of will become harder and more difficult to find. The $41.70 i spent for the moly paste i bought pales in comparison to the what? $500 or $600 spent on replacement parts. I'm trying not to be on the soap box-but i did spend the money on the repair manuals hondas and clymers-plus both original owners manuals came with it. coolsmiley And NO the original owners manuals are NOT repeat NOT for sale!! Ya'll have a good day and RIDE SAFE.
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Skinhead
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J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #19 on: March 27, 2011, 11:28:15 AM »

Where do you guys get the Bel Ray waterproof grease?  I have looked everywhere and can't find it.  Auto parts stores just aren't what they used to be.  Anyone else notice that?
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Troy, MI
Willow
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« Reply #20 on: March 27, 2011, 12:20:22 PM »

  Receipt long-since shredded, but service manager recommended that I take it up the chain.  Long period between teardown probably got me to this point.  The tires lasted about 20-21,000 miles with no teardowns between sets....lots of time for bad things to happen in case of poor service. 

Before you guys continue stringing up the dealer, let's consider the possibility that the dealer lubed the splines, but time, miles, and conditions exceeded the reasonable life of the lube. 

Papasan, you didn't mention the time, but if the dealer used moly paste and you ride less than 25,000 miles per year that was too long.    Embarrassed 
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R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #21 on: March 27, 2011, 03:43:55 PM »

Where do you guys get the Bel Ray waterproof grease?  I have looked everywhere and can't find it.  Auto parts stores just aren't what they used to be.  Anyone else notice that?

It be Bel-Ray waterless FRONT WHEEL grease.

We get ours at O'Reilly or Advance Auto Parts.
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Skinhead
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J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #22 on: March 27, 2011, 03:48:15 PM »

Where do you guys get the Bel Ray waterproof grease?  I have looked everywhere and can't find it.  Auto parts stores just aren't what they used to be.  Anyone else notice that?

It be Bel-Ray waterless FRONT WHEEL grease.

We get ours at O'Reilly or Advance Auto Parts.

I've looked there but didn't see it on the shelf, 'course my eye sight isn't what it once was.  I guess I'll axe for it.  Thanks.
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Troy, MI
Momz
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ABATE, AMA, & MRF rep.


« Reply #23 on: March 28, 2011, 06:15:40 PM »

Skinhead,
 Go to Motor City Sales and Service in Bloomfield Hills MI (formerly "Andersons Sales and Service").
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CISE
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« Reply #24 on: March 29, 2011, 09:14:09 AM »

Another source of final drives is if you can find a local shop that trikes bikes.

I purchased a complete back end from ujoint to rear tire and shocks and caliper for 300.00 here in georgia.

(I went to get a spare UJoint for 50.00)

Everything is in good shape including splines and even the tire.

Try it - ya may like it
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