Tricks of the trade

[wiseguy]

Hi everyone, I was just thinking that there are alot of tricks to the trade of mechanics that are not being passed on, so I would like to start with one of my favorites,
Using toilet paper and water to remove bushings or bearings from a blind hole.
 You will need a hammer, punch that is close to the same size as the I.D. of the bushing/bearing, a roll of toilet paper,and a glass of water. Soak some tp in the water and push it in the bushing/bearing. Using the punch to compress the tp. repeat this process until you have enough compressed tp that it hydraulics the bushing/bearing and you will see it start to lift the bushing/bearing out of the hole. It is a very clean process and it works every time. So if you do not have a bushing/bearing removal tool you can use this process with 100% success.
Another is Using Bon Ami powder cleanser to restore tired cyl with low compression,
 Do a wet test to detirmine if the low compression is from weak rings and not weak valves. Install a compression guage, crank the engine over until the guage stops rising. note the reading on the guage.(squirt some oil in the cyl. and install a compression guage, crank the engine over until the guage stops rising).If the compression goes up then the rings are weak, if it stays the same then the valves are weak. Remove the spark plug and put a couple of teaspoons of Bon Ami in the cyl. and turn the engine over (leave the spark plug out) and it will scour the cyl. wall and help to reseat the rings. You will need to repeat the the process a few times.
This will not repiar weak valves. Please help to pass on some of your favorite tricks.
Guy

[R J]

Hard to reach spark plugs.

After ya have them loose, slip a piece of wiper hose over the end of the plug and turn it out.    Same for installing same back in the hole.   Also, less apt to strip out an aluminum head if you use a hose to start it.    Can't get enough poop on the hose to cross thread it.

Hose length is about 4 to 6".   Some V6's a longer piece is needed for the back side plugs.    Very prominent with a Pontiac, well GM engines in general.   The Pontiac dealer I used to drive shuttle for, some of the techs would drop the engine via the front suspension cradle so as to get to those plugs.    They got pretty damn quick at it also.   Customer still paid only for the standard hour charge.

[holderd]

Use valve grinding compound on the tip of a phillips head screwdriver to remove a worn/rounded out phillips screw.
I have successfully used grease in place of the toilet paper in the tip mentioned in the first post.

[John Schmidt]

Do you ever have trouble getting the short bolts to catch the nut when reattaching the battery cables? Cut a short piece of 5/32" hose and slip it under the nut and leave it there. It holds the nut up against the bottom where the bolt comes through, and the nut won't fall out when you remove the battery.

[YoungPUP]

Rusty nut and bolt. Heat to glowing with a torch, and apply a birthday candle or crayon to the edge where the nut and bolt meet. Will usually come right off.  Side note: birthday candles stink like hell when you burn them this way....

[jer0177]

Some V6's a longer piece is needed for the back side plugs.    Very prominent with a Pontiac, well GM engines in general.   The Pontiac dealer I used to drive shuttle for, some of the techs would drop the engine via the front suspension cradle so as to get to those plugs.    They got pretty damn quick at it also.   Customer still paid only for the standard hour charge.

If you pull the dogbone mount at the top of the radiator, you can 'roll' the whole engine forward enough to be able to reach those plugs from the top.  Used to do it all the time when I turned wrenches.

[RonW]

This is not my idea but something that was submitted on another m/c forum that I'm at ....

You can use 'canned air' to instantly chill bearings instead of prefreezing the same bearings overnight. The bearing will be at it's coldest for the install. The way it works is that you hold the aerosol container upside down to spray the bearing. That's to spray out the colder liquid-fied layer instead of the gaseous portion. *With 'canned air' the valve draws from the top unlike most aerosol cans, which have a straw that draws from the bottom of the can.* Canned air does not have the internal straw. So if you can imagine held upside down this places the liquid layer at the bottom of the aerosol can just above the valve that you press with your finger. Also, canned air has a single ingredient a portion of which is compressed into liquid under pressure unlike a mixture of chemical (paint, insecticide, deodorant, etc.) plus propellant to atomize the chemical component. To get the most of this, stop spraying intermittently to allow the pressurized ingredients to chill up. The action of spraying reduces the liquid-fied proportion. If you've ever used 'canned air' to dust off your computer that's why the metal can chills up but at the same time inside the can the ingredients are becoming warmer ..... the colder liquid-fied portion is turning into warmer gas. The reverse of a heat exchange so to speak. You don't want the gaseous state. Just the liquid. Another option is to take turns spraying with two cans, then you won't have to stop spraying the bearing intermittently.

[The Anvil]

This is not my idea but something that was submitted on another m/c forum that I'm at ....

You can use 'canned air' to instantly chill bearings instead of prefreezing the same bearings overnight. The bearing will be at it's coldest for the install. The way it works is that you hold the aerosol container upside down to spray the bearing. That's to spray out the colder liquid-fied layer instead of the gaseous portion. *With 'canned air' the valve draws from the top unlike most aerosol cans, which have a straw that draws from the bottom of the can.* Canned air does not have the internal straw. So if you can imagine held upside down this places the liquid layer at the bottom of the aerosol can just above the valve that you press with your finger. Also, canned air has a single ingredient a portion of which is compressed into liquid under pressure unlike a mixture of chemical (paint, insecticide, deodorant, etc.) plus propellant to atomize the chemical component. To get the most of this, stop spraying intermittently to allow the pressurized ingredients to chill up. The action of spraying reduces the liquid-fied proportion. If you've ever used 'canned air' to dust off your computer that's why the metal can chills up but at the same time inside the can the ingredients are becoming warmer ..... the colder liquid-fied portion is turning into warmer gas. The reverse of a heat exchange so to speak. You don't want the gaseous state. Just the liquid. Another option is to take turns spraying with two cans, then you won't have to stop spraying the bearing intermittently.

There is also something called "freeze in a can" that is essentially the same thing. It works pretty well.

[Skinhead]

Just dip them in liquid nitrogen and avoid all that rot.

[The Anvil]

Just dip them in liquid nitrogen and avoid all that rot.

I was gonna suggest that too but I don't want to be responsible for someone breaking their hand off.

[Brian]

Hard to reach spark plugs.

After ya have them loose, slip a piece of wiper hose over the end of the plug and turn it out.    Same for installing same back in the hole.   Also, less apt to strip out an aluminum head if you use a hose to start it.    Can't get enough poop on the hose to cross thread it.

Hose length is about 4 to 6".   Some V6's a longer piece is needed for the back side plugs.    Very prominent with a Pontiac, well GM engines in general.   The Pontiac dealer I used to drive shuttle for, some of the techs would drop the engine via the front suspension cradle so as to get to those plugs.    They got pretty damn quick at it also.   Customer still paid only for the standard hour charge.

I have used a old plug wire end from a set of wires that used the straight boot for the plug. This has served me well for many years and came from old wires that were being thrown out anyway.

[Tx Bohemian]

Hard to reach spark plugs.

After ya have them loose, slip a piece of wiper hose over the end of the plug and turn it out.    Same for installing same back in the hole.   Also, less apt to strip out an aluminum head if you use a hose to start it.    Can't get enough poop on the hose to cross thread it.

Hose length is about 4 to 6".   Some V6's a longer piece is needed for the back side plugs.    Very prominent with a Pontiac, well GM engines in general.   The Pontiac dealer I used to drive shuttle for, some of the techs would drop the engine via the front suspension cradle so as to get to those plugs.    They got pretty damn quick at it also.   Customer still paid only for the standard hour charge.

I have used a old plug wire end from a set of wires that used the straight boot for the plug. This has served me well for many years and came from old wires that were being thrown out anyway.

I did the plug wire thing too but last few years I use a 3/8" gas hose that goes over the ceramic of the plug.  To me it's a little more angle control, better to grip and it still won't allow cross-threading.
Of course I'm not sure what kinda wiper hose RJ is talking about, maybe close to the same stuff.

[R J]

Hard to reach spark plugs.

After ya have them loose, slip a piece of wiper hose over the end of the plug and turn it out.    Same for installing same back in the hole.   Also, less apt to strip out an aluminum head if you use a hose to start it.    Can't get enough poop on the hose to cross thread it.

Hose length is about 4 to 6".   Some V6's a longer piece is needed for the back side plugs.    Very prominent with a Pontiac, well GM engines in general.   The Pontiac dealer I used to drive shuttle for, some of the techs would drop the engine via the front suspension cradle so as to get to those plugs.    They got pretty damn quick at it also.   Customer still paid only for the standard hour charge.

I have used a old plug wire end from a set of wires that used the straight boot for the plug. This has served me well for many years and came from old wires that were being thrown out anyway.

I did the plug wire thing too but last few years I use a 3/8" gas hose that goes over the ceramic of the plug.  To me it's a little more angle control, better to grip and it still won't allow cross-threading.
Of course I'm not sure what kinda wiper hose RJ is talking about, maybe close to the same stuff.

Same stuff.     We have 4 rolls of various size rubber hose,  I usually grab a spark plug, stick it int hose and if it goes over the ceramic and is fairly tight, I grab the dyke's and snip away.   I now have a long nail in the wall right below the hoses that I stick my piece of hose over for the next time it is needed.     

[stude31]

For those dealing w/ hydrolocks.... save 300 bucks from buying honda special tools:

Pull the sparkplug from one of the cylinders and drop a rope down the plug hole and turn the motor until it won't turn anymore.  Now you stopped the motor from turning over and you can torque the mainshaft nut and the clutch birdcage nut down to spec's of 137ft lbs. Saves you 300+ dollars on honda tools.  Just did this.. I had done this on small engines but never hit me until a buddy mentioned it.  Worked like a charm!!

[Chrisj CMA]

For those dealing w/ hydrolocks.... save 300 bucks from buying honda special tools:

Pull the sparkplug from one of the cylinders and drop a rope down the plug hole and turn the motor until it won't turn anymore.  Now you stopped the motor from turning over and you can torque the mainshaft nut and the clutch birdcage nut down to spec's of 137ft lbs. Saves you 300+ dollars on honda tools.  Just did this.. I had done this on small engines but never hit me until a buddy mentioned it.  Worked like a charm!!

Seems logical.......however, wouldnt it be important to pick a cylinder that is on compression stroke to "rope" knowing that at that point both valves are closed.  Im just thinking that if a valve is open and the rope gets between the piston and the open valve, it could be a bad thing.

I guess if I had thought of it, I would have dismissed the idea for fear that the aluminum head might not take the strain on one little point of impact

[Madmike]

For those dealing w/ hydrolocks.... save 300 bucks from buying honda special tools:

Pull the sparkplug from one of the cylinders and drop a rope down the plug hole and turn the motor until it won't turn anymore.  Now you stopped the motor from turning over and you can torque the mainshaft nut and the clutch birdcage nut down to spec's of 137ft lbs. Saves you 300+ dollars on honda tools.  Just did this.. I had done this on small engines but never hit me until a buddy mentioned it.  Worked like a charm!!

Seems logical.......however, wouldnt it be important to pick a cylinder that is on compression stroke to "rope" knowing that at that point both valves are closed.  Im just thinking that if a valve is open and the rope gets between the piston and the open valve, it could be a bad thing.

I guess if I had thought of it, I would have dismissed the idea for fear that the aluminum head might not take the strain on one little point of impact

have done this lots on powersaws but the don't have valves in teh head so not a problem that way - I agree that it would be important to make sure that the cylinder was TDC on compression to ensure that the valves don't get bent.

[blackvalk]

I ran across this old post about penetrating oils.

I did not write it but I did find the home brew worked well on a rusted hinge on a Chevy side door hinge that is notorious for rusting up.

Take a look, they are items most of us have in our garages.

Bill

Penetrating Oils Compared

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrates for break
out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a
subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. Results
relative to 'naturally rusted' conditions considered equivalent in standing.

Penetrating oil ........... Average load

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............. 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds

The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew"
mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.

Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this
one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and
all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid
Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price

I plan on mixing up some of the home brew after I use up my PB Blaster which I had always thought was the best of the lot.... ....its seems according to the test that liquid wrench which I had used for years had almost 100 lbs. difference from the newer products..
 
 
 
 
 

[Jess from VA]

Always have someone else hold the nail before you smack it with a hammer.