Final Drive Rebuild

[bscrive]

Ok, I pulled my wheel off and low and behold the final drive cup gear and flange are shot.  Last time I checked it was 6k ago, 2 years ago, and there was a little wear on it then but now the final drive cup and flange is close to being toast.  The new genuine Honda wheel bearings I put in 6k ago are toast as well so, my guess would be they failed and took out the gears.  There is also no grease left in there.  I never noticed anything I just decided to change the tire and I saw the carnage.
I looked on e-bay and the only two there don't give a warm fuzzy plus I also need a new flange.
Has anyone ever rebuilt a final drive and if so is there anything I should look out for?  The bearings on the final drive are smooth when I turn it so I don't think there is anything internal damaged but I will find out when I pull the final drive apart.

Thanks for any help guys.

[Ricky-D]

Sure!  I rebuilt me a final drive a year or more ago.

Still have not put it in to use yet cause I'm looking to get all I can out of the one I have on now.

I originally thought it was not going to last too much longer but with cleaning and grease it has lasted much longer than I had thought.

I bought an old drive and put in new gears. The pinion and the flange.

They are only sold in sets.  I also bought a new drive shaft and pinion cup along with a new universal joint.

Figure I'll do the whole thing at one time.

But, I'm still going strong with the old stuff. 114,000 miles

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[bscrive]

Ricky,

How much was the set and can I order it directly online or do I need to go through a dealer?  Unfortunately mine only lasted 31k and I always check it each time I go through a tire, which is usually 5-6k.

[RP#62]

Have you tried cleaning up the splines to see what you've got?  They can look really bad at first, but once you clean all the powdered rust out, they sometimes aren't as bad as you thought.  Take a pic and post it and I'm sure you'll get more than enough opinions about how many miles if any, are left.
-RP

[Ricky-D]

Here ya are. Direct Line Parts.  http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=148613&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=2000&fveh=3474

Replace the O-rings and oil seals also.

Reuse all the bearings if they feel good which I am sure they will be good.

Good mechanical practice is a must and follow the directions in the shop manual thoroughly for a good reliable outcome.

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[bscrive]

Thanks for the information Ricky.

[bscrive]

Here are some pictures of the final drive.  Does it look like there is any life left on this?






Marks on the part against the wheel.

[John U.]

I wouldn't trust those splines farther than I can push the bike.

[SPOFF]

I wouldn't trust those splines farther than I can push the bike.

Mine started slipping when they were considerably less worn. A very sick feeling I must tell you 

[bscrive]

Where can I get a pinion retainer wrench?  Honda dealer up here doesn't seem to able to get one  or maybe doesn't want to, who knows.

It looks like I will be changing it out since I cannot find a suitable replacement.  I am sure I can get the retainer out with a screwdriver and a hammer or make the tool but I would rather just buy the tool.   The retainer needs to be torqued to 112 lb ft and that really requires the proper tool.

Brian

[John U.]

Have you checked with Pinwall? Of course it will cost more to replace the pumpkin, even with a used one than it will to rebuild. Still, a spare is nice to have.

[stapo]

My workshop manual does not have a break down and rebuild of the final drive. Where do you get the information?

rtegards stapo

[MP]

That drive is toast.  Could give out the next time you twist the throttle wide open.

MP

[Ricky-D]

Where can I get a pinion retainer wrench?  Honda dealer up here doesn't seem to able to get one  or maybe doesn't want to, who knows.

It looks like I will be changing it out since I cannot find a suitable replacement.  I am sure I can get the retainer out with a screwdriver and a hammer or make the tool but I would rather just buy the tool.   The retainer needs to be torqued to 112 lb ft and that really requires the proper tool.

Brian

I am not going to argue with you about what you should do but:

I will tell you that I did not use that special holder or special spanner.

The reason I decided to avoid that is two fold.

(1) I felt that I could tighten down that threaded ring well enough with a hammer and a punch, of course you have to use good mechanical practice and some common sense when doing this operation.

(2) With the mechanical keeper that is bolted down there is no way the threaded ring will loosen which is one of the reasons that torque figures are developed. The only worry then becomes that the pinion assembly may be loose which it is not, it may not be tight to torque values, but it surely is tight and inspection is an easy chore. Additional tightening is easily accomplished.

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[bscrive]

John U,

I was not impressed with what Pinwall has and for almost the same money I will have a like new final drive.

Stapo,

I bought a shop manual on DVD years ago on ebay but, I have not seen one for sale in a long time.  It has the tear down and rebuild steps with pictures, tools needed with tool numbers and torque specs for pretty much anything to do with the Valkyrie. 

Ricky,

I ordered the tool for it but I am wondering if I really need to change the pinion as well or can I just change the gear with the cup.  I will see how the gears mesh and how well the final drive operates before I change the pinion.  If it has any resistance I will change the pinion as well.  I get my parts in about 2 weeks and I have my cousin to help me, he is a mechanic, so I will keep you guys apprised of my progress.  I will also try to remember to take pictures and put it up on the site.




Brian

[Valkpilot]

Ricky,

I ordered the tool for it but I am wondering if I really need to change the pinion as well or can I just change the gear with the cup.  I will see how the gears mesh and how well the final drive operates before I change the pinion.  If it has any resistance I will change the pinion as well. 
Brian

We tried that approach on a final drive and it clattered like a rat running through empty beer cans.  The pinion gear and ring gear should be changed out together.

[salty1]

+1 

[GOOSE]

bscrive....I agree with Valkpilot....I would not change just the ring gear....You really need to change them out as a set...NEW RING GEAR/NEW PINION.  you also should mate up a new final drive flange with it.  The couple of times that I just changed the ring gear, and not the pinion, I wound up going back inside to do it.  It ends up saving you a whole lotta time inn the end.

[gordonv]

I bought a shop manual on DVD years ago on ebay but, I have not seen one for sale in a long time.  It has the tear down and rebuild steps with pictures, tools needed with tool numbers and torque specs for pretty much anything to do with the Valkyrie. 

I just checked with the seller. He has manuals, I bought one from him almost 2 years ago for the Valkyrie. Here is his reply to my email yesterday.

My web stores:
http://store03.prostores.com/servlet/manualwizard/StoreFront
 
www.sell.com/selling/cholocholo41/

Most are $30  as delivered.

[Ricky-D]

You can download a manual for free from Dag's site.

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/Interstate%20NEW.html

Print the pages you will need.

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