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Author Topic: Intake leak  (Read 2070 times)
dubsider
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Posts: 195


Flat6 baby #33034

Dublin GA


« on: December 20, 2011, 07:49:20 AM »

I seem to have developed a slight leak from an intake tube leading into the cylinder head.  I know there is an O ring in there.. Is there any special trick to remove the intake tube from the carb and the head?  is it as simple of removing the bolts and removing the tube?
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2011, 08:02:39 AM »

Piece of cake to do. Just do it like you said, easier if you do all of them at once loosen all clamps to help get you room. I got mine at local hareware store. I just took an old one an a intake tube and matched them up.
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2011, 08:08:55 AM »

Viton is the preferred material for 'O'-rings when dealing with gasoline.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
hubcapsc
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Posts: 16789


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2011, 08:21:19 AM »


When you take off the #9s (in the lower picture) to get to the #4s, you really have to
mash-to-the-point-of-massive-deformation on the #5s, but they are soft floppy rubber,
probably no harm done...

When I changed out my #4s (you can tell they've gone bad when you see a "tobacco" stain
around the bases of the #9s...) I had my tank off (took my tank off?) and removed the eight
or so little bolts that hold the air box to the frame. Then I removed all the bolts that hold
the #9s to the cylinder heads. Seems like I'm leaving out something about the carb bank, I'm
remembering this from several years ago... anyhow, without much work (beyond taking the
tank off in the first place) I had the whole air-box/carb-bank/intake-runner assembly loose from
the rest of the bike, and it was easy to take each intake runner off, replace the o-ring, and
put the runner back on, one at a time, all without deforming the connectors between
the carbs and the intake runners. Then I replaced not-that-many bolts (all this is only
easy because the tank was off) and the whole thing was back as it should be...

-Mike



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0leman
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Posts: 2314


Klamath Falls, Or


« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2011, 09:03:11 AM »

I replaced them all at one time.  I did not mess with the tank.  Just took off my pods, have I/S.   Unscrewed the two clamps at the top of the manifolds (#9 shown above). Then remove the two bolts at the bottom.  I could lift the manifolds enough to get them out.  Carefull not to let anything drop in the hold.  Then cleaned up the gas residue, put in new O-Rings, put the pipe back in like I took it out.  Had all six done in less than an hour (included time to jack up the bike on a lift).  No real skills needed to do the job.
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2006 Shadow Spirit 1100 gone but not forgotten
1999 Valkryie  I/S  Green/Silver
dubsider
Member
*****
Posts: 195


Flat6 baby #33034

Dublin GA


« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2011, 10:27:56 AM »

I replaced them all at one time.  I did not mess with the tank.  Just took off my pods, have I/S.   Unscrewed the two clamps at the top of the manifolds (#9 shown above). Then remove the two bolts at the bottom.  I could lift the manifolds enough to get them out.  Carefull not to let anything drop in the hold.  Then cleaned up the gas residue, put in new O-Rings, put the pipe back in like I took it out.  Had all six done in less than an hour (included time to jack up the bike on a lift).  No real skills needed to do the job.

How are you able to lift the suspect manifold out when the other two are secured to the head and carb? What gives enough to allow this?
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BamaDrifter64
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*****
Posts: 1020


Athens, Alabama


« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2011, 11:44:32 AM »


When you take off the #9s (in the lower picture) to get to the #4s, you really have to
mash-to-the-point-of-massive-deformation on the #5s, but they are soft floppy rubber,
probably no harm done...

When I changed out my #4s (you can tell they've gone bad when you see a "tobacco" stain
around the bases of the #9s...) I had my tank off (took my tank off?) and removed the eight
or so little bolts that hold the air box to the frame. Then I removed all the bolts that hold
the #9s to the cylinder heads. Seems like I'm leaving out something about the carb bank, I'm
remembering this from several years ago... anyhow, without much work (beyond taking the
tank off in the first place) I had the whole air-box/carb-bank/intake-runner assembly loose from
the rest of the bike, and it was easy to take each intake runner off, replace the o-ring, and
put the runner back on, one at a time, all without deforming the connectors between
the carbs and the intake runners. Then I replaced not-that-many bolts (all this is only
easy because the tank was off) and the whole thing was back as it should be...

-Mike


I was right in the middle of removing the #5s so I could get to the #9s so I could swap out the #4s when I had the urge to go #1...so after I did the #1, I continued with replacing the #4s and then was in the middle of replacing the #5s so I could then finish up by re-installing the #9s when I really had to go #2 really bad.  So after completing #2, I tightened up the screws on the #5s and #9s and the #4s worked out just fine.

Dave
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dubsider
Member
*****
Posts: 195


Flat6 baby #33034

Dublin GA


« Reply #7 on: December 20, 2011, 12:02:23 PM »


When you take off the #9s (in the lower picture) to get to the #4s, you really have to
mash-to-the-point-of-massive-deformation on the #5s, but they are soft floppy rubber,
probably no harm done...

When I changed out my #4s (you can tell they've gone bad when you see a "tobacco" stain
around the bases of the #9s...) I had my tank off (took my tank off?) and removed the eight
or so little bolts that hold the air box to the frame. Then I removed all the bolts that hold
the #9s to the cylinder heads. Seems like I'm leaving out something about the carb bank, I'm
remembering this from several years ago... anyhow, without much work (beyond taking the
tank off in the first place) I had the whole air-box/carb-bank/intake-runner assembly loose from
the rest of the bike, and it was easy to take each intake runner off, replace the o-ring, and
put the runner back on, one at a time, all without deforming the connectors between
the carbs and the intake runners. Then I replaced not-that-many bolts (all this is only
easy because the tank was off) and the whole thing was back as it should be...

-Mike


I was right in the middle of removing the #5s so I could get to the #9s so I could swap out the #4s when I had the urge to go #1...so after I did the #1, I continued with replacing the #4s and then was in the middle of replacing the #5s so I could then finish up by re-installing the #9s when I really had to go #2 really bad.  So after completing #2, I tightened up the screws on the #5s and #9s and the #4s worked out just fine.

Dave

Roll Tide !!
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sandy
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Posts: 5403


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #8 on: December 20, 2011, 04:31:01 PM »

The O ring size is a #123 and if you can find viton or silicone, you'll never replace them again. Just loosen the hose clamp on the top of the tube. Remove the 2 base bolts (8mm) and pull the tube out from the bottom. Be careful where there's a vacuum line attached. (# 3 & 4 & 6 intakes)
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GOOSE
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Posts: 704


D.S. #: 1643

Southwest Virginia


« Reply #9 on: December 20, 2011, 07:00:26 PM »

RED EYE TECHNICAL SERVICES  has got the o-rings that you need in viton.
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hubcapsc
Member
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Posts: 16789


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #10 on: December 21, 2011, 03:28:07 AM »

RED EYE TECHNICAL SERVICES  has got the o-rings that you need in viton.

Red Eye's where I got my new #4s too  cooldude

-Mike
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dubsider
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Posts: 195


Flat6 baby #33034

Dublin GA


« Reply #11 on: December 21, 2011, 04:50:04 AM »

Thanks everyone..
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Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #12 on: December 21, 2011, 07:51:00 AM »

Easy, Remove the retainer bolts and loosen the clamp screw [#7] and the intake will come right off..
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0leman
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Posts: 2314


Klamath Falls, Or


« Reply #13 on: December 21, 2011, 08:41:25 AM »

How are you able to lift the suspect manifold out when the other two are secured to the head and carb? What gives enough to allow this?
[/quote]

If one lifts up a little on the Manifold, the bottom will move to the right or left.  Goes back on the same way.  One at a time worked great for me.
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2006 Shadow Spirit 1100 gone but not forgotten
1999 Valkryie  I/S  Green/Silver
John Schmidt
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Posts: 15260


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #14 on: December 22, 2011, 07:19:30 AM »

Easy, Remove the retainer bolts and loosen the clamp screw [#7] and the intake will come right off..
Patrick has it right. Just do that, then grab the bottom of the silvery intake tube and lift up and out. It will pop out of the rubber tubing one at a time if that's what you want. Same when reinstalling, slip the top outer edge up into the rubber tube and press down and in on the bottom. No biggie, shouldn't take you an hour to do all six which I'd suggest. If one is leaking the others aren't far behind and probably already are.
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dubsider
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Posts: 195


Flat6 baby #33034

Dublin GA


« Reply #15 on: December 22, 2011, 07:09:20 PM »

NEW  DEVELOPMENT.....
on close inspection is seems to me the fluid is a drop of what appears and feels like oil. It seems to be too viscous to be gas. It is only maybe a drop after 30 miles at 3500 RPMs - right at the base of the intake tube as it sits on the head... could this be ???

I appreciate the input on changing the O rings and will follow through on that -- but could it be something else??
« Last Edit: December 22, 2011, 07:16:53 PM by dubsider » Logged
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #16 on: December 23, 2011, 06:40:22 AM »

NEW  DEVELOPMENT.....
on close inspection is seems to me the fluid is a drop of what appears and feels like oil. It seems to be too viscous to be gas. It is only maybe a drop after 30 miles at 3500 RPMs - right at the base of the intake tube as it sits on the head... could this be ???

I appreciate the input on changing the O rings and will follow through on that -- but could it be something else??

It's doubtful that it is anything but gasoline, and any additive you may have in the gasoline minus the elements that have evaporated to form that brownish goop you see. It eventually dries and hardens.

New 'O'-rings on the riser will stop that seepage in it's tracks.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
dubsider
Member
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Posts: 195


Flat6 baby #33034

Dublin GA


« Reply #17 on: December 23, 2011, 06:57:51 AM »

NEW  DEVELOPMENT.....
on close inspection is seems to me the fluid is a drop of what appears and feels like oil. It seems to be too viscous to be gas. It is only maybe a drop after 30 miles at 3500 RPMs - right at the base of the intake tube as it sits on the head... could this be ???

I appreciate the input on changing the O rings and will follow through on that -- but could it be something else??

It's doubtful that it is anything but gasoline, and any additive you may have in the gasoline minus the elements that have evaporated to form that brownish goop you see. It eventually dries and hardens.

New 'O'-rings on the riser will stop that seepage in it's tracks.

***

That's what I thought.. I do have 5 ounces of Seafoam in the tank.. I am getting the O rings on order today from the RedEye boys..  I think I may polish the intake runners while I am at it. coolsmiley
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #18 on: December 23, 2011, 07:19:16 AM »

Polishing the intake runners.

There are two different schools of thought regarding that. I think mostly that polishing is "old school" and I know there are a few that have done it with their Valkyries.

The realized results may be not noticeable.

I can't remember if the runners are chrome plated on the inside but if they are you will be having to break through the plating to achieve any favorable polishing results.

It will make a nice afternoon project however.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
dubsider
Member
*****
Posts: 195


Flat6 baby #33034

Dublin GA


« Reply #19 on: December 23, 2011, 07:32:29 AM »

Polishing the intake runners.

There are two different schools of thought regarding that. I think mostly that polishing is "old school" and I know there are a few that have done it with their Valkyries.

The realized results may be not noticeable.

I can't remember if the runners are chrome plated on the inside but if they are you will be having to break through the plating to achieve any favorable polishing results.

It will make a nice afternoon project however.

***

I don't think they are chromed.. I read some on it that the rough inside may aid in the distribution of the gas versus the easier flow of a 'smooth' surface.  Who knows.... (I got my O rings on order)..
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #20 on: December 23, 2011, 11:17:57 AM »

I think that is the general consensus about polishing intakes. 

Quote
I read some on it that the rough inside may aid in the distribution of the gas versus the easier flow of a 'smooth' surface.

It (the roughness) causes miniature turbulence at the surface inducing a better mixing action of the gasoline and air although the lions share is done in the carburetor venturi area.

Polishing is usually done to increase velocity of whatever is passing thru the area, which is good to pack more-in quicker. it's a trade off for sure.  Whether there is a gain (or loss) is up to tests and experimentation.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #21 on: December 23, 2011, 01:06:49 PM »

Intake polishing.. A very rough surface like our monsters have disrupts air flow.. A very smooth surface actually reduces air flow [ a drop of water on the sheet of glass].. A somewhat smooth[slightly gritty] surface seems to flow best.. The main key to flow is size and shape and not too much can be done to a system like ours.. Regardless of any improvement or 'dis-improvement' I doubt a dyno including the butt-dyno will notice a difference..
I just cleaned them up on the Valk just for something to do..I'm not sure there is a  way of knowing whether its worth it or not without expensive flow equipment except for a little peace of mind and keeping you busy..
Some have said their fuel mileage has increased,but, I don't think I can say that for sure.. I consistently get 42-45 mpg in the 55- 65 mph range but I think that has more to do with the right hand than anything.. I don't ride as aggressively as I used to..
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dubsider
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Posts: 195


Flat6 baby #33034

Dublin GA


« Reply #22 on: December 30, 2011, 06:39:01 PM »

Got my RedEye O-rings.  tomorrow they go on.
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dubsider
Member
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Posts: 195


Flat6 baby #33034

Dublin GA


« Reply #23 on: December 31, 2011, 02:07:48 PM »

worked like a charm.. thanks for the input and thanks to RedEye.  stopped the goo in its tracks.
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