Two Questions - Carb Overhaul

[Paladin]

My 2000 Tourer began running a little sluggishly last year. This year she won't run at all. Turns over fine and has spark, but won't catch. My first thought was maybe the screen set was fouled so I removed the tank and took out the petcock. First time I've had reason to pull out the petcock since I've had the bike.

Good news is the screen set wasn't fouled. Bad news is there wasn't a screenset at all. I'm thinking that the previous owner must have decided that fuel filters are for wimps and threw the whole thing away when it got dirty.

Yikes....

Petcock was clogged with gunk to the point that fuel wouldn't pass through, which of course probably means that all the gunk that got through the petcock before it finally clogged went merrily into my carburetors. I cleaned up the petcock and the gas tank and ordered a repair kit for the rubber petcock parts and a new screenset. I'm planning to pull the carb rack and do a complete clean and o-ring replacement on the carbs. Process seems pretty straight forward, but labor/time intensive. Planning to pull the carb rack in the next couple of days. This will be a spare time project over the next several weekends.

Two questions right off the bat:

1. Is it necessary to put the bike on a lift as the manual instructs, or is there a problem doing the work with the bike on the side stand?

2. The manual instructs to drain the radiator. I drained and flushed my coolant last fall. Any reason to do this prior to pulling the carb rack?

Thanks!

[SCain]

[Two questions right off the bat:

1. Is it necessary to put the bike on a lift as the manual instructs, or is there a problem doing the work with the bike on the side stand?

No this isn't neccessary, but I would put jack stands on each side under the crash bars just to stabilize the bike and make it level that way one side isn't lower than the other and would be easier to work on.

2. The manual instructs to drain the radiator. I drained and flushed my coolant last fall. Any reason to do this prior to pulling the carb rack?

No need to drain the radiator. Skip that step.
Take your time, disconnect everything, drain the carbs before you begin.

Thanks!
[/quote]

[98valk]

each fuel bowl entry has its own non-removable/replaceable filter screen.
I would try and start her and see how she runs.
most likely it will start right up once the fuel is flowing after being dry.

[Blackduck]

I take the 2 rear upper engine brackets out, makes the removal of the carb assembly a lot easier.
Also I leave the left side manifolds on the head, just undo the clamps rubber boots. around 1 1/2 hours to remove and replace.
Be sure to check the operation of the petcock after refitting, it needs to be just right so there is no side loading from the selector extension as that will hold the petcock valve off it's seat.
Cheers Steve

[Paladin]

Thanks guys  Exactly what I needed to know. Keep your fingers crossed for me. I'm generally pretty handy, but carburetors are dangerously close to plumbing - and the Plumbing Gods don't like me.

[Joe Hummer]

Don't try to take the carbs off the brackets unless you truly want to tear them down completely for the cleaning.  The carb assembly will come out fairly easy but you will need to remove one of the motor hangers to gain extra room for manueving.  Take it slow and easy and it should be easy enough.  Good luck with the work.  hopefully your petcock caught most of the chunks. 

Joe