Stratnick
Member
Posts: 52
2000 I/S
West Tennessee
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« on: October 08, 2011, 03:07:29 PM » |
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Hi. I'm brand new to this site and have a question about my 2000 I/S with 62,000 mi. Upon cold starting without using the choke lever, it runs smoothly, however, after warming up, cyls 1,3,5 pipes pop and don't idle smoothly like 2,4,6. Also, after warm up, it stumbles just above idle, but smooths out somewhat at higher rpms. If I engage the choke lever, it smooths out and runs nicely.
Here's what I have done so far (not much): checked valve clearances all ok but #3 intake was tight;
cleaned KN air filter; tightened all bands around the intake boots; checked all vac. lines. I am assuming that there is an air/fuel problem, I just don't know where to begin.
Thanks in advance for any insight you all may have.
Nathan
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sandy
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« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2011, 06:44:14 PM » |
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Run some Seafoam or Techron through a tankful. After that, adjust the pilot screws and have the carbs synched.
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Stratnick
Member
Posts: 52
2000 I/S
West Tennessee
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« Reply #2 on: October 08, 2011, 07:17:16 PM » |
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Run some Seafoam or Techron through a tankful. After that, adjust the pilot screws and have the carbs synched.
Thanks. Have run one tank of seafoam and it ran better while it was in the gas. Got worse after seafoam ran out. Have some more in there now. I have wanted to adjust the pilot screws but don't have a tool to do it with. Tried to make one today and it worked, but I can't get my fingers in there to turn them. Have found a tool on ebay has 90 degree and has the D adapter for about $60. Thanks for your input. |
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Chiefy
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« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2011, 07:17:22 PM » |
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Hi. I'm brand new to this site and have a question about my 2000 I/S with 62,000 mi. Upon cold starting without using the choke lever, it runs smoothly, however, after warming up, cyls 1,3,5 pipes pop and don't idle smoothly like 2,4,6. Also, after warm up, it stumbles just above idle, but smooths out somewhat at higher rpms. If I engage the choke lever, it smooths out and runs nicely.
Here's what I have done so far (not much): checked valve clearances all ok but #3 intake was tight;
cleaned KN air filter; tightened all bands around the intake boots; checked all vac. lines. I am assuming that there is an air/fuel problem, I just don't know where to begin.
Thanks in advance for any insight you all may have.
Nathan
If not for the running smooth un-choked and cold, I'd say it's classic of clogged slow jets. You have some of the symptoms of clogged jets, so as Sandy said, run some Seafoam through it. Use a heavy dose, and putt around for awhile at low RPM. Let it sit overnight, and run it around some more the next day. Might be all it needs. |
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 1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles |
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Chiefy
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« Reply #4 on: October 08, 2011, 07:20:11 PM » |
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By the way. Did you just get this bike and it was doing it when you got it? Were you riding regularly and it came out of the Blue? Was it sitting without running for several months? More info is helpful.
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1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles |
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Stratnick
Member
Posts: 52
2000 I/S
West Tennessee
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« Reply #5 on: October 28, 2011, 07:05:27 PM » |
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By the way. Did you just get this bike and it was doing it when you got it? Were you riding regularly and it came out of the Blue? Was it sitting without running for several months? More info is helpful.
As far as I know it has not been sitting. The PO had recently returned from an 1100 mi trip and said it ran great...and it does, as long the engine is running about 2200 rpms or higher, with a load on the engine. I have noticed recently that after riding a while, and the engine is good and warm, it takes it a few seconds to return to idle...it wants to hang at around 1500 rpms a couple seconds. I've worked on carbed engines in cars for years and it acts like it's getting too much air after it heats up. When I got the bike, the so called carb guru at the stealer adjusted the carbs after replacing a split vacuum line. He monkeyed with them for a while then told me to ride and see what I thought. It ran pretty good, but had that slight stumble just off idle. Sea foam took most of it away, but it returned when sea foam was used up. I bought a 90 degree carb adjust tool with the D fitting and checked the pilot screws and they were all different...one was not even opened a half turn...so much for the carb guru! anyway, I turned them all 1 and 1/2 turns out and it really helped! More power and smoother running, but it still acts like it's getting too much air after warming up. The uneven running seems to only be on the right bank 1,3,5 cyls. Left side does not appear to act up at all. I recently checked valve clearances and only the intake on #3 was tight...not much at all, but tight. I have also cleaned the K&N air filter and tightened the bands around the intake hoses, which were all loose on both sides. I know I've said a lot, but maybe that sheds a little more light on what's going on. Thanks again for any suggestions! |
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keepinon
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« Reply #6 on: October 28, 2011, 08:04:17 PM » |
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Check your intake runner o=rings. Mine had a slight ...burble... when throttling down, new o-rings cured the problem.
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1998 GL1500 CT Trike
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Chiefy
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« Reply #7 on: October 28, 2011, 09:04:48 PM » |
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Most guys run the AF 2 to 2 1/2 turns out. Might want to set them there and see where you stand. Mother Honda (in my experience) sets their bike carbs way too lean. My VTX was the same, much too lean.
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1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles |
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Stratnick
Member
Posts: 52
2000 I/S
West Tennessee
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« Reply #8 on: October 28, 2011, 11:00:17 PM » |
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Most guys run the AF 2 to 2 1/2 turns out. Might want to set them there and see where you stand. Mother Honda (in my experience) sets their bike carbs way too lean. My VTX was the same, much too lean.
On the pilot screws, does turning them out enrich or lean the air/fuel mixture? |
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Stratnick
Member
Posts: 52
2000 I/S
West Tennessee
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« Reply #9 on: October 28, 2011, 11:06:48 PM » |
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Check your intake runner o=rings. Mine had a slight ...burble... when throttling down, new o-rings cured the problem.
I have considered the intake orings. There is slight discoloration around # 3's intake pipe where it attaches to the head...like fuel has leaked out around it. I Will replace them asap. Thanks for confirming my suspicions. Hopefully I will get the same results that you got! |
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Blackduck
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« Reply #10 on: October 29, 2011, 03:37:59 AM » |
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If it runs well cold then starts to play up as it warms up it is sign it is rich.
Check the spark plug colours.
Very unusual. Does it have stock needles in the carbs?
The only other thing I can think of is an over oiled K&N and a vacuuum leak on the side that is playing up.
Cheers Steve
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2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
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Stratnick
Member
Posts: 52
2000 I/S
West Tennessee
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« Reply #11 on: October 29, 2011, 05:57:32 AM » |
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If it runs well cold then starts to play up as it warms up it is sign it is rich.
Check the spark plug colours.
Very unusual. Does it have stock needles in the carbs?
The only other thing I can think of is an over oiled K&N and a vacuuum leak on the side that is playing up.
Cheers Steve
Interesting that you would mention spark plug colors. On the side that is acting up, 1 and 5 are black and sooty. # 3, the one I suspect is leaking air is totally absent of soot. How should I interpret that? I dont know about stock needles or if the carbs have been modified and the filter is not over oiled. I followed the directions carefully when serviced it. I am becoming convinced it is a vacuum leak around one or more intake runner orings. Thank you! |
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« Last Edit: October 29, 2011, 06:08:46 AM by Stratnick »
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Chiefy
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« Reply #12 on: October 29, 2011, 06:26:31 AM » |
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Turn pilot in for lean, out for rich. http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/diagnosis.htmI'm from the "Keep it simple" camp. I'd reset the pilots, and put in new plugs, then evaluate where I stand. I don't consider myself much of a Motorcycle wrench. But I do fix machines for a living. Some things a machine Dr. learns early on is make one change at a time, and start with the obvious. |
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1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #13 on: October 29, 2011, 08:23:27 AM » |
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Interesting that you would mention spark plug colors. On the side that is acting up, 1 and 5 are black and sooty. # 3, the one I suspect is leaking air is totally absent of soot. How should I interpret that?
I dont know about stock needles or if the carbs have been modified and the filter is not over oiled. I followed the directions carefully when serviced it. I am becoming convinced it is a vacuum leak around one or more intake runner orings. Thank you! The explanation is just that! The leaky O-ring on #3 is actually a vacuum leak allowing the gas/air mixture to be lean. Hence the difference in the sparkplugs. It sounds like the carburetors have been messed with and maybe also modified with aftermarket products. The question would be is: Are you running an aftermarket exhaust system? That would be a clue as to carburetor fiddling. The over-running you are concerned with could be mainly a need for synchronization of the carburetors. But, until you find out what is the state of modifications with the carburetors and the same for the exhaust system, any reliable analysis of your problems is mostly pie in the sky. *** |
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Stratnick
Member
Posts: 52
2000 I/S
West Tennessee
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« Reply #14 on: October 29, 2011, 09:01:53 AM » |
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Interesting that you would mention spark plug colors. On the side that is acting up, 1 and 5 are black and sooty. # 3, the one I suspect is leaking air is totally absent of soot. How should I interpret that?
I dont know about stock needles or if the carbs have been modified and the filter is not over oiled. I followed the directions carefully when serviced it. I am becoming convinced it is a vacuum leak around one or more intake runner orings. Thank you! The explanation is just that! The leaky O-ring on #3 is actually a vacuum leak allowing the gas/air mixture to be lean. Hence the difference in the sparkplugs. It sounds like the carburetors have been messed with and maybe also modified with aftermarket products. The question would be is: Are you running an aftermarket exhaust system? That would be a clue as to carburetor fiddling. The over-running you are concerned with could be mainly a need for synchronization of the carburetors. But, until you find out what is the state of modifications with the carburetors and the same for the exhaust system, any reliable analysis of your problems is mostly pie in the sky. Yes...it does have aftermarket exhaust system. I think its a cobra system with custom tips and extensions. *** |
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Blackduck
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« Reply #15 on: October 29, 2011, 04:15:37 PM » |
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What colour were the plugs on the other cylinders?
#3 could be taking in extra air or it is correct and 1 & 2 are running rich.
Pull the top off one of the carbs and check the needle, aftermarket needles have small E clips on them to position the needle. Stock only have 1 washer under them.
Cheers Steve
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2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
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