Speedo failure

[Rocketman]

OK, so I got about halfway in to work before I noticed that my speedometer was crapped out.  It's a 2000 I/S, so it's an electric jobby.  I didn't have any time for troubleshooting, as I needed to run into work, but I did manage to cycle the key during the ride.  That did no good.
I didn't do any work recently, just been riding.  It worked fine on my ride yesterday.  I found the bike rather wet this morning from dew, that might have popped a fuse, I suppose.  I didn't notice anything else out, though.  What else is on that fuse with the speedo?

Any ideas?  I have a long ride tomorrow, and having my left side speedo operational would be good.

Mark

[dalai-lama]

Check the sender unit down on the left on the front wheel.  The screw could have come out.  Then check pull the wheel and check the drive unit as the plastic cam in there can wear out.  If all of the rest of the head unit is working (radio, clock, etc.) it is probably the sender.

the dalai

[Rocketman]

I've done as much checking as I can, I think.  I even took the sendin unit apart at a low level.  Looked a little wet inside, cleaned it up, and put it back together.  No dice. 
I don't know what the sending unit is supposed to be putting out, and I don't have a voltmeter with me anyway.  I guess I'm going to run without spedo/odo for a while.  Too bad, because it would come in handy during my 750 miles I have slated for tomorrow.

Mark

[gordonv]

I don't have the parts in front of me, but you need to start by getting the front wheel off the ground. Remove the sending unit, and turn the wheel, and confirm that the wheel gear unit is turning. That is a mechanical connection, it either works or doesn't (I sold mine already).

I just checked, there should be a 3 pin connector between the speed sensor and the main wire harness, you'll want to check that. Other wise the main wire harnes is what goes into the back of the display panel. Research page 19-9 (page 416) in the searvice manual. Shows how to test it. (I still have the sending unit for sale)

[Rocketman]

I've already done most of that.  I verified the mechanical connection.  I lifted the front wheel off the ground, and spun it, and the tab spun.  I stuck a screwdriver into the sending unit, and it turned freely.  Everything acted as expected.  I can't verify continuity, as I'm on travel, and don't have an ohmeter with me.  I would be happy to buy your sending unit, but I need one tomorrow AM.  I think I have an operable one at home, but I want one for the trip.  (If I the one at home isn't operable, I'll talk to you.)

I reseated the connector, no joy.  I cleaned the sending unit, inside and out, no joy.  I did most everything except do a continuity check, and replace the part.
I suppose I could have checked it all the way to the guage head, but since my odometer and all other lights/gauges are operable, I don't think that's the problem.  (No, the odometer's not incrementing, but the display is still on.  It's just staying at the same number because it isn't getting any new input.)

[fudgie]

Woulnd let let it stop your trip. You should be able to judge how fast without it.

[Skinhead]

3500 rpm is ~ 70mph.  If the tach ain't workin' and the turn signals and stop light as well, it's the 15 amp fuse in the right side cover.  If only the speedo is out, I'd check the harness and connector in the fairing.

[B]

You've probably checked it, but I have blown the fuse before. I can't rem if a horn or blinker short took it out. Give it a look.
 I would also pull the wheel and check the mechanical end; i know you said you looked at the connection but if it's catching periodically it can turn the sensor connection but if it's not constant it won't register a pulse. (been there too).  From talking to Valk owners and mechanics it seems (or so I'm told) it's typically a mechanical failure if it goes.

[AussieValk]

Had that happen on my 2000IS. Replaced the sender unit and all was well again. Very easy fix.

[Rocketman]

Woulnd let let it stop your trip. You should be able to judge how fast without it.

It was the "going home" leg of my trip, thus the lack of a voltmeter.  Not much was going to stop it.  I just wanted to know how much farther to fuel stops, towns, etc., since the odo reads off the same signal.

[Rocketman]

3500 rpm is ~ 70mph.  If the tach ain't workin' and the turn signals and stop light as well, it's the 15 amp fuse in the right side cover.  If only the speedo is out, I'd check the harness and connector in the fairing.

Yeah, I used the tach all the way.  Had some good remembrance of speed vs. rpm, and stayed with traffic mostly anyway.
Nothing else was out, and the fuses all checked out good.
Contacts in the fairing were a little corroded, but not enough to kill the signal, I think.

[Rocketman]

You've probably checked it, but I have blown the fuse before. I can't rem if a horn or blinker short took it out. Give it a look.
 I would also pull the wheel and check the mechanical end; i know you said you looked at the connection but if it's catching periodically it can turn the sensor connection but if it's not constant it won't register a pulse. (been there too).  From talking to Valk owners and mechanics it seems (or so I'm told) it's typically a mechanical failure if it goes.

What could I see by pulling the wheel that I can't from removing the sending unit and spinning the wheel?  I grabbed hold of the tab that spins with the mech. end, and it turns constantly and strong.  There's a little hysteresis, but I think that's normal.  Once it "catches" (~1/2 turn of the wheel), it's constant.

[B]

You've probably checked it, but I have blown the fuse before. I can't rem if a horn or blinker short took it out. Give it a look.
 I would also pull the wheel and check the mechanical end; i know you said you looked at the connection but if it's catching periodically it can turn the sensor connection but if it's not constant it won't register a pulse. (been there too).  From talking to Valk owners and mechanics it seems (or so I'm told) it's typically a mechanical failure if it goes.

What could I see by pulling the wheel that I can't from removing the sending unit and spinning the wheel?  I grabbed hold of the tab that spins with the mech. end, and it turns constantly and strong.  There's a little hysteresis, but I think that's normal.  Once it "catches" (~1/2 turn of the wheel), it's constant.

If you're convinced it's working properly, probably nothing.

[Rocketman]

Follow-up:

I have another Interstate that is awaiting a rebuild.  I pulled the sending unit off that this morning, and put it on.  Voila!  It works!

[B]

Follow-up:

I have another Interstate that is awaiting a rebuild.  I pulled the sending unit off that this morning, and put it on.  Voila!  It works!

Cool. Just curious what do they get for a new one? Have you checked?

[Rocketman]

HDL had it listed as retail=96, their price=70.
Those numbers are four-day-old memory, so don't trust them too far.

[Red Diamond]

Good for you Mark. What kind of work is needed on the other I/S  for rebuilding? I'd love to rebuild one also.

[Rocketman]

Mostly wiring.  As soon as I have the time (when the girls move out, maybe?), I'll work on it.

[Karen]

Glad you got it working with the borrowed unit. A couple of years ago mine went bad, and I mounted a bicycle speedometer. Worked fine till the replacement came. just a thought...

[Rocketman]

Will a bicycle spedo read highway speeds?

[OldOneEye]

Will a bicycle spedo read highway speeds?

Mine reads triple digits 

[RainMaker]

Mostly wiring.  As soon as I have the time (when the girls move out, maybe?), I'll work on it.

Is that your '99 green and silver water-dog?

[Rocketman]

Mostly wiring.  As soon as I have the time (when the girls move out, maybe?), I'll work on it.

Is that your '99 green and silver water-dog?

That's the one.