YUASA YTX20HL-BS HIGH PERFORMANCE BATTERY?

[Paxton]

I'm having some problems caused by what APPEARS to be the battery.  

AGE OF BATTERY: Unknown...
CONDTIONS: Trickle Charger Connected Overnight. Next day was 70 (F) degrees. Light Traffic.

SYMPTOMS' CHRONOLOGY:
AT First, she cold-started w/no problem. I traveled one mile (1.61 Km). Parked her for 1 hour. Came back... DEAD on Arrival.
Push-started her...  

I traveled 40 miles to the family dinner. Shut her off at their garage and plugged-in the Trickle Charger on @ 2A.  
Four hours later, started fine. However, while idling for one minute, I found it necessary to shut her off, so I did.  
Five minutes later... lights are bright; horn OK but DEAD again!  

Push-started her and traveled 42 miles... got home and shut her off. After 1 minute, she started fine.  

Frankly, I am confused. The same scenario has played twice before.  

I ordered this new battery, as the suspect one is over two years old. No telling ... the P.O. passed on.  
YUASA YTX20HL-BS BATTERY SPECS: CAPACITY 18ah, 310 cca.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120493845307?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I do understand that the problem could be elsewhere... What do you think?  ???

[PAVALKER]

I'm having some problems caused by what APPEARS to be the battery.  

AGE OF BATTERY: Unknown...
CONDTIONS: Trickle Charger Connected Overnight. Next day was 70 (F) degrees. Light Traffic.

SYMPTOMS' CHRONOLOGY:
AT First, she cold-started w/no problem. I traveled one mile (1.61 Km). Parked her for 1 hour. Came back... DEAD on Arrival.
Push-started her...  

I traveled 40 miles to the family dinner. Shut her off at their garage and plugged-in the Trickle Charger on @ 2A.  
Four hours later, started fine. However, while idling for one minute, I found it necessary to shut her off, so I did.  
Five minutes later... lights are bright; horn OK but DEAD again!  

Push-started her and traveled 42 miles... got home and shut her off. After 1 minute, she started fine.  

Frankly, I am confused. The same scenario has played twice before.  

I ordered this new battery, as the suspect one is over two years old. No telling ... the P.O. passed on.  
YUASA YTX20HL-BS BATTERY SPECS: CAPACITY 18ah, 310 cca.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120493845307?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I do understand that the problem could be elsewhere... What do you think?  ???

I would recommend that if you don't have the necessary testing equipment, that you go to one of your local auto stores to have your battery tested.  They could also check your charging system to make sure it is charging properly.

What concerns me about your testing remarks above is the comment...   
Five minutes later... lights are bright; horn OK but DEAD again! 


Could be the starter switch if the lights are bright and horn is ok.  I don't know what you mean when you said that.  Did the lights dim when you attempted to start it... and what did it do when you tried to start it... did it crank and die, lights go dim or what?

[wdvalk]

starter switch?,they can cause some funky symptoms

[x]

I'm having some problems caused by what APPEARS to be the battery.  

AGE OF BATTERY: Unknown...
CONDTIONS: Trickle Charger Connected Overnight. Next day was 70 (F) degrees. Light Traffic.

SYMPTOMS' CHRONOLOGY:
AT First, she cold-started w/no problem. I traveled one mile (1.61 Km). Parked her for 1 hour. Came back... DEAD on Arrival.
Push-started her...  

I traveled 40 miles to the family dinner. Shut her off at their garage and plugged-in the Trickle Charger on @ 2A.  
Four hours later, started fine. However, while idling for one minute, I found it necessary to shut her off, so I did.  
Five minutes later... lights are bright; horn OK but DEAD again!  

Push-started her and traveled 42 miles... got home and shut her off. After 1 minute, she started fine.  

Frankly, I am confused. The same scenario has played twice before.  

I ordered this new battery, as the suspect one is over two years old. No telling ... the P.O. passed on.  
YUASA YTX20HL-BS BATTERY SPECS: CAPACITY 18ah, 310 cca.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120493845307?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I do understand that the problem could be elsewhere... What do you think?  ???

I would recommend that if you don't have the necessary testing equipment, that you go to one of your local auto stores to have your battery tested.  They could also check your charging system to make sure it is charging properly.

What concerns me about your testing remarks above is the comment...   
Five minutes later... lights are bright; horn OK but DEAD again! 


Could be the starter switch if the lights are bright and horn is ok.  I don't know what you mean when you said that.  Did the lights dim when you attempted to start it... and what did it do when you tried to start it... did it crank and die, lights go dim or what?

Lights bright?  Horn works?  Won't turnover?  Serious sign of a bad cell in the battery.  A common Valk trait.  Enough power for the light, not enough to kick over.

[Paxton]

Thank you all for your comments... keep 'em coming... 

PAVALKER;
The "behavior" is as described by Strong Eagle. No cranking at all...

I do have the same concerns you raise and yes, after the new battery is installed, I plan taking her to the Honda dealer. 
I'll ask for a general diagnosis and, if necessary, to fix other problems.  ???

To expand on your questions, when I said DEAD I meant that everything else is OK (no light dimming ever; Horn and Signals OK) ...
but it won't turn the starter at all...  no clicks, no noises... just dead with bright lights and everything else working properly. 

"Curiosity killed the Cat, but for a while I was a Suspect"
Steven Wright

[Willow]

To expand on your questions, when I said DEAD I meant that everything else is OK (no light dimming ever; Horn and Signals OK) ...
but it won't turn the starter at all...   no clicks, no noises... just dead with bright lights and everything else working properly.  

Light should go out when you hit the starter.

I don't think you've a battery problem.  I think you may have a switch problem.

If you push started it you've enough battery to fire it.  Takes more to fire a Valk than to turn the starter.

I'd spend more time confirming the issue before spending money on a new battery.

[highcountry]

If you are using a car charger set on 2 amps, you might be overcharging/destroying your battery.  Get a battery tender if you don't have one.

[Dougger]

I just had the same problem with my Honda  van. Battery not strong enough the crank. That is why the rate them as to cranking power.\New Battery

[Jess from VA]

Don't forget to check your battery cable connections. (tight and clean)

[Paxton]

Dougger;
You might be absolutely correct as to the overcharging. Indeed, I read 'bout that elsewhere.
I do have a small trickle-charger made by Black & Decker. I've had it since '07 and have used it sporadically; always @ 1A.

I know I should have set it @1A, but I was desperate, hoping for a faster charge!
Also, a New Battery was already on my list.

So, I am alternatively using the trickle charger on my other two bikes; always @ 1A. It works well.

[bogator]

 I used a trickle charger on my boat battery a few years ago, forgot it was on , and late one nite, I was woke up with a loud bang----battery had exploded---acid every where----still has spots on the boat----but, I will never use a trickle charger again--just my 2 cents--

[DFragn]

My vote is the starter switch.
Buy a $10.00 multi-meter and check the volts on the battery. If your over 12.5 v look to the switch.

From Shop Talk Pages: #7  Dead Starter Switch.  You have power but starter switch produces no results.  Kill switch is in correct position, bike is in neutral etc.  This switch can stick in the "kill the headlight" position and will not activate the starter.  There is a hollow space under the button that you can GENTLY pry out a bit and retry.  Not a great fix, but at least it may get you to the dealer.  You can prevent this from happening by R&Ring the switch before it fails.

At no cost it's easy to open and clean the starter switch. Just go slowly so the little springs don't shoot out & then never to be found.

[PAVALKER]

You can tell quite a bit from putting an inexpensive multimeter on the battery terminals.  You can see the voltage drop when attempting to start and the voltage increase during charging (running). 

Check all connections to be clean and tight, check battery voltage (and make sure there is water/acid  in the cells before you charge it).