Brakes?

[Hedgehog]

Went out for the first ever ride on my 1997 Rumble Bee yesterday - it was brilliant - everything I could have wanted.  :cooldude:Great sound, handling excellent. Plenty of power. And of course the pride from riding something so eye catching.

Just one problem - front brakes hardly seemed to work at all  - takes quite a squeeze. Is this normal?

Seems like new pads just fitted (blue backing plate visible) - so may need scribbing in, but back brake is much better than front.

Any ideas folks? ???

Is it worth replacing the hoses with braided steel?

What are the best pads etc.?


Many Thanks

Dave

[9Ball]

did you flush and bleed the lines?  Fresh brake fluid and proper bleeding will definitely help.  I would try this before considering the new braided lines...and yes, braided SS lines will improve the feel.

You should also flush the clutch fluid while you're at it.  Makes a noticeable difference.  This is something that should be done every 24 months regardless of mileage.  It's easy enough that a lot of us even do this each year as part of the spring prep.  Speedbleeders or a mity vac make this a one person job...I prefer speedbleeders and have them on all three of our bikes.

[Chrisj CMA]

Went out for the first ever ride on my 1997 Rumble Bee yesterday - it was brilliant - everything I could have wanted.  :cooldude:Great sound, handling excellent. Plenty of power. And of course the pride from riding something so eye catching.

Just one problem - front brakes hardly seemed to work at all  - takes quite a squeeze. Is this normal?

Seems like new pads just fitted (blue backing plate visible) - so may need scribbing in, but back brake is much better than front.

Any ideas folks? ???

Is it worth replacing the hoses with braided steel?

What are the best pads etc.?


Many Thanks

Dave

blue backing plate.  That dont sound like OEM.  If you got so soft organic pads they are going to by mushy compared to a regular pad.  You rotors will last forever using them but you pay in stopping power

[hubcapsc]

A properly working OEM front brake system should be very good...

When I first got my Valkyrie, I flushed the brake fluid, crammed in new brake pads, and
called it good... later I removed the calipers, popped their pistons out and cleaned
everything up (the caliper is a brutal and dirty focal point of action) and when it
was back together, it was really good...

-Mike

[Ricky-D]

"Just one problem - front brakes hardly seemed to work at all  Shocked- takes quite a squeeze. Is this normal?"

All depends upon what you consider "quite a squeeze"

There are no power brakes on the Valkyrie.

The front brakes of the Valkyrie are the best stoppers ever.

***

[rocketray]

my front brake never was much good...always at least a two hard finger hard sqeeze....I had read in motorcyclist magazine about some EBC dual sintered pads for cruisers that they claimed would bring sport bike stopping power so I got some and a galfer stainless steel front brake line-$220 labor to install at the local honda shop!!! they said they had to modify the brackets..... just rode it this afternoon and it is settling in   ..they say 250 miles of riding to bed in    but yes it looks like I am going to get that nice one finger sqeeze like my wife's vtx 1300 has!!

[tmfp]

My front brake is brilliant, have me over the bars if I squeeze it too hard. I probably use the back brake more than most people and have just replaced the rear pads with sintered HH EBC's, not the full race ones.
I realise the rotor may wear out quicker but the combined stopping power is awesome now.

[Hedgehog]

Definitely something wrong with mine then. The rear was not too bad, but the front produces only gentle deceleration - less than engine braking and less than the back. No dive on the forks at all.

Even a muppet like me suspects that that aint right.

Ordered some OEM pads and new steel lines. Will also be stripping and cleaning all pistons and seals and flushing out the fluid.

Could do without the expense, but can't mess with brakes.

Thanks for all the help. Appreciated.

HH

[old2soon]

Just a little ground work. No bragging OR complaining here. 99 i/s. Replaced all my brake pads with O E M pads. I'm 66 years and counting. My hand strength leaves something to be desired and my arthritis makes some days very interesting. It takes a little effort to use the front brake but it WILL haul you down from legal and illegal speeds rather nicely. I keep a tool bag and a water jug on the bike at all times along with extra riding gear=always heavy. In short-i REALLY like how this Valkyrie stops when i need it to stop. A couple of my friends on H/Ds were very impressed on how well this thing stops. When it comes time again to replace the brake pads it's a no brainer-O E M. RIDE SAFE.

[Mildew]

I have "0" back brakes. Went over 300 miles yesterday without them. I almost crashed twice and almost ran into my buddies brand new Vulcan.  I bled them and added new fluid on my rear tire change. I don't know what I did wrong but I found out how much I used those brakes yesterday the hard way

[The Anvil]

As they come from the factory the stock brakes on the Valk work okay. But they can be kept working well by regular cleaning and bleeding and improved dramatically with aftermarket lines. Adding the EBC HH pads did nothing but add noise. They sit in my toolbox now.

Hedgehog, before taking those pistons out make sure you have replacement seals handy. And make sure you clean out your reservoirs really well before bleeding in those dry lines (and have plenty of fresh fluid on hand because bleeding dry lines takes a while). But you're gonna love the brakes when you get em working right.

[Ricky-D]

If you are having a braking problem, it is surely important to get it corrected.

A look at the brake fluid ought to give you a clue to the problem, especially if it is brown in color which would mean that it is time for a fluid change.

Barring anything unforeseen I would think that may cure the problem if you do a good job of changing the fluid completely in the master cylinder and the calipers.

That is what I would suggest to do and during the operation you will be able to tell if the master cylinder is working properly. You'll be able to feel how well it is working since it is basically just a pump and should be smooth and easy when depressing the lever.

You'll find a lot of overstatement regarding replacing the stock components of your Valkyrie with aftermarket offings but there is nothing 2nd class about the Honda original equipment so I would suggest the main thing to do is to get it all in good working order first.

***

[Rio Wil]

Definitely something wrong with mine then. The rear was not too bad, but the front produces only gentle deceleration - less than engine braking and less than the back. No dive on the forks at all.

Even a muppet like me suspects that that aint right.

Ordered some OEM pads and new steel lines. Will also be stripping and cleaning all pistons and seals and flushing out the fluid.

Could do without the expense, but can't mess with brakes.

Thanks for all the help. Appreciated.

HH

I just have to ask......what does the brake lever do when you get a hand full. Does it meet any resistance, have a spongy firmness, go completely to the grip?
Also, by chance do you have a aftermarket brake lever with a little dial on it with the numbers 1-5.
PS....save your ss brake line money for gas.......I suspect 95% of us have OEM brake systems and have survived rides all over the country including Canada and Alaska in all kinds of weather and terrain conditions. Stock Honda oem front brakes are just fine, you have either a mechanical or hydraulic issue to fix first.

[The Anvil]

You'll find a lot of overstatement regarding replacing the stock components of your Valkyrie with aftermarket offings but there is nothing 2nd class about the Honda original equipment so I would suggest the main thing to do is to get it all in good working order first.

I disagree. But you WILL find a lot of comments from people who have no idea what they're talking about.

[Hedgehog]

Thanks guys,

This is the most helpful and friendly Forum I've ever been on.

The fluid is clean and the (OEM)  lever meets strong resistance - so my guess is on seized pistons and / or substandard brake pads that also are fresh and not scrubbed in.

Its going into the local Stealer tomorrow for a tire change (Avon Cobras) and I've bought Goodridge lines also. Gonna get them to do a complete front brake strip - new pistons and seals and return all pads F and R to OEM.

If that doesn't do it, I'm a Banana.


Reassuring that when they are sorted they will work well.

Was worried at first.

HH

[The Anvil]

Its going into the local Stealer tomorrow for a tire change (Avon Cobras) and I've bought Goodridge lines also. Gonna get them to do a complete front brake strip - new pistons and seals and return all pads F and R to OEM.

Goodridge makes good stuff. The factory Honda and Kawasaki MotoGP teams use Goodridge lines.