Left bank won't fire

[poppabear_093]

standing at the rear of the bike, the left bank the front two plugs fire and if unplugged will make the bike studder the left is just the opposite. only one firing. she won't idle unless the choke is fully on when she warms up you can tell she's weak could it be my coils? Battery will not hold a charge but I have a jell cell for it in the morning. HELP!!!! I miss my baby, also carbs have been cleaned tree times with the same result. Seafoam has been put in it No Help, O rings tightened Nothing!!   

[lucky_1_chris]

Are the plugs fouled? Have you checked to see if you're getting spark from the plug boots?

[YoungPUP]

Mark the coils, and swap to the right bank. see if the issue follows. If you;ve had the front coil off the frame( left side of the frame under tha tank) make sure that the ground wire was reattached when it was reinstalled.   Let us know what you find

[John U.]

You stated "left" twice, but assuming that one side fires properly and the other side only idles with the choke on I would have to say that clogged slow jets are your problem.
You can try Techron, it's more agressive than Seafoam. Use a heavy dose, give it time to work.
It's also possible that you have rust in your tank that is helping to clog the slow jets. Cleaning the tank, perhaps coating it with epoxy and a fuel filter should help that situation. An inspection mirror and flashlight will tell the story.
I use Marine Stabil in every tank to avoid ethanol clogging of the slow jets. Without it, I get partial clogging symtoms after only 4 or 5 days of non-use.

[Michvalk]

It's also possible the battery is causing the problem. Don't do anything to the bike until you put the new battery in and run it then. If the battery you have in the bike won't hold a charge, your bike won't run worth a crap. Valkyries NEED all the power that the battery can produce to run like they should. The dead battery is probably pulling the charge from the alternator and causing the bike to run bad. I could be wrong, but you already have the battery, why not give it the chance?

[Blackduck]

Remember coils fire 2 cylinders so if it is a dodgy coil there should be a cylinder on the other side playing up.
Do all cylinders fire if you raise the rpm? If they fire at raised rpm you either have a vacuum leak or as suggested a clogged jet. Guessing by the description it is No 6 that is missing, have you checked the vacuum line going to the petcock?
With the choke being needed it sounds more like a vacuum leak.
Cheers Steve

[poppabear_093]

Yep in my frustration I said left twice, (the right does just the opposite). It's been just me lately so to rev and check sparks is out of the question. I will put the new battery in tomorrow  it should be fully charged (new but just to make sure).And hope for the best. One thing though if one coil works for two cylinders, I have two on the right and one on the left. Something is wrong with that math....... Just a though for the guru's out there. This is the first time I have had a problem. All the vacuum lines have been replaced trying to figure this one out.

[3W-lonerider]

i know you said the carb's have been cleaned twice.. i went threw the same identical thing this past spring. cleaned the carbs bike ran perfect, 1 day later 2 cyl. missing on one side and 1 cyl. missing on the other. cleaned carbs again. 1 day later same damn thing. installed new slow jets and everything was fine again. i'd seriously be looking at those slow jets.i don't care how many times they've been cleaned.

[Attic Rat]

I had one just like it in the shop the other day. When I finished my performance work on the engine and got it all back together it had a dead miss on # 6.   I tried changing plugs, coils, wires and ign moduel but nothing. I pulled the carbs back off that I had already cleaned and ck the jets they were fine. It turned out to be the orings to the air cut off valve on the carbs.. So I called Red eye and ordered one of his kits and O/H all of the carbs. It fixed the problem and the bike ran great.

[old2soon]

I had one just like it in the shop the other day. When I finished my performance work on the engine and got it all back together it had a dead miss on # 6.   I tried changing plugs, coils, wires and ign moduel but nothing. I pulled the carbs back off that I had already cleaned and ck the jets they were fine. It turned out to be the orings to the air cut off valve on the carbs.. So I called Red eye and ordered one of his kits and O/H all of the carbs. It fixed the problem and the bike ran great.

 If memory serves you be using Big Daddy Ed Roths Rat Fink?? Let me know please whether i be correct or incorrect please. T I A. RIDE SAFE.

[poppabear_093]

Well got the new battery in and fired her up. Right away the rpm's jumped up to around 3ooo then just as fast stayed at about 800 with the choke fully on. Right bank ok, left bank weak. After 10 minutes of hanging around 800 she started to climb I had to keep working the choke to keep it around 1500 - 2000.  Suddenly after about 30 minutes of idling the left bank woke up and the lady started to roar. She still barely isles with the choke off but it's  running double dose seafoam. Will try and see what may happen tomorrow, maybe i'll be lucky.

[Attic Rat]

Old2soon you are correct about the rat fink

[poppabear_093]

The lady started up today with a little less struggle, in half the warm-up time from yesterday all six were firing. Still no real idle. Will see what tomorrow brings. Also poured in some techron 

[Michvalk]

There IS such a thing as too much carb cleaner.

[poppabear_093]

Yep, 

[poppabear_093]

More improvement today but I just don't know    . Thinking about re-jetting and not worry about it again  it's just I have so many projects going on and I missed riding her this summer. What's the consensus, wait till Friday and get jets or just get them anyway?

Next thing how hard is it to do (with normal mechanical skills) and is there a YouTube video maybe? and do I have to get both slow and hi speed jets? Help me out here 

[maelstrom]

Hey poppabear : have to admit you have me a bit confused. you said you cleaned the carbs three times, but now you ask how to replace the slow jets ??  Sounds as though you never had the carbs off the bike and just ran carb cleaner in the tank.  If that's the case, it won't work that well if the jets are plugged up. I just did mine and had to run a wire trough the jet holes to clear out each one. The carb bank has to be removed from the bike, turned upside down as a unit on the bench. then one carb at a time remove the bowl, the float & needle, main jet, slow jet, run a fine wire trough each - squirt with carb cleaner and air, clean all and reinstall. You'll need the pilot jet adjusting tool from motion pro industries [ small 'd' shape ] to work on the pilots and readjust to 2 1/4 turns out from lightly seated. Sounds harder than it actually is, but it's necessary. my bike would hardly run before - now it's alive again.

[poppabear_093]

Buddy went through the carbs, treated it like his 1100 wing. Use a tool that he uses to clean something with welding, he's stumped and I'm tired of not riding but money is short. So I'm thinking if I have no choice I'll have to rejet. Been in the carbs on the VTX but don't want to mess up my baby

[salty1]

When was the last time you synched your carbs? Synchronization is very important!  

[John U.]

Have you checked your tank for rust and debris? That could be the reason that the slow jets don't stay clean. New jets won't fix that. Mine were so plugged I couldn't clean them.
Anyway Sudco has the jets. 35s are stock, some replace them with 38s. Only the slow jets are necesary, they plug up because they are so small. Ethanol doesn't help either.
I think you may need to clean your tank and consider a fuel filter. Somehow the junk seems to find it's way past the petcock screen. Golan makes high flow fuel filters, a bit pricey though.
Check The Valkyrie Norway web site, Dag may have some video on jet replacement.

[poppabear_093]

Thanks John U I'll get a mirror tomorrow and look down there

[Ricky-D]

I feel that if you are continuing to see improvement with the addition of an additive, that the best course of action would be to continue doing the same.

Making changes (jets) might not be the best avenue at this time.

Especially so if the bike was running good prior to this recent problem.

***

[poppabear_093]

Took plugs out of left bank and no surprise all three were wet, replaced them with a set that I had taken out last year. She fired right up and after a lengthy warm up I could idle (barely) at around 1000 with 3/4 choke off. Big improvement but not there yet. Will fill the tank again and add Techron and see what happens with that tank full. What is the normal RPM at idle anyway, it's been so daggone long?   

[Bone]

lDLE SPEED: 900  +/-  100 rpm

[salty1]

You stated your buddy went through the carbs, did he at least bench sync them before the reinstall? I'm not discounting that you may still have some jet problems, but my experience with a similar situation was a carb synchronization issue.  Then it all came together.   

[poppabear_093]

after a day of rest filled the tank up w/gas & Techron decided then decided to look at the plugs since I've run all the additives. left side WET right side 1 wet. switched plugs and she would stay at about 15 with choke and would continued to climb, but I'll get plugs this weekend.

[poppabear_093]

Finally had enough time after work to try my baby again. Started very rough but caught up after about 2 minutes. Left side actually got hot for the first time ( new plugs) if profess continues Saturday I'll take her for a very short ride. But I still think I'm going to have to cough up the big buck for jets and sync.

[John U.]

If all 6 exhaust pipes are getting hot with the choke off you are making great progress. Ride the bike with some Techron in the gas to finish the job. It's when nothing is flowing through the slow jets that no cleaning can happen.
I don't recall if it was mentioned to dump any old gas and treat the new gas.
For the future, consider using Marine Stabil to avoid a repeat of this situation. I use it in every tank.
Of course synchronizing may still be needed but if it clears up and idles and runs well, ride it and enjoy. 

[poppabear_093]

can anybody answer what the RPM should be with the choke on I'm at about 24-27
choke off rough 7-8

ran her for about 2 miles that's more than I've been able to do in 16 months (MAN, I MISS RIDING)

[Ricky-D]

That sounds about right although the normal idle speed should be a couple of hundred rpm's more.

The "book" says 800 to 1000 rpm.

It needs that to get the alternator to the threshold of charging.

***

[poppabear_093]

I think I'm going to do the right thing  . I need advise on which are the better bang for the buck as far  jets go, and do I get both high and low 38 & 95 or just 38's and what's way too much to pay? any Ideas folks?

[John U.]

You just need the slow jets to solve clogged jet problems. The main jets hardly ever suffer from that problem.
You also don't need 38s. I do run 38s and I think they solve a lean running condition and are just a bit more resistant to clogging.
If you go with 38s you will need to adjust your pilot jets to 1 3/4 to 2 turns out from lightly seated.
Be sure to blow all the crap out of the passages when replacing the jets.
Anyway, here is an outfit that sells Keihin jets: http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_street/honda_1500_valkyrie.htm
Sudco has them as well.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.

[poppabear_093]

Thanks John U. isn't there a special d screw or something? If so where would I purchase one? I WILL RIDE AGAIN!!!!!!!!!

[John U.]

MotionPro used to have them in a 1/4" drive bit, not too expensive.  Last time I looked on their site I couldn't find them, but I bet if you call MotionPro they still have them.

[salty1]

Redeye has a tool for you, see below. 

http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/5604503/stubby-pilot-screw-tool-on-bike

[poppabear_093]

Thanks Salty! I'll be on it this week

[YoungPUP]

+1 on Redeye. No affiliation Blah Blah Blah. Good Idea to grab his bowl gasket and intake runner o-ring kits while you're there.