Help needed in DC area

[peter]

First, I want to sincerely thank all the good folks who tried to help me fix/bleed the clutch master cylinder on my '98 on a previous thread. To my dismay, I am getting no-where - no pressure on the lever no matter what I do.  The bike only has 17k miles on it, and the master cylinder and brass bushing appear to work fine. Wouldn't be the first time I screw up a straight-forward procedure. Anybody in the DC area (I'm near Sibley Hospital) that could possibly offer some hands-on help? Would be delighted and happy to pay for your time and effort.   

Frustrated and disappointed,

Peter

[9Ball]

you've got air in the line and need to purge it.  If you don't have a vacuum bleeder (MityVac, etc.) there is a cheaper alternative that I sometimes use.

Try forcing fresh fluid from the bleeder up to the master cylinder using a syringe and tubing.  Make sure there is enough room in the master cylinder to accept the fluid so it doesn't overflow.  You can get large syringes with tapered ends from your veterinarian or sometimes the local pharmacy.  Purge air from the tubing and syringe before attaching it to the bleeder.

Loosen the bleeder just enough to allow the fluid to be pushed in and watch the master cylinder for the presence of air bubbles.  Keep at it until the lever firms up once the bleeder is closed.  Go carefully to make sure you don't introduce any air into the system...it helps to have a spare set of hands available.

[TJ]

A smiple way to bleed it is to just open the bleeder...  walk away from it for 5 min at a time till you have fluid coming out... just keep the M/C full...

[Blackduck]

The design of the handle bars is part of the problem, the master cylinder slopes up hill to the discharge.Air can be trapped in the end of the cylinder and not bleed out. Try sitting on the bike and turn the bars to the right so the cylinder slopes down and then pump the cylinder slowly. This allows any air in the cylinder to bleed back into the cylinder. The same applies to the front brake master cylinder.
If you still have problems it sounds like you may need service kit for it.
Cheers Steve

[peter]

Ok, I'll give it another try; thanks for the encouragement.

Peter

[Jruby38]

I had the same problem. The best  and the only way I could bleed it was from the bottom up,  here is how.  Buy a big  syringe from tractor supply and put 1/4 id tube on it.  Open the bleeder on bottom slave , pust he tubbing on it and push the dot 4 in slow with the top clutch cover off.  Look close and you will see air bubbles rise to the top. Close bleeder and you are good to go.

[hubcapsc]

I do the thing with the syringe, but I fill up the reservoir, and
use the syringe to suck the fluid down towards the caliper. After
some fluid gets going some, I ditch the syringe and bleed like
normal, the syringe sort of gets stuff primed. I use speed bleeders, so that
helps make it fool/Mike-proof too.

Pushing the fluid up from the caliper is a good idea, but I imagine
me making paint-eating spurts of brake fluid come flying out of
the reservoir while I'm focused down at the caliper with
the syringe... probably not even an issue...

-Mike

[peter]

Thanks all, for your help. Just bought a Mityvac! ($40 Harbor Frieght) - going to give it a try this afternoon. Better work cause I don't want to pay $200 to tow her to a shop.  Update later...


Peter

[9Ball]

I had the same problem. The best  and the only way I could bleed it was from the bottom up,  here is how.  Buy a big  syringe from tractor supply and put 1/4 id tube on it.  Open the bleeder on bottom slave , pust he tubbing on it and push the dot 4 in slow with the top clutch cover off.  Look close and you will see air bubbles rise to the top. Close bleeder and you are good to go.

is there an echo in here?

 

[peter]

Well Halle-frickin-lujah.  The Mityvac worked great and it took all of 15 minutes. Tons of bubbles came out and the clutch now works great. I guess the simple "bottle" method using the lever as a pump just won't work on a Valk, at least not mine, as the clutch lever itself didn't generate enough pressure to push the bubbles out. The tube will fill with fluid and move slowly, making one believe there is no air in the system, BUT not true - they remain hidden somewhere out of sight until forced out by significant pressure.

Thanks again very much for all the ideas, comments and help! Another victory for VRCC!

Stay away from the cheap under $10 bleeder kits!

Peter in Maryland


 

[Bone]

Two of my buddies were laughing as they watched me using a Mity-Vac on my 98 Valkyrie. Told them I had bought it for my 85 Goldwing. As the teasing continued they both admitted to never using the front brakes of their HD's because they were a poor design.
While the Mity-Vac was dirty they let me try it on their bikes. They couldn't believe how well those big heavy bikes stopped using front and rear brakes
It's solved many unbleed-able brakes and clutches.

[shortleg]

  Peter
    I am uder the weather now, but you can call me if you need.
 I am in Mount Airy.
    I am not a super tech , but I could have helped you .
 I have a Mity Vac.
            Shortleg[Dave]

[peter]

Hi Dave,

I certainly remember you when you helped me out at Goody's a long time back - you bled my brakes while BigBF and his brother Thad installed some horns and synced my carbs as I recall.  Hope you are doing well and feel better soon 'ole bean and thanks for your generous offer. Hell, I'm an expert at bleeding systems now but I'm certain I could use your support sometime down the line.
All the Best,
Peter

[donaldcc]

Thanks all, for your help. Just bought a Mityvac! ($40 Harbor Frieght) - going to give it a try this afternoon. Better work cause I don't want to pay $200 to tow her to a shop.  Update later...
Peter

  Join AMA and I am almost positive they will cover your tow from your garage to shop.

  Don't give up though!  First time I did mine I had no clutch at all.  As said, air in lines and rebleed worked out OK.  Had tough time gettin MC level, loosen and move on bar until level to make it easier.

MODIFY:  See you got it fixed,  Join AMA for when you REALLY need the tow.

[gordonv]

 Join AMA and I am almost positive they will cover your tow from your garage to shop.

MODIFY:  See you got it fixed,  Join AMA for when you REALLY need the tow.

Rather than the AMA, join one of our MC groups, the GWRRA (& Valkyries). For a family covered member ship ($55) you get road side assistance, for extra $25 you get better (100 mile tows).
http://gwrra.org/benefits.html

[shortleg]

             Shortleg[Dave]

[peter]

two handsome devils if I say so myself.....

[Tundra]

             Shortleg[Dave]

Hey Shortleg, what brand and size tire is that on the Valk on the right?    Looks sinister

[shortleg]

 I think it is a 205/65/16
  Goodyear if memory serves
    Shortleg[Dave]

[Tundra]

I've looked everywhere at on-line photos for tires avaiable in that size. Can't find that tread pattern. Sure looks good though.

[shortleg]

It,s a goodyear, but can,t remember much more.
         Shortleg[Dave]