Paint/Clearcoat question...Not Valk Related

[Davemn]

Last year I converted a Kawi Vulcan into a bobber. Very fun project. I used rattle cans of high quality auto paint on it. Used 5 coats of clear from the same supplier on top of the basecoat. Last night I dribbled so gas on the tank and it ate into the clear coat. Didnt appear to get down into the paint tho. So whats the best fix? Wet sand? Buff? Redo the clear?

[The Anvil]

Rattlecan clearcoats are worthless IMO. Anything in a rattle can is going to be a finish that "dries" (a mixture of a finish and an evaporating volatile component, usually a solvent, that leave a tack-free, clear covering) as opposed to a two-part product that "cures" (a product that actually converts from a liquid to a solid through a catalyst component). I've tried a bunch and and there's no rattlecan product I've found that gives you a rock-hard clear without using a two part clear with a hardening component like what's used in bodyshops.

[DFragn]

I stood my tank [mostly empty] on it's nose over night and had a slight dribble. It went through the OEM clear and wrinkled the OEM stripe tape for .75" worth of it. I only re-pinstripe tapped an inch and a little touch up clear [clear pen from ColorRite] and left it alone!!! I didn't want to repaint the tank.

Yep, professional clear with hardener is best.

With rattle cans from ColorRite I did my fairing & pods. It's a urethane paint & clear.
2-3 coats of color and 2 coats clear. Any more clear and it could yellow.

Also, if you spray 3 coats color and 3-5 coats clear it won't dry for 2 years or more, if ever!

I finally got it right the second time on my fairing. Live & learn...Don't over do with urethane rattle cans.

My fairing was completed several years ago and is holding up extremely well. Looks just as good as when I did it. And, no orange peel either...unlike the oem job Honda does.