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Author Topic: Petcock Rebuild  (Read 3687 times)
Tundra
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2014 Valkyrie 1800

Seminole, Florida


« on: April 14, 2009, 05:38:41 AM »

I'm ordering parts to do a Petcock rebuild, install a quick-disconnet, new petcock vacuum line, new vacuum caps. QUESTION...Do I need to replace the petcock screen filter? Can it be cleaned and re-used? Does the petcock to tank o-ring need to be replaced?  I was considering installing a fuel filter while I'm in there, any input? good idea/bad idea? If so, any specific filter? Lot's of questions, as always the information from this site is greatly appreciated!
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Grandpot
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Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1

Fort Mill, South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: April 14, 2009, 05:59:29 AM »

Tundra:

The petcock screen can be cleaned.  I normally backflush it by sticking the extension tube that comes with all carb cleaner cans inside the screen and then spray.  This may be a dumb thing to say, but make sure the petcock and screen are out of the tank before you spray.

Changing O rings is always a good idea.  Make sure the O ring is rated for gasoline.  Get an OEM ring.  I don't know if Red Eye sells that size ring.

If you buy the quick disconnect fuel line from Red Eye, they recommend a particular fuel filter in their instructions.  I just went done to AutoZone and bought a filter that had connections that fit the hoses.  Don't get a plastic body filter.  The heat from the engine will distort it.

Have fun.  cooldude
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Tundra
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2014 Valkyrie 1800

Seminole, Florida


« Reply #2 on: April 14, 2009, 06:31:56 AM »

Thanks Doctor_J cooldude
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rmrc51
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Freyja. Queen of the Valkyries

Palmyra, Virginia


« Reply #3 on: April 14, 2009, 07:30:27 AM »

Here's a step as added assurance that you have rebuilt the petcock correctly.

Once you've completed the rebuild, place a hose on the vacuum port and lightly suck to create a vacuum condition while you're looking down the gas outlet. (A good light source is needed to peer down the gas outlet) If everything has been done correctly, you'll see the black rubber diaphragm retract when a vacuum is applied opening the channel for gas to flow.    Smiley
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Momz
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ABATE, AMA, & MRF rep.


« Reply #4 on: April 14, 2009, 10:31:47 AM »

It is a real good idea to remove the filter screen and inspect it. However it may be stuck, then you will need to replace it as it will distort before removal.
The filter screen is cheap and it comes with the o-ring.
But it may also come with a plastic ring/spacer. Throw that piece away! It serves no real purpose and may/will cause fuel delivery problems.
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hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #5 on: April 14, 2009, 11:03:05 AM »

It is a real good idea to remove the filter screen and inspect it. However it may be stuck, then you will need to replace it as it will distort before removal.
The filter screen is cheap and it comes with the o-ring.
But it may also come with a plastic ring/spacer. Throw that piece away! It serves no real purpose and may/will cause fuel delivery problems.


The little plastic nubbin goes inside the filter, here:



I've never thrown it away... I thought it served an important function as to
registering the filter on the standpipe...?

-Mike
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John U.
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Southern Delaware


« Reply #6 on: April 14, 2009, 11:55:28 AM »

I'm trying to understand how that spacer/donut would serve the function of fixing the location of the screen relative to the intake tube (or perhaps preventing collapse of the screen) without isolating the upper part of the screen from the lower part. In the posted picture, the portion of the screen below the spacer could only serve the reserve intake, while the portion above the spacer is the only part of the screen serving the tube inlet which is used in the "on' position.
My questions about this occurred to me when I rebuilt my petcock and replaced the screen. I checked the microfiche and it doesn't show the spacer, so I'm still wondering which is correct. Undecided
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lee
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Northeast Tennessee


« Reply #7 on: April 14, 2009, 08:30:43 PM »

The spacer/donut goes around the top of the stand pipe, and inside of the screen.  Its to keep the screen
centered on the standpipe.  Yes you only draw from the top section of the screen when in the
on position.  Yes you only draw from the bottom portion of the screen when on reserve.  It don't
matter about the donut when you are on reserve because the fuel level is below the top of the
standpipe and you are only going to get fuel through the bottom portion of the screen anyway.
Don't forget to rinse the crud out of your tank while you have the petcock off.
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C. Drewry
Tundra
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2014 Valkyrie 1800

Seminole, Florida


« Reply #8 on: April 15, 2009, 03:13:20 AM »

Good point Lee, thank you cooldude
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ridgeman06
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Palmer, MA


« Reply #9 on: April 15, 2009, 03:45:49 AM »

I just did mine last week.  I also had bought the screen kit with o ring. When I pulled the old screen out, I'm not sure if it is normal or not, but it was kinda collapsed and very weak structurally.
Last season, I did have an instance where I almost got stranded due to a power loss on the highway. This was why I bought the kits over the winter as part of my maintenance stuff. I wonder if the problem I had was related to the flattened screen?

As far as that spacer goes, I slipped the new one inside the screen like the old one was.
Take care, Eric
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rmrc51
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Freyja. Queen of the Valkyries

Palmyra, Virginia


« Reply #10 on: April 15, 2009, 07:04:03 AM »

I just did a petcock rebuild and the difference between the old screen and a new one is quite evident. Maybe this was due to mine supposedly being the original. It's not expensive as I remember. Might as well get a new one. IMHO.
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strawbobrob
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« Reply #11 on: October 18, 2011, 08:20:45 AM »

As a late reply to this thread--the fuel screen is $12 to $17 nowadays, and likely needs replacing if it is collapsed or distorted.  I have an observation microscope and noticed that at the point of distortion the screen fails.  Although too small to be seen with the naked eye, the hole in the screen was large under the microscope. I am also one of those unfortunates who experienced hydrolock on the Valk.  I don't know that the hydrolock was a direct result of the collapsed/distorted screen I had, but it could have been. 
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bikerboy1951
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Grand Forks, ND


« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2011, 10:56:58 AM »


  If you are looking to add an inline filter, Golan makes a very nice one.  It is rated for 10 microns and a flow rate of 6 gallons a minute.  The in tank filter is 40 microns.  Neither filter will catch things such as rust as that will get through just about anything.
  I bought the Golan fuel filter on EBay for about $50.

Brad
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valkyriemc
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2000 blu/slvr Interstate, 2018 Ultra Limited

NE Florida


« Reply #13 on: October 18, 2011, 01:52:33 PM »


  If you are looking to add an inline filter, Golan makes a very nice one.  It is rated for 10 microns and a flow rate of 6 gallons a minute.  The in tank filter is 40 microns.  Neither filter will catch things such as rust as that will get through just about anything.
  I bought the Golan fuel filter on EBay for about $50.

Brad

I had that Golan filter for 4-5 years _no problems -like it fine.  I found very fine reddish particles in my gas tank years ago, and in my carbs. Nothing found in the carbs since. Like that filter and my Pingel...
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wild6
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(Old enough to know better)

Vernon, NJ


« Reply #14 on: October 18, 2011, 04:51:17 PM »

During Daniel Meyer's tech sessions at Inzane, he explained that the spacer also separates the screen into 2 parts.  The part above the spacer filters fuel when the petcock is set to ON.  The part below filters fuel when the petcock is set to RESERVE.

This allows you to recover temporarily from a clogged/gunked-up filter by changing to reserve.
« Last Edit: October 18, 2011, 04:56:43 PM by wild6 » Logged


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olddog1946
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Moses Lake, Wa


« Reply #15 on: October 23, 2011, 09:55:25 PM »

If you get the quick dis-connect from red-eye, get some extra o-rings for it..mine split apart on the second tank dismount..I've since gone to a brass connector in use with the red-eye hoses..I also have a filter installed...IT IS the plastic filter, and I took the bike to Az from middle of May to 19th of July, and I can see no distortion of it at all...
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Sambo21
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Ponte Vedra Beach, FL


« Reply #16 on: November 02, 2011, 09:48:04 AM »

Redeye sells a replacement fuel line and filter assembly.  Check it out from Rich at http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/5138850/frankenfilter-fuel-line-and-filter-for-honda
 
Highly recommended -- and you won't find a better vendor and quality stuff for the Valk.
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