|
garyheskett All 49 x 3 st.louis
|
 |
« on: July 03, 2011, 10:15:48 AM » |
|
I was involved in an accident a few days ago. My timing belt cover was dented in and I need to take the cover off and replace the timing belts. I needed to do this anyway, I have 107,00 on the Valk. Now I have no choice, I have to replace them. The belts are hitting the cover. I was hoping that someone can tell me or attach an attachment on how to do the job. The timing belt cover has a dent abut the size of my index finger in it. My local Honda dealers cost for a new cover is $560. I was thinking of trying to knock out the dent, any suggestions on that would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help. I'm not to good on the ol computer, so be patient if I need to respond.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Red Diamond
|
|
« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2011, 10:18:23 AM » |
|
Might want to check with PinWall Cycle Parts on e-bay for a used cover.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
 If you are riding and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast. |
|
|
|
Ricky-D
|
|
« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2011, 10:23:05 AM » |
|
Go with your first inclination and try to bang the dent out. Just try to keep it small and importantly avoid cracking the cover.
That's simply a cover and plays no part in the running of the motor. You could run without the cover although I wouldn't recommend doing so!
You'll find those covers are very expensive, whether new or used regardless of where you look.
***
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
|
|
|
Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
|
|
« Reply #3 on: July 03, 2011, 12:13:01 PM » |
|
Changing the timing belts is not a difficult job and is in shop talk or archives.. The main concern is to not allow the pulleys to move during the replacement and check the alignment/timing marks.. Honda wants 1/4" of free-play in the belts, I leave a little more [ 3/8"] as it makes them a little less ' whiney'.. It makes the engine a little easier to turn over if you remove the sparklers and make sure the alignment are lined up, then turn the engine over by hand and check the alignment again before starting this monster.. This is an interference engine and if the belts are not installed correctly the valves and pistons will run into each other ,resulting in an expensive repair.. I'm not trying to scare you, just warn you.. A few folks have not taken these precautions and have had to open their wallets..
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15260
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
|
|
« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2011, 12:50:43 PM » |
|
Where are you located? Many members have their city listed in the profile on the left side, helps let others know if they can help out personally. In my case, if you were in central Florida I'd be more than willing to lend a hand. As stated...it's not difficult, you just need to be aware of the problems you can cause. I wouldn't start on it without a shop manual however.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
sugerbear
|
|
« Reply #5 on: July 03, 2011, 05:18:03 PM » |
|
looks like he's toward the left coast, so i can't help ???
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
garyheskett All 49 x 3 st.louis
|
|
« Reply #6 on: July 03, 2011, 05:45:40 PM » |
|
Thanks for the suggestions so far. I am in St. Louis. If it is in "shop talk", I must have overlooked it.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Brian
|
|
« Reply #7 on: July 03, 2011, 05:48:03 PM » |
|
You can buy new belts on amazon.com or NAPA. They are made gates, gates # is 275 NAPA is 250275, cheaper thru Amazon if not in a hurry. Anyway, both places will give you 2 new belts for the price of one Honda.
There are many entries on this site about this very subject. If you go to shoptalk section here you can learn how to make a tool to help with removing the trigger wheel and the drive pulleys for the belts. It is not hard at all if you have the tools.
Good luck on that dent.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
GOOSE
Member
Posts: 704
D.S. #: 1643
Southwest Virginia
|
|
« Reply #8 on: July 03, 2011, 06:29:31 PM » |
|
i made my own tool to hold the pully, and remove the belts. you can also put an impact wrench on the bolt to remove it after aligning the marks, and you don't need to hold the pully's.....zip, and it's loose, with no movement.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Jeff K
|
|
« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2011, 08:19:45 PM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
CASABROKER
|
|
« Reply #10 on: July 03, 2011, 09:02:17 PM » |
|
the cam pulleys should not move mark them also with a sharpie on the pulley and on the case. Do this on both of the up marks on each pulley if they move you will know it. Get the belt on the teeth from the opposite side of the tensioners. start at the crank keep it tight and roll-it over the cam pulley and set the tensioners. It's easy crank to pulley then towards the tensioner ones on top the others on the bottom.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Crazyhorse
|
|
« Reply #11 on: July 06, 2011, 12:34:31 PM » |
|
Replaced mine (on my I/S) in April before going to the GOTF. Bike had 104000 miles on it and the belts had no cracks and showed no visible wear. Got the gates belts from rockauto.com. Be sure to let the engine heat up before removing cover to prevent the one bolt from breaking. All this is in the instructions. There are some guys in you area who would be glad to help if you posted it on the general board.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
|
|
« Reply #12 on: July 06, 2011, 04:57:48 PM » |
|
As say about not hard just pay attention. I took whiteout and added marks on the pulleys and reference points before taking mine apart. It is a good idea to take photos with a digital camera to check yourself after doing the job. Use a socket and rachet on the center (trigger wheel) nut to turn the engine over by hand several times to check for any problems before installing plug and starting motor. YOU CAN DO IT.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
