Driving lights electrical problem

[..]

I had Kuryakan 20 w halogen bullet lights mounted on my forks. One bracket broke and I lost a light so I bought some el cheapo 50w halogen replacements from Wal-Mart.




Fitted them in the same place and ran the ground wires from each light to my brake caliper bolts. Plugged them in to my existing wiring.


PROBLEM.


Battery got drained and the 20 amp fuse I had in line got very HOT. See my hand drawn wiring diagram.


Isn't my existing wiring pretty much the same as the replacement lights instructions? Only the switch is the variable.

[John Schmidt]

Britman, first an apology for the other day. Totally out of character for me. That said...do you have a switch in the circuit between the battery and fuse? The hand drawn circuit would definitely drain the battery if no switch is present. If you do have one, how about drawing it in and reposting.

John

[..]

John, no worries. Life is too short.

I don't have a switch. The Kuryakan lights came on as soon as the ignition key was turned.

[9Ball]

without a switch the lights would be constantly on if connected directly to the battery....not a good scenario.

[9Ball]

John, no worries. Life is too short.

I don't have a switch. The Kuryakan lights came on as soon as the ignition key was turned.

can't be the way you have it wired....the battery is always hot and you have no trigger, ie. relay connected to the ignition circuit.

[..]

without a switch the lights would be constantly on if connected directly to the battery....not a good scenario.

Lights connected to the headlight and came on with ignition key.

I am an electrical dunce.  

[Gryphon Rider]

First, I would put in a 10A fuse.
(50W+50W) / 12V = 8.3A
8.3A x 1.2 = 10A fuse

After charging the battery, I would next use an ammeter to measure current on all 3 parts of your circuit to see if you significantly exceed 4.15A at each light or 8.3 before the "Y".  If the current exceeds these values, start looking for a short to ground.  If not, your fuse holder may not be making solid connections.

I would NOT power the circuit from headlight wires.  The control circuit for a relay, yes, but not the lights.

[John Schmidt]

I agree with Gryphon Rider re. separating that circuit from the headlights. Mine are totally separate for a reason; if either the headlight or the driving lights go out...you still have lights to get you home. And less strain on the starter switch as well. I'd install a switch that activates a relay, which will turn on the lights. I'm not good at drawing stuff either, but I'm sure someone here can do it for you. You'll need a "normally open" relay, it will close when you hit the switch for the lights...turning them on.

[fordmano]

Yep mostly agree with most of what has been offered as advice.

That being said, just me but your mileage may vary.
I would run a ground all the way back to the block or the fram or better yet the battery itself, I used a couple common ground plates on in front in the fairing and another back near the battery and my auxiliary power panel. You already had to run 1 wire to the front end of the bike what's the big deal of having 2 run the same path? I am not cometly sold on the integrity of the ground plain with your current setup. You more than doubled the wattage use for those lights at that location, might want to check the battery and charging system you might have something starting to go wrong in that area.

Next I would absolutely only wire ANYTHIng added to the bike with a relay based circuit. Now do you use a switch to trigger relay or just a keyed +voltage? I like the switch way for lights type of stuff that I might want off for some reason sometime. My bike has 7 different added relay circuits and the I oh totally automatic circuits are the general AUX power panel the 400watt stereo amplifier and my Dan-Mark fuel valve.


Good luck.

[9Ball]

there are numerous pre-made wiring harnesses complete with relays and instructions that will help you do the proper job for the wiring.  Kuryakyn makes one and I personally like the quality of the stuff coming from an overseas company called Eastern Beaver.  These aren't cheap, but they are built solidly with quality components and will provide a long, useful service life free of problems.

heres a link.  I've personally used several of their products and can't say enough positive about their quality and customer service should you ever have any technical questions.

aux light harness and components....

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Aux_Lights/aux_lights.html

main page...

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html