Rear wheel removal problem

[Momz]

While trying to do the spline  and driveshaft maintainence today, I ran into a bit of a problem.
The male splines seem to be stuck to the female splines, thus the pins on the male splines don't allow for the removal of the wheel. I went so far as to remove the rear disk to try and get as much clearance, but it's still a "no-go".

Any suggestions?

[Challenger]

I've had the same problem before, after you remove the brake caliper and spacer, slide the axle back in, This keeps everything lined up and frees up both hands, slide the wheel all the way to the left, use a screw driver to pry & wiggle the splines out and back into the wheel, remove axle and remove wheel.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

If all else fails unbolt the final drive from swingarm and roll the whole thing out. That way you can check your coupler and driveshaft splines at the same time. To restab the drive shaft left swingarm to level or a little higher, makes it much easier.

[Daniel Meyer]

There's a slot in the plastic ring on the final drive (at the bottom) to stick a screwdriver in and pry the splines out of the final drive/back into the wheel.

[Momz]

Completly forgot about the slot on the plastic ring,....DUH! 

[Joe Hummer]

This is a good sign that your wheel dampers are getting worn out.  Might be time to replace them. 

Joe

[Momz]

Got the wheel off using the "Daniel Meyer" method.
The splines look good and the Gaurd Dog grease is still greasy and the O-rings are undamaged.
Still going to clean the splines and driveshaft and replace the O-rings.
Might need to replace the Metzler 880 too.
Glad it's still cold, or I'd be tempted to take a shortcut and not replace the tire.

Thanx for all the responses.

[fudgie]

I remove the final drive all at once. Seems to help.

[Wolfgang1952]

I us an old brake tool to slip in behind the hub to free it up the splines, and push it into the rem.
On another note how many of you are using the proper Past / Grease on the splines of the rear hub, and how often do you grease the slines of the hub?   
On the old forum I did a rundown of the proper Grease to use on the rear hub splines.    I found out the hard way.   I had to replace the complete rear end at right around the Hundred Thousand mile mark.   In the Service manual for the Valk it says to use a molybdenum disulfide paste.   Well what is that?   I found out the hard way.    When my parts came in, in the box with the hub there was an instruction sheet.    On that instruction sheet it gave four types / Brands to use.
#1  Molykote G n Past        manufacturer      Dow Corning    USA
#2  Rocol Paste                            “                 Sumico Lubricants    Japan
#3  Rocol ASP                             “                 Rocol Limited     UK
#4  Honda Moly 60  (USA-only)
Now go looking for Molykote G n Past.   That was fun.   Hit every auto parts store in the area.   No one knew what I was looking for.    Finely stoped by my local truck repair shop (18 wheelers).    That is where I found what I was looking for.   Caterpillar has the same stuff but under their name.    Come to find out I already had a can of G n Past in my tool box.    The company I used to work for used it as anti-seize compound.    It comes in a 1 pound can.

[fudgie]

Hey wolf, it was good chatting with you the other night.