Fasted
Member
Posts: 29
My Lone Wolf
New London PA
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« on: October 19, 2011, 08:23:55 AM » |
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My 1998 CT, 16K miles (9K from 98 to 2010) the last 7K is mine since 9/10. If I'm not extra careful, the front brake grabs just before a smooth stop. At about 1 or 2 mph it locks and the stop is a jerk. It happenes a little more with a passanger. I'm 230 lbs passenger 120. I had the fluid flushed and replaced last fall.
Any ideas?
ED
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #1 on: October 19, 2011, 08:40:27 AM » |
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Hell, that is such a subjective issue I would suggest simple continue being careful and see if the issue goes away. I feel most times the answer to these questions can be attributed to operator practices.
Check the calipers for loose bolts and the brake pads for wear.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Jack
Member
Posts: 1889
VRCC# 3099, 1999 Valk Standard, 2006 Rocket 3
Benton, Arkansas
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« Reply #2 on: October 19, 2011, 08:49:06 AM » |
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As Ricky said plus clean area for any oil/grease contamination.
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"It takes a certain kind of nut to ride a motorcycle, and I am that motorcycle nut," Lyle Grimes, RIP August 2009.   |
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Richythebluesman
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« Reply #3 on: October 19, 2011, 09:18:13 AM » |
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Remove the lever, clean throughly both the lever and pin, also the mating surface on the grip, lube with white grease and re-install.  Has brake fluid been replaced? What is the color? |
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Fasted
Member
Posts: 29
My Lone Wolf
New London PA
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« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2011, 09:17:00 AM » |
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I waited till I had some miles on the bike to see if it is me or the bike. With 7,000 miles in a year and it's still happining, I feel it is the bike not me (I had 30K on my last bike so I'm not a novice rider).
Yes fluid was replaced last year, and it looks clear. I'll go over the points you guys suggest this week-end.
ED
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #5 on: October 21, 2011, 07:44:56 AM » |
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Probably some of the reason they are developing ABS for bikes.
CA made a comment some time ago about residue from brake pads remaining on the rotor which might could cause that "servo" effect. So cleaning the rotor could possibly be a cure.
Worn rotors may contribute to the problem.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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The Anvil
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« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2011, 07:52:13 AM » |
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Don't waffle around with brakes. Either fully check it out yourself or have someone who knows what they're doing take a look at them. Taking a "wait and see" approach with brakes is a bad idea.
Moving forward is optional. Stopping is mandatory.
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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Grumpy
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« Reply #7 on: October 21, 2011, 11:52:03 AM » |
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Thanks, guys. I've had a number of motorcycles over the years, and always had to learn what is a problem, and what is "normal" for each. If a CB900C shifted like a Valkyrie, you would know the end is near!
Today the Valkyrie rotors got a brake cleaner wipe-off and the situation improved. Not vanished, but improved. I just cleaned those two weeks ago when I had the front wheel off. I didn't see any wear when I had it all apart, and with 6,800 miles on it, none should be expected.
My favorite brake material has been Ferodo for the British bikes and SBS Scandanavian for Hondas. Any of you have experience with these on a Valkyrie?
Thanks / Pluggy
Use OEM pads, others accelerate rotor wear, and just do not work as well as the originals. Sounds like your pads may have some contamination on them, if the PO had a leaking fork seal, could have saturated the pads. Every time they heat up, it will redeposit oil back on the rotor.
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 Life is like a hot bath. It feels good while you’re in it, but the longer you stay in, the more wrinkled you get. |
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Valker
Member
Posts: 3018
Wahoo!!!!
Texas Panhandle
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« Reply #8 on: October 21, 2011, 01:55:11 PM » |
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I'd also check for leaking brake fluid on the pads/rotors. Just a bit of that will cause the symptoms you mention.
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I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #9 on: October 21, 2011, 10:45:23 PM » |
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Take a look at the wear on the pads....is it reasonably equal on all pads. I suspect you might have a frozen piston on one caliper.
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FryeVRCCDS0067
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« Reply #10 on: October 22, 2011, 03:16:48 AM » |
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If there is any chance that someone has put aftermarket pads on the bike or that the pads have gotten contaminated with something then I'd replace them with new OEM pads. Since cleaning the rotor made a difference I'd really wonder about some kind of contamination.
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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice. And... moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue.'' -- Barry Goldwater, Acceptance Speech at the Republican Convention; 1964  |
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3W-lonerider
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« Reply #11 on: October 22, 2011, 04:51:52 AM » |
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i had a bike in my garage a few years ago.guy complained about the front brakes grabbing ever since he owned it..what i found was when the lever was pulled back far enough to start applying rake pressure the handle was binding up..then more pressure had to be applyed. hense the brake handle would move more that you wanted it to and the brakes would grab. what i found was the bushing where the mounting bolt went down threw was to long i files the bushing down even with the handle on both sides..re-installed the handle and everything was fine after that. he took it for a test ride and was amazed at the results. by the way this was a factory handle not an aftermarket. course i think an after market could be the same way if the bushing was to long.
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Fasted
Member
Posts: 29
My Lone Wolf
New London PA
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« Reply #12 on: October 24, 2011, 05:26:24 PM » |
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Thanks for all the replies. My daughter had a baby Saturday afternoon, so all motorcycle stuff went on the back burner for now.
When I get a chance I'll go over your ideas, I really don't think the problem is up at the lever or master cylinder, and there are no leaks.
Like Pluggy says, it's an annoyance more than anything. A brake caliper hanging does sound possible or pad material, but with only 9k to start I don't think the pads have been changed.
On my cars I don't use OEM pads, I use Hawk street performance pads, are there good aftermarket pads for the Valkyrie?
When I get some time I'll do more testing.
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Fasted
Member
Posts: 29
My Lone Wolf
New London PA
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« Reply #13 on: November 09, 2011, 04:16:28 PM » |
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Pluggy and all,
No on S-100 or any other cleaner, no leaks, no sticking lever, no resadue on the rotos. And to Anvil I've been working on brakes for 50 years. I used to road race and did most of my own work, all my own brake work.
I did some testing today, the grabbing is temperature related. I did some hard braking, onece the brakes got hot there was no more grabbing. Even when I let them cool off a little. I stopped for lunch, about half hour, when they were cold they grabbed again, just one agressive stop and no grabbing.
I've see a chart on Hawk brake's operating temps. They make car pads from street to full race, each pad has a different operting range, the more agressive the pad the more stopping power and a higher operating range.
I think over the winter I'll change the front pads, any suggestions?
ED
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John U.
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« Reply #14 on: November 09, 2011, 05:06:06 PM » |
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Some after market brake pads will wear out the OEM rotors much quicker than stock pads. Others with experience with after market pads will probably chime in but be careful. The generally held opinion here is to use stock pads with stock rotors.
Organic pads seem to be easy on rotors but may give up some stopping power.
I wonder if your pads could have been contaminated with brake fluid or something. Your description of how they are acting is not in line with my experience with OEM pads.
New OEM pads and some fine sandpaper might fix the problem.
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