Test ride questions...

[The Anvil]

Okay, so the bike (99 Valk in black/orange) is in IMMACULATE physical condition. There is absolutely nothing on visual that does not pass muster, though the front tire has a little cupping I suspect from under-inflation, it handled fine though and everything appears tight. But what I did notice that the engine ran strong but there was a lot of noise coming from under the tank. Ticking (PAIR valve?), howling during acceleration, that kind of stuff. It has stock pipes and it had a shield on and I had no earplugs in so I was hearing everything. My bike has Cobra 6X6's and at the moment no shield and I almost always ride with plugs so this kind of noise may be normal. I know my ZX7 used to tick and howl like a banshee.

Another thing I found odd was that the clutch engagement was really close to the grip, unlike my bike which is way out there. Though this could be due to a new clutch or should that be a concern? It shifts fine and there's no slippage or anything else that would throw a red flag and the fluid was very light in color.

I told my buddy that I think I'd make the deal contingent on the dealer doing a carb synch and a good going over of the fuel system and vacuum lines. I also mentioned it all to the sales guy and he said up front that doing this stuff was no problem.

[bigfish_Oh]

knowing the price effects what I do, I would probably want to offer less and solve possible minor non issues myself. If it's no problem they either has a lot of profit involved or it will be a crappy job. The only thing worse than a stealer is a salesman. I have to figure out and go over a knew to me bike anyway, just because. some guys clean/clean/clean, I would rather tweak.

Their's enough help here.

[Gear Jammer]

Noise from under tank (ie engine) was what I found when I bought mine from a dealer.  I changed to Mobil 1  15w/50 oil and it quieted down a lot.  If the seller is good to go with those requests, I'd say go for it if the price is right.  

[The Anvil]

I maybe should have mentioned that the dealership owner is actually a personal friend of the person I test rode it for. Eddie and I have both bought a few machines from them over the years and we've had good experiences. This helps with my comfort level a lot because I typically do not trust dealers as far as I can toss them.

They're asking 6500 but Eddie (buyer) got Paul (dealership owner) down to 6 even with several original parts (like the OEM seats which are in great shape) coming with the bike. I told Eddie that that stock exhaust has to go and that if he's interested in pipes then he should talk to Paul now about doing that while they have the bike apart for a going over anyway. Either that or we can mod the stockers like the other valk owner in our group does.

As far as the fixing stuff yourself goes, I totally hear that. It's just that neither one of us has the spare time these days to do it. It's all I can do to find the time to put my drag bars on some time this week.

[RoadKill]

Transmission gears are straight cut and howling is normal,ticking may be pair valve but solid lifter tappets do have slight lash noise...may need adjusted. That is what Valks sound like with quiet exhaust and it is more noticeable with a fairing as well.

[Tropic traveler]

Transmission gears are straight cut and howling is normal,ticking may be pair valve but solid lifter tappets do have slight lash noise...may need adjusted. That is what Valks sound like with quiet exhaust and it is more noticeable with a fairing as well.

Agreed with Roadkill.
After riding a Cobra equipped Valk then hopping on a OE piped Valk will make you hear everyone of the Valkyrie's many little noises. As to the howling, it most likely is the gears. The gear howl is more pronounced on my '99 than it is on either my '97 or Kim's '98. Not the first time I've heard '99 owners comment on louder gear noise.

BTW.... You have a Valk, & now one of your riding buddies is making an offer on a Valk ............................... Careful, you may slowly being indoctrinated into the cult!!!    

[highcountry]

You didn't mention the mileage on the bike but it sounds like a very reasonable deal, especially from a dealer. 

[Valkahuna]

+1 on what the others said about noises.

If it has a Kuryakyn Tranny cover, it really magnifies any transmission noise. Changing to Amsoil 10W40 really made mine quieter again.

Also, I really understand and agree with what you say about it being tough to find time to do things anymore. Life keeps getting into the way of my "two wheeled" alterlife.

[The Anvil]

Thanks for the replies guys. I hadn't thought about the gears being the source of the howl. I just attributed it to intake noise which I've had experience with.

[Bobbo]

And the clutch engagement point near the grip can be just old fluid.  A flush and refill will usually solve the problem.  Might as well do the same for the brakes.

[Bama Red]

Orange would never be my first color choice (nothing to do with H-D, just can't stand orange), but it seems you're being offered a righteous deal on a good bike, depending on mileage. I'd go for it!

[bscrive]

Another thing I found odd was that the clutch engagement was really close to the grip, unlike my bike which is way out there. Though this could be due to a new clutch or should that be a concern? It shifts fine and there's no slippage or anything else that would throw a red flag and the fluid was very light in color.

Mine did that a few years ago, I rebuilt the master and it was good again.

[PhredValk]

If there's a small, numbered dial on the clutch lever, it's the Kuri adjustable GL1800 lever, and it can change the friction point on the lever to just about anywhere. I put the Kuri levers on my IS for just that reason, had to let the clutch out over 3" to find the friction point; now it's a bit less than 2" and just right.
Fred.

[Big Rig]

That noise under the tank could be a aircleaner box not quite seated properly...don't ask me how I know. When you pull the tank, change the vent lines and then make sure that box is seated ALL the way down.

Good luck, and don't trust the stealer to do anything except RIP YOU OFF!!! 

[The Anvil]

Well it looks like Eddie is going down there tomorrow to do the deal. I'll keep you guys posted and thanks again for all the help.

Phred, I did not notice any adjustment dial but then again I was not looking for one.

Bscrive (can I just call you B-money?) did the master cylinder rebuild kit come with the rubber boot that goes over the piston where the lever actuates it? While installing my drag bars today I noticed that the one on my clutch is shredded and pretty much gone. And when you say "did that" do you mean it engaged way out or close to the grip? I'm thinking mine is in need of a rebuild.

Oh and I got the drag bars installed with the new throttle cables (in case you're wondering, 4" SHORTER than stock works perfectly for 8" riser drag bars). I took all the measurements and I'm going to order the brake and clutch lines tonight. I still need to re-route the wiring through the bars and looking at it I think I'm gonna need to add some length to the wires which sucks but it is what it is. I'll get to that later. It looks kinda messy but it's safe to ride.

[bscrive]

My clutch was almost at the handle.  So much so that if I held it there for a while, like at a long red light, the bike would start to creep forward because the fluid was seeping past the rubber gasket and starting to engage the clutch.
The rebuild kit comes with everything.  Just make sure that you put the rubber gasket in the middle of the plunger the correct way or you will not have any clutch.  You will need to lubricate the rubber gasket to put it on and choose your curse words before you start, especially if you realize afterwards that you put the rubber gasket backwards.  Use the old one as a reference and remember which way the spring fits.

Brian

[Chiefy]

And the clutch engagement point near the grip can be just old fluid.  A flush and refill will usually solve the problem.  Might as well do the same for the brakes.

Mine was low.  Added fluid, good as new.  Although a flush is on the list.

[The Anvil]

My clutch was almost at the handle.  So much so that if I held it there for a while, like at a long red light, the bike would start to creep forward because the fluid was seeping past the rubber gasket and starting to engage the clutch.
The rebuild kit comes with everything.  Just make sure that you put the rubber gasket in the middle of the plunger the correct way or you will not have any clutch.  You will need to lubricate the rubber gasket to put it on and choose your curse words before you start, especially if you realize afterwards that you put the rubber gasket backwards.  Use the old one as a reference and remember which way the spring fits.

Brian

Excellent, thanks.

[The Anvil]

He's buying it and we're picking it up in the AM. The dealer agreed to do a carb synch and give everything under there a good going over. I'll post pics of the happy new owner and see if I can't get him to jump on the forum. He's much less of an asshole than I am.