Help with the final drive

[Kilroy]

Well I think I did it this time.  Trying to change the fluid in the final drive and stripped, or more accurately rounded off, the 17mm head in the fill hole.  Man that metal is soft.  Tried to use a bolt extractor to no avail, then drilled several holes in and around what was the head and tried several ways to loosen the fill hole cover.  Tapping it while having a small screwdriver in the hole to loosen it and turn it counter clockwise.  I will spray a little wd40 around the outside to see if that will help loose the threads.   Any ideas, I am at a loss.   Of course the fluid was drained before I started to remove the fill hole cover so I can not ride till I get this done.  I guess I might have to disassemble the the final drive and take it somewhere to have a pro remove the cover, rather not have to do that..  If there is a solution you guys on this board can come up with it.  Thanks for the ideas.
Kilroy

[matt]

I had one like that also. I had to look at another one and then I drilled small holes thru where oring sits and found that is what was holding it. The whole time I thought it was the threads. Good Luck, Matt

[Hook#3287]

I would try this.  Jack the bike up so the rear tire just lifts a little.  Remove the shocks and jack the bike up till the tire lifts again.  Get some needle nose vise grips and CRANK them on the plug/bolt. You just might be able to get enough grip on the bolt head to get it lose.  Order new bolt. Don't do it again.   

Years ago, my buddy tightened his to much and broke it.     I looked around my shop and found my xr350r had the same plug/bolt on the side of the motor case.  Took it out, rode over to his place and we road all day.  I always thought he was lucky the case didn't crack.

[Hook#3287]

A different way.  Find two small steel pins. Drill two holes, one at 3 o'clock and one at 9 o'clock on the plug. Tap pins in holes.  Use screw driver to turn bolt.

Good Luck

[Motorider]

Craftsman makes a socket set for removing nuts and bolts that have been rounded off. As you turn the socket it sinches up on the rounded part. If there is anything left for the socket to grab on to, it may just do the trick. Good luck!

[GOOSE]

KILROY....TRY THE CRAFTSMAN SOCKET ROUTE FIRST IF THAT SOCKET HAS ANYTHING TO HOOK ONTO, IT WILL REMOVE IT.  WHEN YOU GET THAT RASCALL OUT, AND PUT IN A NEW PLUG/NEW O-RING, YOU DON'T HAVE TO TIGHTEN THE BEGEBBEES OUT OF IT...THE O-RING HOLDS PRESSURE BACK AGAINST THE PLUG AND ALSO SEALS IT FROM LEAKING.

[GOOSE]

ALSO...MAKE SURE YOU FLUSH A LITTLE REAR END FLUID BEFORE YOU PUT THE DRAIN PLUG IN, SO YOU GET ALL OF THAT DRILLING SHAVINGS OUT .

[Chrisj CMA]

Kilroy......if you look at the parts fishe that cap is called a valve adjuster cover.  Thats because its the same part the 1970 series 175, 300, 350cc Hondas and some other used to cover the tappet access.  I had a '73 CB175 and I stripped one of them buggars too.  Now I didnt drill holes into it, but what I did do, and it worked, was to get a nice stout crisp blade screwdriver and place the business end at the outer edge of the cap. tap on it until it makes a dent then angle the screwdriver so the impact when hit by the hammer is pushing the cap in the direction of loosening.  it will do the job, I promise

[F6CTrider]

For turning out rounded bolts.........Try a $5 pipe wrench with good hardened teeth.  ( these have been torqing round things for centuries )  Well, maybe $15 or so.
Worked very easily when I needed to extract several stripped and VERY stuck header studs.

Another option......Dremel tool, cut large slot across head of bolt, insert B..F......Screwdriver, with a wrench on the handle if more leverage is needed.

As an aside I was turned on to PB Blaster, a pentrating lubricant for siezed nuts and bolts.  I believe it to be part magic or voodoo.  Great stuff to have around.

[Disco]

Dremel tool, cut large slot across head of bolt, insert B..F......Screwdriver

+1   

[Blackduck]

Single hex sockets work well on rounded or damaged bolt heads.
The other trick is to place the socket over it and give it a couple of whacks with a hammer before trying to turn it.
Cheers Steve

[Sodbuster]

For turning out rounded bolts.........Try a $5 pipe wrench with good hardened teeth.  ( these have been torqing round things for centuries )  Well, maybe $15 or so.
Worked very easily when I needed to extract several stripped and VERY stuck header studs.

+1    or .... a vise grip !

GOOSE .... you need to turn off the caps dude !! That's considered YELLING in forum jargon  

[Chrisj CMA]

the reason the fancy sockets, strong pliers and other "proper" stripped bolt tools wont work is these are very soft aluminum, or aluminum-like pot metal which does not hold up to such tortures

[old2soon]

F6CTrider-is that the proper name of that stuff?-P B Blaster?? What parts house did you find it at?? This enquiring mind would like to know!! T I A-RIDE SAFE.

[John Schmidt]

Craftsman makes a socket set for removing nuts and bolts that have been rounded off. As you turn the socket it sinches up on the rounded part. If there is anything left for the socket to grab on to, it may just do the trick. Good luck!

Absolutely.....I was given a set for my birthday about 5 yrs. ago and it has saved my butt a few times. When nothing else worked, those did.

[F6CTrider]

F6CTrider-is that the proper name of that stuff?-P B Blaster?? What parts house did you find it at?? This enquiring mind would like to know!! T I A-RIDE SAFE.

There are LOTS of names on this can..."Fabulous B'laster" , "PB", etc. etc.
I got this stuff at Autozone or checker????  Comes in a red and white spray can, kinda retro looking graphics.
Manufactured by "B'Laster Corporation"  Cleveland 1-800-858-6605

[Tropic traveler]

the reason the fancy sockets, strong pliers and other "proper" stripped bolt tools wont work is these are very soft aluminum, or aluminum-like pot metal which does not hold up to such tortures

Very true. When I pulled mine off I was scratching my head as to the material that plug was made of. I would say that Jeff's screwdriver tapping method would be the best.
Thanks for the reminder, next HDL order I'm going to order a spare!  

[Kilroy]

Thanks everyone, all great ideas.  I used a little of several.  The Craftsman tools did not work because there was just not enough to grip.   I am keeping the tools because I believe that they will work if they can grip.  I did a bit more drilling and the center dropped out.  After that I was able to use the areas of the middle hole with the screwdriver tapping method and she finally came loose.   I did get a recommendation from a friend and that was to put a very light bit of grease on the threads and don't tighten it up to tight.  I did put a touch, not much Bel Ray grease on the threads and I think all is well in Paradise.   Thanks agin for all your help.   Great ideas from a great group.
Kilroy

[Chrisj CMA]

OK....good to hear its fixed...........just a reminder, two things:

1.  This is one of the parts routinely OVERTIGHTENED on our bikes.  I actually forgot to tighten one once, it was finger tight for two days and no oil leaked.  Turn till it stops and then a smidge more is all you need.  Some other parts that dont need a torque wrench because they just need to be snugged a smidge past finger tight are the rear caliper plate stopper pin, the right lower shock bolt, header nuts and valve cover bolts.

I work on several bikes and always find some of these things WAY too tight

2.  Always use a good quality socket on these soft plugs...never a open end wrench.  Never a crescent wrench.  So use a tight fitting socket only and if you cant get a sqaure connection on it, then remove whatever is in the way or work on it while its off the swing arm.

You wont need a spare if you follow these two easy steps

[MP]

Anytime you have an O-ring fitting, DO NOT tighten much.  Just what Chris said.  The O-ring seals it, not the threads.  Same deal with the petcock.  Just good and snug.

MP