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The Anvil
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« on: January 22, 2012, 09:26:21 AM » |
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Was in the shed yesterday getting some stuff for ice removal from the driveway (thanks mom and dear wife for cleaning your cars in the driveway instead of in the street like I asked) and I figured while I was out there I'd start the Valk and bring her up to temperature. Well she was turning slow (it was pretty cold) so I decided to boost her with the jump-starter. A few cranks later the starter just stopped turning. All lights function, it's just the starter button does nothing. It it typically the 30A main fuse that craps out or is it that other fuse? I don't have me wiring diagram handy.
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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John U.
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« Reply #1 on: January 22, 2012, 09:58:23 AM » |
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Could be the starter switch needs to be cleaned and relubed. Are your headlights and taillights working?
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John U.
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« Reply #2 on: January 22, 2012, 10:03:30 AM » |
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Michvalk
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« Reply #3 on: January 22, 2012, 05:51:57 PM » |
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It's probably the main fuze  |
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The Anvil
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« Reply #4 on: January 22, 2012, 06:10:00 PM » |
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Thanks guys. It'll be a few days before I can look closer. That'll learn me to rush that kind of thing.
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Logged
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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Full_Throttle
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« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2012, 10:40:45 AM » |
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Anvil,
When that happened to me it was the switch itself. Do a search on here and you will find loads of info on taking apart the switch to clean it. If you do, inspect it as it may have gotten hot and deformed.
Mike
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The Anvil
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« Reply #6 on: January 24, 2012, 04:26:33 PM » |
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Anvil,
When that happened to me it was the switch itself. Do a search on here and you will find loads of info on taking apart the switch to clean it. If you do, inspect it as it may have gotten hot and deformed.
Mike
You know, I cleaned it when I did the chgangeover to drag bars but if I check my fusage and it looks good I'll try it again. I'm guessing (and hoping) I just over-amped the fuse. I should have just waited for a warmer day. You know, like TODAY.   Most thanks to all who have offered advice. |
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Logged
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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Full_Throttle
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« Reply #7 on: February 04, 2012, 07:30:08 AM » |
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Did you get a chance to diagnose the problem?
Mike
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The Anvil
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« Reply #8 on: February 04, 2012, 08:20:15 AM » |
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I'm glad you brought it up because I'd forgotten to follow up. Went outside on a considerably warmer day and pulled the side cover. The 30A fuse was fine, 55A (I think) fusible link was fine.  Turned the key and thumbed the starter, fired right up.  I'm thinking it might be time to replace the switch. |
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Logged
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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CajunRider
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« Reply #9 on: February 04, 2012, 10:24:37 AM » |
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I hate to hijack your thread Anvil, but has anyone ever tried to rewire the started switch to operate a relay??
Instead of all that current threw the switch and causing all these issues, let the switch turn a relay (or two) at a much lower amperage, and the relays take all the high amps.
Aside from mechanical vibration while in motion, it'd work. If the relays can't handle road bumps, then go to solid state relays.
I'd have to check the diagram again to come up with the correct wiring and be sure, but either two relays or one DPDT relay should do the trick.
One of these days, I plan on tearing mine down to the frame and re-wiring the ENTIRE bike... I have a few too many melted connectors for comfort... and this switch seems like it should be double its size to be rated for the amount of power going through it.
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Sent from my Apple IIe
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The Anvil
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« Reply #10 on: February 04, 2012, 10:59:18 AM » |
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I hate to hijack your thread Anvil, but has anyone ever tried to rewire the started switch to operate a relay??
Instead of all that current threw the switch and causing all these issues, let the switch turn a relay (or two) at a much lower amperage, and the relays take all the high amps.
Aside from mechanical vibration while in motion, it'd work. If the relays can't handle road bumps, then go to solid state relays.
I'd have to check the diagram again to come up with the correct wiring and be sure, but either two relays or one DPDT relay should do the trick.
One of these days, I plan on tearing mine down to the frame and re-wiring the ENTIRE bike... I have a few too many melted connectors for comfort... and this switch seems like it should be double its size to be rated for the amount of power going through it.
Uh, I'm pretty sure the starter circuit has a relay. I looked and yes, it does have a relay. The starter button only controls coil voltage for the contactor. |
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« Last Edit: February 04, 2012, 11:04:47 AM by The Anvil »
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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CajunRider
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« Reply #11 on: February 04, 2012, 11:48:23 AM » |
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Uh, I'm pretty sure the starter circuit has a relay.
I looked and yes, it does have a relay. The starter button only controls coil voltage for the contactor.
Yes, the starter has a relay... like all starters do... The switch caries + to the lights (disengage lights while activating starter relay) and a couple other things I can't remember at the moment. The lights themselves are going to pull a hefty chunk (55/60 W depending on low/high beam, which equates to ABOUT 4.5/5 A while switch is disengaged). The coils run through the Run/Stop switch just above the starter button. A relay could cut all that 4.5/5 amp to less than 1 amp for each position (engaged/disengaged). For a switch that often burns due to electrical arc resulting in the need to clean occasionally, cutting 75-80% of the current would probably help quite a bit. I have several wires (not just connectors) that have melted also because of the way Honda likes to run 5 things on one wire, then make that wire only 20 AWG. Honda also likes to ground things at the end device... which I have never been a fan of. All grounds should be carried in a conductor all the way back to the source... then properly ground the source. This would cut down on many of the bad ground issues that have been seen before. |
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Sent from my Apple IIe
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CajunRider
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« Reply #12 on: February 04, 2012, 11:51:53 AM » |
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Has anyone tried this? How about an "emergency start switch" hidden and in parallel with the existing push button circuit? Some 1980's cars had that under the hood. There was even a remote starter switch for home mechanics . The ignition switch would still have to be on, but the extra switch would engage the starter.
It would keep you from getting stuck somewhere due to a bad switch.
Pluggy.
This is an interesting idea. I've also heard of people just shorting the starter relay (pocket knife or screwdriver) for the same effect... but a easy(er) to reach switch would make things nice and could let you finish your vacation before having to work on the bike. |
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Sent from my Apple IIe
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GreenLantern57
Member
Posts: 1543
Hail to the king baby!
Rock Hill, SC
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« Reply #14 on: February 04, 2012, 06:45:15 PM » |
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Has anyone tried this? How about an "emergency start switch" hidden and in parallel with the existing push button circuit? Some 1980's cars had that under the hood. There was even a remote starter switch for home mechanics . The ignition switch would still have to be on, but the extra switch would engage the starter.
It would keep you from getting stuck somewhere due to a bad switch.
Pluggy.
If you go through all of Chet's wiring, you will see he has lots of great ideas. One involves adding a relay for the starter, but using the starter button to trip the relay. He even has one where the relay acts just like the starter switch and takes the lights off line while the starter is engaged. |
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