Compressor recommendation needed for new bike lift

[Gary]

Recently picked up a great lift but now need a better compressor to handle it.


Sorry for the poor quality, low res camera phone shot.

Per mfr 100 psi max.

My current fairly new Rockworth Classicair 100 max 2 gallon doesn't quite handle the job smoothly, lots of hessitation and challenging to raise back up to unlock and lower.

Feedback appreciated.

[R J]

I thought I posted a reply to this question.

You got the ame question on both General and Tech?

If not, I'll ty to dig my earlier response up and post it here.

You are confusing this poor old fart.   That is easy to do these days.

 

[Gary]

You're not losing it RJ, I posted on both, first the general board and then fully expected someone to direct me to the Tech.

I wanted to make sure I tapped the sources. That model you suggested has some size to it! I probably don't have the demand that you have other than the lift and some tire fills.

[Mike]

Is that a Direct Lift?

[fordmano]

This might be a bit Overkill but this is what I have sitting outside my garage,
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SPEEDAIRE-Electric-Air-Compressor-1WD58?Pid=search
And I also have this handy Air Dryer.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SPEEDAIRE-Compressed-Air-Dryer-4NMJ4?Pid=search

Anone interested in buying this setup? It is a few years old now I have had it sitting there covered up for about 6 years and it was about a year old when I got it. So the model is actually a little bit different but they used to call it the Cast Iron series. it was worth about $5,000 new and I would let it go for around oh maybe $2,400. I bet shipping it almost anywhere would cost you almost that much again, but it is available and would definately give you plenty of air for almost ANYTHING.

[Gary]

Is that a Direct Lift?

Yes.

[Mike]

Is that a Direct Lift?

Yes.

Any other info or tips when putting it together. I am going Monday morning to pick up the exact same model. Hope you enjoy it.

[Gary]

Any other info or tips when putting it together. I am going Monday morning to pick up the exact same model. Hope you enjoy it.

Mostly comes preassembled other than the wheel chock, removable siderails & ramps, thread on rear wheel-like caps, air fitting on cylinder (see warning below).



Here were a few of my findings:
If you place the wheel chock in the full forward position, you will be right on the cut away for the drop tail. I haven't tried it yet for rear wheel removal but it may be better in the other position back on the wheel chock (about 13 inches) otherwise you won't be able to make clear use of the drop tail feature for the Valk. Maybe a current owner will chime in. I've got to pull the interstate on there and do some rear wheel spline maintenance.

The siderails "look" the same but they only fit the one mount direction and are some heavy mo's so you might try getting them lined up or figured out upfront due to their weight. No problem if you have a team with you, I didn't. They should fit either side, just not either direction. I plan to mark mine with some front or rear marking since I will have to remove them when not in use to store due to space limitations.

It includes a couple of grease fittings which show in the limited instruction manual (available online for pre-review) http://www.directlift.com/Assets/manuals//ProCycleXLTDT.pdf but do not actually fit in the areas shown. 1 - wheel chock slider and 1 - top of air cylinder. If you find where they actually do go please feel free to share that info.

I would lube up the wheel chock slider bar before loading your bike, mine was bone dry. I would also grease the slider section of the drop tail, mine was a tight fit and something you won't want to struggle with during tire removal.

* Oh yes, be sure to watch the angle of the final tightened air fitting on the cylinder. Straight down will cause problems when the lift is down. I did mine at a slight angle. There's probably an ideal angle but I haven't got it just yet. A buddy did his at a lesser angle and it closed off the air flow when lowered and he could not air lift it up.

It does not easily manuever around even with the included dolly. I opted for the accessory Black Jack 1000 but have not actually tried to line it up to the valk with the included adapters.

That's all that comes to mind. Let us know how you like it and please share any tips you find or correct me on anything I may have missed. Enjoy!

Gary

[Mike]

Any other info or tips when putting it together. I am going Monday morning to pick up the exact same model. Hope you enjoy it.

Mostly comes preassembled other than the wheel chock, removable siderails & ramps, thread on rear wheel-like caps, air fitting on cylinder (see warning below).



Here were a few of my findings:
If you place the wheel chock in the full forward position, you will be right on the cut away for the drop tail. I haven't tried it yet for rear wheel removal but it may be better in the other position back on the wheel chock (about 13 inches) otherwise you won't be able to make clear use of the drop tail feature for the Valk. Maybe a current owner will chime in. I've got to pull the interstate on there and do some rear wheel spline maintenance.

The siderails "look" the same but they only fit the one mount direction and are some heavy mo's so you might try getting them lined up or figured out upfront due to their weight. No problem if you have a team with you, I didn't. They should fit either side, just not either direction. I plan to mark mine with some front or rear marking since I will have to remove them when not in use to store due to space limitations.

It includes a couple of grease fittings which show in the limited instruction manual (available online for pre-review) http://www.directlift.com/Assets/manuals//ProCycleXLTDT.pdf but do not actually fit in the areas shown. 1 - wheel chock slider and 1 - top of air cylinder. If you find where they actually do go please feel free to share that info.

I would lube up the wheel chock slider bar before loading your bike, mine was bone dry. I would also grease the slider section of the drop tail, mine was a tight fit and something you won't want to struggle with during tire removal.

* Oh yes, be sure to watch the angle of the final tightened air fitting on the cylinder. Straight down will cause problems when the lift is down. I did mine at a slight angle. There's probably an ideal angle but I haven't got it just yet. A buddy did his at a lesser angle and it closed off the air flow when lowered and he could not air lift it up.

It does not easily manuever around even with the included dolly. I opted for the accessory Black Jack 1000 but have not actually tried to line it up to the valk with the included adapters.

That's all that comes to mind. Let us know how you like it and please share any tips you find or correct me on anything I may have missed. Enjoy!

Gary

Thanks Gary for that information. I will certainly let you know about anything else I find when I start putting it together.