BigAl
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« on: July 10, 2011, 12:00:54 PM » |
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Mine is wrinkling the chrome , is there a fix that I missed on here.
Or another way to put it is,,,,,,,, what are most Valk owners doing with ths problem?
AL
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: July 10, 2011, 12:04:48 PM » |
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I fixed mine by buying a new one from HDL......$30 or so
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ValkFlyer
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« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2011, 12:27:45 PM » |
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I glued some heat wrap to the underside of mine, works great.
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Buda
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« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2011, 12:39:52 PM » |
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Removed the chrome and painted it black
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97 Valkyrie 33344 
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RoadKill
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« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2011, 12:54:22 PM » |
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Removed the chrome and painted it black
+1
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #5 on: July 10, 2011, 02:58:07 PM » |
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Someone talked of making a replacement out of stainless steel. Run a search and see if you can find it. There were a lot of responses, although he hasn't made any yet. A few years ago someone else made a few. I understand the problem, I have it on the Interstate too.
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Gear Jammer
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Posts: 3074
Yeah,,,,,It's a HEMI
Magnolia, Texas
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« Reply #6 on: July 10, 2011, 03:26:41 PM » |
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I glued some heat wrap to the underside of mine, works great.
Heat wrap? Describe please.
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 "The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living.
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sugerbear
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« Reply #7 on: July 10, 2011, 05:23:57 PM » |
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Removed the chrome and painted it black
+1 me too, as soon as it gets below 500 deg around here 
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YoungPUP
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« Reply #8 on: July 10, 2011, 05:28:32 PM » |
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+1 on painting it. Peel off the rest of the chrome give it s light scuff and paint it. Rustoleum, and krylon stick good. Duplicolor not so much...
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!
99 STD (Under construction)
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GotValk
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« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2011, 06:39:58 PM » |
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DFragn
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« Reply #10 on: July 10, 2011, 08:00:40 PM » |
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1. Peel, fill as required, wet sand... 2. Primer, Color, Clear Coat & wet sand, polish, wax... It'll be mistaken for OEM.  
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Gear Jammer
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Posts: 3074
Yeah,,,,,It's a HEMI
Magnolia, Texas
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« Reply #12 on: July 11, 2011, 02:55:44 AM » |
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Thanks for the pics.d And I'd guess it's no more costly than multiple replacements of the cover. I'm on my third one now.  At a 1/4 inch thickness, I'm curious of it contacts the alternator, and if so, does it cause any heat buildup in it. ???
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« Last Edit: July 11, 2011, 03:01:00 AM by Gear Jammer »
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 "The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living.
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ValkFlyer
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« Reply #13 on: July 11, 2011, 10:45:18 AM » |
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Thanks for the pics.d And I'd guess it's no more costly than multiple replacements of the cover. I'm on my third one now.  At a 1/4 inch thickness, I'm curious of it contacts the alternator, and if so, does it cause any heat buildup in it. ??? Sorry..... Good point I've got to be more careful when posting info....actually the stuff I had laying around was for protecting wires, it was about 1-1/2 in diameter and relatively thin, ~ 1/16. Cut it open at the stitching and sized it to fit. Used a heat resistant gasket sealant for adhering to the cover. There is contact on the top so you're not going to want to go thicker, front is good. Warm to the touch but not hot.
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RedValk
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Posts: 1253
Hangin' out here beats a tree on the head any day!
Titus, AL
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« Reply #14 on: July 11, 2011, 11:24:57 AM » |
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1. Peel, fill as required, wet sand... 2. Primer, Color, Clear Coat & wet sand, polish, wax... It'll be mistaken for OEM.   learn something every day. I LIKE THAT! thanks for the info/idea 
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 RedValk/Tim Titus, AL
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Gear Jammer
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Posts: 3074
Yeah,,,,,It's a HEMI
Magnolia, Texas
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« Reply #15 on: July 13, 2011, 07:21:56 PM » |
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Thanks for the pics.d And I'd guess it's no more costly than multiple replacements of the cover. I'm on my third one now.  At a 1/4 inch thickness, I'm curious of it contacts the alternator, and if so, does it cause any heat buildup in it. ??? Sorry..... Good point I've got to be more careful when posting info....actually the stuff I had laying around was for protecting wires, it was about 1-1/2 in diameter and relatively thin, ~ 1/16. Cut it open at the stitching and sized it to fit. Used a heat resistant gasket sealant for adhering to the cover. There is contact on the top so you're not going to want to go thicker, front is good. Warm to the touch but not hot. This product may be more like that which you used. I just ordered a piece for $15 12x12 Thermo Tec 13500 - Thermo-Tec Adhesive Backed Heat Barrier http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo-Tec/893/13500/10002/-1?parentProductId=
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 "The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living.
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Tropic traveler
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Posts: 3117
Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.
Silver Springs, Florida
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« Reply #16 on: July 13, 2011, 07:35:52 PM » |
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Stripped it & painted it with semi-gloss black engine paint. Looks good on a Valk with black in the paint scheme. Not so sure if I would like it on any other paint scheme. I do love that body color cover!  
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'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer '13 F6B red for Kim '97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now! '98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B '05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B '99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B '05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!
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ValkFlyer
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« Reply #17 on: July 14, 2011, 12:52:47 AM » |
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Thanks for the pics.d And I'd guess it's no more costly than multiple replacements of the cover. I'm on my third one now.  At a 1/4 inch thickness, I'm curious of it contacts the alternator, and if so, does it cause any heat buildup in it. ??? Sorry..... Good point I've got to be more careful when posting info....actually the stuff I had laying around was for protecting wires, it was about 1-1/2 in diameter and relatively thin, ~ 1/16. Cut it open at the stitching and sized it to fit. Used a heat resistant gasket sealant for adhering to the cover. There is contact on the top so you're not going to want to go thicker, front is good. Warm to the touch but not hot. This product may be more like that which you used. I just ordered a piece for $15 12x12 Thermo Tec 13500 - Thermo-Tec Adhesive Backed Heat Barrier http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo-Tec/893/13500/10002/-1?parentProductId=I'd say it's better with that self adhesive backing..
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Tundra
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Posts: 3882
2014 Valkyrie 1800
Seminole, Florida
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« Reply #18 on: July 14, 2011, 05:03:51 AM » |
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Ok...I see the fix idea's, all good. (good to see you here Dennis) I'm looking for the cause and I think I guessed wrong by looking at your fixes. It appears to be heat related? I spilled some fluid on mine while bleeding the clutch several years ago and then some time after, I noticed the chrome bubbling up. I thought it was from the fluid contact? It also damaged the paint on my frame below it, so I thought it was caused by me and not the heat issue. Any ideas, have any of you done the same as me? ValFlyer, Nice job on your bike  Love your paint.
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If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!
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ValkFlyer
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« Reply #19 on: July 14, 2011, 09:14:34 AM » |
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Ok...I see the fix idea's, all good. (good to see you here Dennis) I'm looking for the cause and I think I guessed wrong by looking at your fixes. It appears to be heat related? ValFlyer, Nice job on your bike  Love your paint. Yes, heat related...and thanks for the compliment!
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Willow
Administrator
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Posts: 16719
Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
Olathe, KS
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« Reply #20 on: July 14, 2011, 04:17:24 PM » |
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Some may be heat related, but I think a large number if not the majority of bubbled covers can be traced to fluid, usually gasoline that's been spilled on them.
I have one with over 160,000 with no issues. I had one with 86,000 miles I had to replace.
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Stanley Steamer
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« Reply #21 on: July 14, 2011, 04:47:29 PM » |
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Ok...I see the fix idea's, all good. (good to see you here Dennis) I'm looking for the cause and I think I guessed wrong by looking at your fixes. It appears to be heat related? I spilled some fluid on mine while bleeding the clutch several years ago and then some time after, I noticed the chrome bubbling up. I thought it was from the fluid contact? It also damaged the paint on my frame below it, so I thought it was caused by me and not the heat issue. Any ideas, have any of you done the same as me? ValFlyer, Nice job on your bike  Love your paint. Yep.....several guys have told me it's most likely from GAS dripping down on it from tank removals.... 
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Stanley "Steamer" "Ride Hard or Stay Home" 
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Fudd
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Posts: 1733
MSF RiderCoach
Denham Springs, La.
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« Reply #22 on: July 14, 2011, 05:11:43 PM » |
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I have one with over 160,000 with no issues. I had one with 86,000 miles I had to replace.
I'm not doubting your word for one minute, but that's amazing. I can't remember if I've ever seen a good original one.
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 Save a horse, ride a Valkyrie
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RP#62
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« Reply #23 on: July 14, 2011, 05:41:04 PM » |
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I have one with over 160,000 with no issues. I had one with 86,000 miles I had to replace.
I'm not doubting your word for one minute, but that's amazing. I can't remember if I've ever seen a good original one. Mine on my 97 Tourer is original and its pristine. I always cover it with a rag when I take the tank off, so no gas has ever touched it. -RP
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Stanley Steamer
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« Reply #24 on: July 14, 2011, 06:06:09 PM » |
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I have one with over 160,000 with no issues. I had one with 86,000 miles I had to replace.
I'm not doubting your word for one minute, but that's amazing. I can't remember if I've ever seen a good original one. Mine on my 97 Tourer is original and its pristine. I always cover it with a rag when I take the tank off, so no gas has ever touched it. -RP Bingo......we have a winner!..... 
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Stanley "Steamer" "Ride Hard or Stay Home" 
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DFragn
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« Reply #25 on: July 14, 2011, 06:30:47 PM » |
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Ok...I see the fix idea's, all good. (good to see you here Dennis) I'm looking for the cause and I think I guessed wrong by looking at your fixes. It appears to be heat related? I spilled some fluid on mine while bleeding the clutch several years ago and then some time after, I noticed the chrome bubbling up. I thought it was from the fluid contact? It also damaged the paint on my frame below it, so I thought it was caused by me and not the heat issue. Any ideas, have any of you done the same as me? ValFlyer, Nice job on your bike  Love your paint. hey there Tundra, yep been gone for a while...and thanks... Here's my take on the alt cover crinkle. HEAT... Bought my Tourer new in Dec. of '97. It started crinkling at the letter box corners a few years later and just worsened over time. To my knowledge, not a drop of gasoline or other chemical has come in contact with the alt. cover. What I did witness was some pretty serious warping of the cover a few months after I painted it. Damn It-all that work wasted. The direct cause was HEAT. It warped while I was synchronizing the carbs. I sync'd via a 6-line ATF homemade setup that took awhile because of it's accuracy and that a slight adjustment for a final fine tune to a single carb would throw 3 or more carbs off. I finally gave up on perfection before I noticed what an hour of runtime heat had done to my alt. cover. Box Fan Didn't help cool the the rear case or alternator. Although the paint held up the ABS warped quite a bit. Gasoline may contribute to the OEM Chrome crinkle effect, but I definitively saw what heat does to the cover. Add to which you can see in the pic of the peeled cover that it's slightly warped on the left face. That's why I had to fill prior to painting to conceal the warped ABS. I doubt gasoline is going to warp ABS, maybe if it's submerged in a can of gas for a few days it would. Sorry, I don't feel even repeated spills will crinkle the chrome. I'm convinced it's heat... And will remove my alt. cover from now on to prevent damage while running the engine for any service beyond 10-15 minutes. Nothing to do if your caught in 90* slow moving road construction. It's gonna get hot and crinkle. -Dennis
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« Last Edit: July 14, 2011, 06:35:49 PM by DFragn »
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Willow
Administrator
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Posts: 16719
Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
Olathe, KS
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« Reply #26 on: July 14, 2011, 08:06:56 PM » |
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Gasoline may contribute to the OEM Chrome crinkle effect, but I definitively saw what heat does to the cover.
I'm convinced it's heat... And will remove my alt. cover from now on to prevent damage while running the engine for any service beyond 10-15 minutes.
Nothing to do if your caught in 90* slow moving road construction. It's gonna get hot and crinkle. I believe you may be on to something. Mine has never sat still with the engine running for more than a few minutes.
I ride in all kinds of temperatures. I consider ninety degrees to be ideal.
Of course we're both making general judgements based on our own experiences, by definition samples too small to be meaningful.
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RP#62
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« Reply #27 on: July 14, 2011, 08:13:36 PM » |
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I think its a combination of things rather than any one thing. Mine sees more heat in my garage than most people's do riding. During the summer, the temp in my garage seldom goes below 100ยบ. There are advantages though - I don't have to start it to warm the oil up prior to oil changes. -RP
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Skinhead
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Posts: 8734
J. A. B. O. A.
Troy, MI
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« Reply #28 on: July 15, 2011, 05:16:22 AM » |
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That cover comes off with one bolt, If heat is suspected culprit, I'd remove the cover before syncing carbs or removing the tank if gasolene is the curprit. I suspect either or both could cause it.
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 Troy, MI
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Ice
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Posts: 1223
Whatever it is, it's better in the wind.
On a road less traveled.
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« Reply #29 on: July 15, 2011, 05:44:21 AM » |
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I feel better now, mine started the chrome crinkle a few years back and I was thinking that I just got lucky and got the one made on Monday morning from the guy with the major hangover....  now I see that it is a far more common problem. " A Hard day on a Motorcycle, is far better than a good day at the Office"
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