Temp guage-Dipstick calibration

[Tundra]

Is there a way to check/calibrate the Temp guage-Dipstick? Mine seemed to be running "hot" according to the guage, although no other indications. I was cruising at 3000 rpm and the guage/dipstick read 215 degrees. That can't be right.   

[lee]

Put a pan of water on the stove.  Bring it to a boil. (212 degrees F.)  Put the end of the
dipstick in the boiling water.  If it reads 212 then its right on.  However I don't think  you
will find 1 out of a 100 that will read perfect.  I used a marking pen and marked  the 212
point.  Mine was low reads 208 when it should be 212.  Hope this helps.

[Jess from VA]

The open-air boiling point of water is typically considered to be 100 °C or 212 °F.  So, if you get some water boiling on the stove, and stick your dipstick in it, it should read close to this.

Do you run synthetic, and is it topped up?  Is your coolant fresh (enough)?  Last coolant change, I added some water wetter (just a treatment, not a lot).

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp

[98valk]

its best to have your oil temp at least that temp. why worry?

[BF]

Water boils at 212 at sea level.  Water will boil at a lower temp at a higher altitude   (I think, unless I've got that backwards).  You being in Florida, should be good with that test. 

[Tundra]

I was curious because my buddies Valks never get over 200 Degrees highway, 180 degrees local riding. I have fresh synthetic oil and fresh coolant and didn't think the bikes would vary that much in operating temperature, although my carbs are dialed in lean and I run a Dyna 3000 ignition, maybe I run hotter?
Thanks for your input, I will post my results.

[Jess from VA]

my carbs are dialed in lean and I run a Dyna 3000 ignition,

 
I'll bet that is your reason.   Leaner is always hotter.

I only get to and over 200 on the hottest days and traffic.

In FL, I might tweak that a bit in Summer, if it goes higher yet.

[Robert]

The real question is my engine really running that hot? Take a infrared gun and point it at the top radiator inlet and see what it says. that will tell you how hot your coolant is. I would find it hard to believe that your engine is running that hot if you are running at highway speeds because oil does get hotter than the coolant. Usually car oil in a engine running at highway speeds will get in the 225 to 250 range without a problem even when the coolant is 200 to 212. But if you do some local low speed driving where does it stay. This would be more accurate than at highway speeds because it will rely on the coolant to get it up to temp and will run pretty close to the coolant temp wise. I agree with the boiling water but use a meat thermometer or candy thermometer to have a standard to compare to and don't let them sit on the bottom of the pan when its on the stove because the temp wont be accurate. It needs to be suspended in the water to really get a good comparison.  You are not to far from me and Water Wetter would definitely help as far as temp even if you don't have a problem its just a good additive to help get the most out of your cooling system. Almost forgot to add they are adjustable I think there is a nut in the shaft on the bottom of the gauge if you turn the shaft independently of the gauge it will adjust the needle to gauge and therefore adjust the displayed temp.

[Airetime]

Is there a way to check/calibrate the Temp guage-Dipstick? Mine seemed to be running "hot" according to the guage, although no other indications. I was cruising at 3000 rpm and the guage/dipstick read 215 degrees. That can't be right.   

These do go out of calibration as it is easy to just grab the face of the dipstick and screw it in after using it "BUT" that is wrong way to use it as it may change the calibration. 
 
If you have been screwing it back in by grabbing the face, rather than using the nut to tighten it, it probably will need recalibrating, at least check it against another to make sure that it is still reading correctly.
How to test it correctly is also in the link. 

They can be recalibrated by simply turning the hex nut. The link below shows how. Hope that helps!
Easy Re-calibrateing the Tel Tru Stick http://www.teltru.com/cats/01204001/01204001.pdf

[john]

my tru-temp reads 215  now and then ...   
after ride'in 80 - 90 mph for a while ...   
 oil  reads about half way  to the groove on the tru-temp dipstick
after oil change ...
speed limit or under it never goes over 200   
 
 

[Tundra]

  Airtime, Robert, Beltsanders, Lee, Jess, John, CAExhaust Coatings, Thanks all for taking the time to respond with great information and links...Time for my results. My oil temp-dipstick guage was  EXACT. It quickly rose to 212 degrees and stopped at 212 degrees. I repeated this for accuracy sake, results were the same each time. With this being said, my oil is so clean I can hardley see it, all my other fluids are changed annually. Clutch, brake, rear end, radiator. Coolant is full and fresh. I guess my question now is for those of you with the temp-guage. What do you all run at? The last change I did was re-installing a new Dyna-3000 Ignition, could that cause me to run 15 degrees hotter than I remember? What do you all with exhaust mods, K&N airfilter and Dyna Ignitions run at?

[R J]

Normally run 200 + or -, in the oil unit......

Unless it is hot out and I'm hammering it, then it will go higher.....

Have no idea what my water temp runs.  Fan don't come on too often so I'm not worried about it.

[Airetime]

  Airtime, Robert, Beltsanders, Lee, Jess, John, CAExhaust Coatings, Thanks all for taking the time to respond with great information and links...Time for my results. My oil temp-dipstick guage was  EXACT. It quickly rose to 212 degrees and stopped at 212 degrees. I repeated this for accuracy sake, results were the same each time. With this being said, my oil is so clean I can hardley see it, all my other fluids are changed annually. Clutch, brake, rear end, radiator. Coolant is full and fresh. I guess my question now is for those of you with the temp-guage. What do you all run at? The last change I did was re-installing a new Dyna-3000 Ignition, could that cause me to run 15 degrees hotter than I remember? What do you all with exhaust mods, K&N airfilter and Dyna Ignitions run at?

Years ago, I wanted to put together a temp/dipstick that would not fog over like the Two Brothers brand that was being made. After much help received from other Riders and research on this site, I teamed up with Tel Tru as their gauges were hermetically sealed and thus would not allow moisture inside. They were about the best around and had been in business for many years. The gauges are accurate as long as they were inserted properly. I did not spend the time to help develop them for profit as I received $0 from any produced, I just wanted one that worked well and they do. I got to keep the proto-types and I run about 210 - 220 most of the time. Why such a difference for you? I really don't know as it could have been out of calibration before and the nut could have been turned. Remember that this is the temperature of the oil and not the water as there is a difference.

[John J]

I hate to show my ignorance - but what is 'water wetter' and how does it work?

[Robert]

Questions no problem, as for water wetter its a additive for the cooling systems that promotes heat transfer. Here is the link to the sight
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp
I have found that there are differences in oil temp from one engine to another of the same type sometimes, and its usually nothing to worry about and almost impossible to track down. Running lean may do it but its doubtful because when they come from the factory they are lean but without the dyna and just a timing advance will not account for that much heat. A easy test is to change the advance curve of the dyna and take a run and see what the temp is. I have the dyna,jet kit, exhaust,k&N,Mobil One 20/50 motorcycle oil, Mobil One 75w/140 rear end oil, 40 thousands gap on the plugs,Dyna coils, smoothed intakes,balanced the carbs,baffle removed from air box,water wetter, 180 thermostat and she runs really good. Water temp is usually 180 unless I am in traffic then it takes awhile but temp goes up till the fan kicks on usually 208, Fan on for a minute then kicks off. This is all measured with a infrared gun at various points and running situations. I have never put the dipstick gauge on her because I wanted other goodies first so didn't want to spend the money on something I felt wasn't really necessary.

[Tundra]

Airtime, Robert, Thanks again  Airtime, that's about what I'm currently running at 3000 rpm @65 mph and above 210-220 degress on the Tel-Tru guage. Running under 65 mph 180-200 degrees. Mine is absolutely accurate, according to my tests. Maybe THEIR guages are off! Robert, Thanks for the link, looks like a good product, I'll try!

[98valk]

Questions no problem, as for water wetter its a additive for the cooling systems that promotes heat transfer. Here is the link to the sight
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp
I have found that there are differences in oil temp from one engine to another of the same type sometimes, and its usually nothing to worry about and almost impossible to track down. Running lean may do it but its doubtful because when they come from the factory they are lean but without the dyna and just a timing advance will not account for that much heat. A easy test is to change the advance curve of the dyna and take a run and see what the temp is. I have the dyna,jet kit, exhaust,k&N,Mobil One 20/50 motorcycle oil, Mobil One 75w/140 rear end oil, 40 thousands gap on the plugs,Dyna coils, smoothed intakes,balanced the carbs,baffle removed from air box,water wetter, 180 thermostat and she runs really good. Water temp is usually 180 unless I am in traffic then it takes awhile but temp goes up till the fan kicks on usually 208, Fan on for a minute then kicks off. This is all measured with a infrared gun at various points and running situations. I have never put the dipstick gauge on her because I wanted other goodies first so didn't want to spend the money on something I felt wasn't really necessary.

Why would u use a 180 thermo? u are losing thermo dynamic power, its an aluminum engine and heads which disipates heat much faster than cast iron. 20w50 actually runs hotter than a lower weight oil. unless u are in the desert in 100degree plus temps at high speed, the engine is not being correctly lubricated with 20w50 oil. These engines are not big block cast iron engines from the '70s where as low water and oil temps were required. Do u do this to your modern everyday driver, 20w50, low water temps, etc?
 An engine starts to accelerate wear when it has a water temp of 180degree and lower. Stay with the stock thermo which actually starts to open at 180. Modern day oils have additives that fully perform after they are at 200 degrees and above. not to mention that once oil is above 200 degrees then water and acids are burned off increasing the life span of the oil and bearings signifigantly.