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sugerbear
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« on: May 26, 2011, 09:50:04 AM » |
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is the only difference between a standard/tourer and an I/S, the rpm that it starts charging?
MAY need a new one soon. just trying to get ahead of the curve.(maybe by next year)
don't need the higher output one, and i know i can "clock" a goldwing alt.
is it a different voltage regulator?
thanks
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Bobbo
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« Reply #1 on: May 26, 2011, 11:41:32 AM » |
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According to the parts list, the alternators are identical except for #12, alternator wire. I don't know specifically what is different between the two, but the alternator should be the same.
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #2 on: May 26, 2011, 12:11:26 PM » |
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I think the IS alternator has a noise filter built in/added on.
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Rocketman
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« Reply #3 on: May 26, 2011, 12:39:47 PM » |
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I think the IS alternator has a noise filter built in/added on.
That's correct. The IS has a noise filter (capacitor) that is part of the wire leading up to the alternator, and is bolted onto the back end. You could easily retain the wiring from the tourer, or for that matter, use the noise filter. I can't think of any reason that it would be a bad idea (except that it's just one more thing to cram into that little space). In prep for doing the replacement: It's a very tight fit. I recommend you go to the nearest naval yard and listen in so as to bolster your vocabulary. You'll need it. |
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Bobbo
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« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2011, 01:21:09 PM » |
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In prep for doing the replacement: It's a very tight fit. I recommend you go to the nearest naval yard and listen in so as to bolster your vocabulary. You'll need it.
I agree!  Also, hide your big hammers, because you'll want to use them at some point!  |
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Gerard irl
Member
Posts: 144
My pride and Joy
Dublin Ireland
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« Reply #5 on: May 26, 2011, 01:40:26 PM » |
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:coolsmiley:Not a very nice job hear hear
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Trynt
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« Reply #6 on: May 26, 2011, 01:56:37 PM » |
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According to the parts list, the alternators are identical except for #12, alternator wire. I don't know specifically what is different between the two, but the alternator should be the same.
Recheck the part numbers: 31100-mby-005 is the Interstate. 31100-mzo-015 is the Standard. It has been said on this board that the Interstate Alt. is higher output but doesn't start to charge until 1000+ rpm. Not all Interstate Alts are shipped with the capacitor for noise suppression. |
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« Last Edit: May 26, 2011, 02:09:39 PM by Trynt »
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Bobbo
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« Reply #7 on: May 26, 2011, 03:07:07 PM » |
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According to the parts list, the alternators are identical except for #12, alternator wire. I don't know specifically what is different between the two, but the alternator should be the same.
Recheck the part numbers: 31100-mby-005 is the Interstate. 31100-mzo-015 is the Standard. It has been said on this board that the Interstate Alt. is higher output but doesn't start to charge until 1000+ rpm. Not all Interstate Alts are shipped with the capacitor for noise suppression. I am looking at the microfiche for the internal parts of the alternator between I/S and standard/tourer. All are identical except the wire, which probably has an integrated noise suppression capacitor. The fully assembled alternator has a different number due to that wire, but all other components are identical. |
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Rocketman
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« Reply #8 on: May 27, 2011, 08:01:18 AM » |
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I should say that with practice, it becomes lots easier, but the first time can be frustrating. You don't want as much practice as I've had.
Tips from the seasoned vet:
Make sure the dampers are intact. There are 8 dampers, but they are mated pairs, linked by a little rubber strip. If this rubber piece is damaged, and they no longer stay together as a pair, you will have a tough time getting the drive "blades" in. Gravity will want to pull the dampers into the spot where the blades go, and you can't hole them out of the way, because you can't get your fingers in there. The rubber strip is designed to hold the pairs in place until the blades are in. If you only have one damaged, you can put that pair at the bottom, where gravity will pull them into the right position. If you have more than one, and certiainly if you have more than two damaged, you will have to repair or replace them. Not sure how you could repair them though. (This will make more sense when you have the alt. out and are looking at it.)
You may have to turn the alternator along its rotational axis to get it out/in. You may also need to rotate the blades to get them to line up with the dampers. Don't hesitate to do either one.
Pull the center cover. It's a pain, because you really need a long phillips screwdriver to remove/replace the tip switch, but it makes the difference. When you put the center cover back on, remember two things:
1) The triangle (arrow?) printed on the tip switch points down. This is counterintuitive, but you will exercise all your new naval vocabulary if you install it wrong and then the bike won't start. Especially if you can't figure out why.
2) Find the rubber grommet that the tab on the bottom of the center cover fits in. Make sure the cover pops fully into this. If it doesn't, the center cover will be twisted when you install it, then the side cover tabs won't fit in right, and they might fly off when you hit highway speed. That's bad. So, pop into that grommet. it's just like the grommet for the alternator cover, or the rear of the side cover. Same feel when it goes in right, too. Get some good light in there, and look at it while the alternator is out, so you know what you're dealing with.
Mark
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