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Author Topic: Wanna steal a "Hardly" part...  (Read 2475 times)
YoungPUP
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Valparaiso, In


« on: July 17, 2011, 06:32:51 PM »

Saw an Oil pressure gauge on a coworkers softtail. Braided hose up the side of the engine with a pressure gauge on the end. Anyone already beat me to this? Or am I wandering into uncharted waters. I know that there are electronic gauge kits available, but I like the mechanical look of this setup. was Thinking of getting another block plug ( the one that is removed for the electronic sender) and drilling and tapping it to accept a braided line then mounting the gauge on the end, and mounting the end on the engine guard.  Thoughts? Instructions? Concerns? angel
« Last Edit: July 17, 2011, 06:51:46 PM by YoungPUP » Logged

Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!

99 STD (Under construction)
Gear Jammer
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Yeah,,,,,It's a HEMI

Magnolia, Texas


« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2011, 07:15:06 PM »

Motosens makes an oil pressure gauge along with the hardware to install it.  The sending unit goes into the engine case at front left lower corner. Perhaps you can buy just the sending unit and use whatever gauge you choose. I don't know if theirs is specific to their gauge or not.

http://www.motosens.com/usa/f6c_e.htm
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"The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living.
Dirty Dave
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Montreal, Canada


« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2011, 07:24:53 PM »

KISS.  My reminder to "keep it simple stupid". Had an oil pressure gauge leak drive me crazy when travelling across North America in '77. You still have the "idiot" light" . I love the simplicity of the stock Valk Standard. IMHO
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Gear Jammer
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Posts: 3074


Yeah,,,,,It's a HEMI

Magnolia, Texas


« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2011, 08:09:37 PM »

NOT trying to start a fight! But there's a good reason its called an idiot light....

 Lips Sealed   Roll Eyes   angel
« Last Edit: July 18, 2011, 06:41:24 AM by Gear Jammer » Logged




"The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living.
X Ring
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VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2011, 08:45:48 PM »

Why not use an electric gauge instead of a mechanical.  That way you only have to run wires instead of a line that may break spraying you and the bike with hot oil.  You could run the wires through a braided line if you wanted that look.

Marty
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RP#62
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Gilbert, AZ


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« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2011, 09:27:50 PM »

Like this?
-RP



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Walküre
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Nothing beats a 6-pack!

Oxford, Indiana


« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2011, 09:59:23 PM »

Like this?
-RP


I was hoping we'd see RP's work - I NEVER tire of seeing his "goodies"! Wish I had a machine shop, and the talent. With a machine shop, I think I'd gain a little of the talent - because I'd be making "metal whiskers" all the time!

thanks, RP - as always, an inspiration.

RP...the OTHER RP....
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2000 Valkyrie Standard
1999 Valkyrie Interstate
2000 HD Dyna Wide Glide FXDWG

Roger Phillips
Oxford, IN
VRCC #31978

Yeah, what she said...
RP#62
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Gilbert, AZ


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« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2011, 05:26:11 AM »

Thanks Roger.
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Gear Jammer
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Yeah,,,,,It's a HEMI

Magnolia, Texas


« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2011, 06:36:49 AM »

Like this?
-RP







Ohhh, Oil filled gauge  cooldude  Very Nice  Smiley
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"The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living.
dreamaker
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Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #9 on: July 18, 2011, 07:52:02 AM »

My opinion idiot light is what it is. to me it is not simple it is rolling the dice or last ditch. From experience cast iron seems forgiving where alum. seems to late. I cases when the light comes on sometimes its to late, like warped heads. I like gauges let me know what is going on. I use AutoMeter   for about 6 years plus still working good. Fraction of the price of Motosen. For the price they are almost throw away.



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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #10 on: July 18, 2011, 08:10:54 AM »

I've had the Autometer C-2 oil pressure gauge installed for at least six yrs., maybe longer, with no problems. You just use an adapter for the different threads...metric to I think it's pipe on the sender. Just remove the OEM sender and install the adapter, then the sender, run the wires and mount the gauge. One thing I found out from the factory, if the battery is weak when you start the bike you'll sometimes not get a reading. Let it run a bit, shut off and restart and now it works. Something to do with low voltage at the gauge, scared the crap out of me on a trip once.

Small left gauge is temp, small center is fuel, small right side is oil pressure. I've since added a fairing, the gauges tuck in nicely underneath it.
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TomE
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« Reply #11 on: July 18, 2011, 11:10:08 AM »

Fuel, hmmm...

I would like a fuel gauge on my Standard, but it definitely is lacking in the "fuel sender" department. What's the easiest way to deal with that?

Thanks,

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Walküre
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Nothing beats a 6-pack!

Oxford, Indiana


« Reply #12 on: July 18, 2011, 01:47:06 PM »

The EASIEST way, is an EXPENSIVE way, unless you're really, really lucky.

You can buy a gas tank off an Interstate, which has the built-in sender. Then you can buy one of several different fuel gauges, that are set to the stock sender - Motosen is one, that has one designed just for the Valk, there are others that are "programmable" to the Valk. Do a search, for others.

The expense is in finding one, usually $500 and up, and if you aren't lucky enough to find one in YOUR colors, you need to have it painted, then there's the cost of the gauge. So, it's conceivable to have $750+, into a fuel gauge, going that route. But, you DO get an extra 2 gallons of fuel, and associated distance between fills, that way.

There are other ways, if you do a search - one even has two fittings brazed in, high and low on your tank, with clear tubing in between. Gets the job done, though...   Grin uglystupid2

Roger
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2000 Valkyrie Standard
1999 Valkyrie Interstate
2000 HD Dyna Wide Glide FXDWG

Roger Phillips
Oxford, IN
VRCC #31978

Yeah, what she said...
YoungPUP
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Posts: 1938


Valparaiso, In


« Reply #13 on: July 18, 2011, 05:42:56 PM »

Thats the thought RP! Could I pry the details out of you, such as where to get the hose and adapter. I know I've got a million places to source a gauge ( Jegs, Summit, Fleabay, ) and I know I can get the adapter from motosens (sp?) if I can't source that locally. The only concern has been that hose. Was thinking Russel???
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!

99 STD (Under construction)
RP#62
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Gilbert, AZ


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« Reply #14 on: July 18, 2011, 06:11:03 PM »

Thats the thought RP! Could I pry the details out of you, such as where to get the hose and adapter. I know I've got a million places to source a gauge ( Jegs, Summit, Fleabay, ) and I know I can get the adapter from motosens (sp?) if I can't source that locally. The only concern has been that hose. Was thinking Russel???


I ordered the gage and hose from J&P.  The gage is J&P Part Number: 5700075.  The hose is a replacement hose from an Arlen Ness kit (J&P Part Number: 720-943 or 740-590 - don't remember which).  F*&^*& hose cost more than the gage.  Now the tricky part. I machined a T-fitting that has male 1/8-BSP threads, female 1/8-BSP threads and female 1/8-NPT threads.  I unscrewed the stock oil pressure switch, and replaced it with my T-fitting and screwed the stock OP switch into the 1/8-BSP port on the fitting.  The oil pressure hose I got was too short to reach the front of the engine to the T-fitting.  This proved to be a good thing as there's not much clearance to snake it between the lower engine mount and the engine.  To make up the difference, I got a short length of 1/8" tubing and joined it to the hose with a union and connected the other end to a 1/8-NPT fitting that I had screwed into the other port on the T-fitting. It fit through the gap between the mount and the engine no problem (see pic)



The other tricky part was machining the bracket to hold the gage.  I wanted it to be near the oil temp gage, so I machined a bracket that would pick up on one of the cam end cover bolts.  There's probably several ways to do this.  I hope I gave you some ideas.
-RP

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YoungPUP
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Valparaiso, In


« Reply #15 on: July 19, 2011, 02:34:51 AM »

Thanks for the info. I hadn't thought about using the port for the pressure switch.  Now to start rounding up the bits and pieces.  Thanks all. cooldude
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!

99 STD (Under construction)
Fudd
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MSF RiderCoach

Denham Springs, La.


« Reply #16 on: July 19, 2011, 08:56:31 AM »

My opinion idiot light is what it is.
The idiot light is part of the multimedia aproach.  You see the light come on.  You hear the bearings knock.  You smell the engine burning.  And you feel the bike coast to a stop, all at about the same time.

Seriously, have any of you ever heard of an oil pump failure on a Valk?
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bigguy
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VRCC# 30728

Texarkana, TX


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« Reply #17 on: July 19, 2011, 09:52:46 AM »

The idiot light is part of the multimedia aproach.  You see the light come on.  You hear the bearings knock.  You smell the engine burning.  And you feel the bike coast to a stop, all at about the same time.


 2funny

Seriously, have any of you ever heard of an oil pump failure on a Valk?


No, but I've heard of Hydro-lock. 
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TomE
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« Reply #18 on: July 19, 2011, 01:22:46 PM »

My opinion idiot light is what it is.
The idiot light is part of the multimedia aproach.  You see the light come on.  You hear the bearings knock.  You smell the engine burning.  And you feel the bike coast to a stop, all at about the same time.

Seriously, have any of you ever heard of an oil pump failure on a Valk?

I like this. Yes, that's about how it works.  Wink

I had low oil pressure on my '75 wing, which is at least similar to the Valk, and it eventually ended up with a broken crank shaft. The root cause was worn bearings from age and miles. I would expect a  high mileage Valk to do about the same thing.
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Mosa
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« Reply #19 on: July 19, 2011, 02:15:53 PM »

RP, man UR still the master of gadget creation... nice job bubba!

Mosa
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RP#62
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Gilbert, AZ


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« Reply #20 on: July 19, 2011, 05:43:53 PM »

RP, man UR still the master of gadget creation... nice job bubba!

Mosa

Thanks Tim.  Howya been doing?
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