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Author Topic: Desmog- questions  (Read 2506 times)
BradValk48237
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*****
Posts: 1717


Oak Park, MI


« on: March 02, 2012, 09:56:10 AM »

Hey All,

 First of all , I have read most all of the Desmog posts on here and have done some looking and want to have some opinions on what the best and easiest way to Desmog are....

I do have some burble on decel..."Plot, plot, plot".... not to much but enough to bug me..

Have checked all the lines and don't really see any leaks, but I like the idea of cleaning up all the junk and eliminating possible hidden leaks...

So.. not afraid to do some fabrication.. but don't want to chase parts and it looks like by the time I order all the Stuff from HDL - (BTW- none of the local parts suppliers stock the correct size freeze plugs) and other places I'll have $30-40 bucks in parts and shipping... plus I don't want to reuse the stock caps and JB weld em, want to clean it up...

So lemme know what you think..... Which is the best looking and easiest kit out there?

Brad
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Bigwolf
Member
*****
Posts: 1502


Cookeville, TN


« Reply #1 on: March 02, 2012, 11:24:41 AM »

Brad,
Since you have some decel popping and you are going to have the tank off anyway, it would be a good idea to test the air cut valves to be sure they are working properly.  The cut valves work to stop decel popping as does the PAIR control valve.  You will be eliminating the PAIR control valve with the desmog but there could also be a problem with the cut valves.  I just checked mine with 25k on my Valk and 5 out of the 6 cut valves were bad.  Just sayin.

Wolf
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BradValk48237
Member
*****
Posts: 1717


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #2 on: March 02, 2012, 11:32:45 AM »

Where are those located?.... News to me....

Thanks
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2012, 12:15:58 PM »

Heck, he's only asking about a de-smog.

No sense to lead him down a windy road.

Carburetor work should not be in the cards at this time, let him get de-smogged first!

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
BradValk48237
Member
*****
Posts: 1717


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #4 on: March 02, 2012, 02:01:43 PM »

Yes... I don't touch the carbs unless its an issue....... I tend to lose little springy things and small pieces...... and thats just takin em apart...... won't even talk about gettin' em back together! Cheesy

Brad

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Bigwolf
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Posts: 1502


Cookeville, TN


« Reply #5 on: March 02, 2012, 02:15:39 PM »

They are on the outside of the carbs and attached to a very short piece of rubber tubing that should be checked for leaks as well as any other vacuum tubing.  You do not have to take them off to test them for a vacuum leak but would have to take them off to be sure they are shutting off the air flow when vacuum goes above 15.7 inches of mercury.  Use a longer piece of hose and a vacuum pump such as this.
 I had the carbs all apart when this photo was taken and that is one of the cut valves on the end of the hose.  All of my cut valves would shut the air off when the vacuum got high enough but only one of the six would hold the vacuum as they should.  Also, I found all 6 cut valve hoses cracked and leaking.

Ricky,
Quote
Heck, he's only asking about a de-smog.

No sense to lead him down a windy road.

Carburetor work should not be in the cards at this time, let him get de-smogged first!

He said he had some decel popping.  Cut valves could be one of the problems.  Might as well check them now.  After all, the only reason they are there is to eliminate decel popping.  Also, vacuum leaks that cause a leaner mixture could be causing decel popping.  Why keep pulling the tank and airbox off to fix just one thing at a time?  When I go in there, I like to inspect everything I can so I do not have to go in there as often.  That air box is a pita to get back in.  

Desmogging eliminates one system that can/will cause decel popping if it is not working properly and there are several things that can go wrong with the PAIR system so it makes sense to desmog.  However, it is only one possible cause of decel popping.  

I did not mean to hijack this thread so that is all I am going to say about it here.

Wolf
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Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2012, 04:57:12 AM »

Wolf brings up a very good point.. These monsters are starting to get old and even though Honda didn't use very good quality vacuum line, any vacuum line of this vintage can be susceptible to cracking.. I've found a few over the years,but, have never checked the valves for operation,, probably should..
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texaninsouthfl
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Posts: 441


Serving those who served us...

East Lake County, Florida


WWW
« Reply #7 on: March 03, 2012, 10:39:03 PM »

Hey All,

 First of all , I have read most all of the Desmog posts on here and have done some looking and want to have some opinions on what the best and easiest way to Desmog are....

I do have some burble on decel..."Plot, plot, plot".... not to much but enough to bug me..

Have checked all the lines and don't really see any leaks, but I like the idea of cleaning up all the junk and eliminating possible hidden leaks...

So.. not afraid to do some fabrication.. but don't want to chase parts and it looks like by the time I order all the Stuff from HDL - (BTW- none of the local parts suppliers stock the correct size freeze plugs) and other places I'll have $30-40 bucks in parts and shipping... plus I don't want to reuse the stock caps and JB weld em, want to clean it up...

So lemme know what you think..... Which is the best looking and easiest kit out there?

Brad

Get the "Shiny De-Smog Kit" from Redeye. Everything you need... good "destructions" and it's SHINY!
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Chiefy
Member
*****
Posts: 1046


Sarasota, Florida


« Reply #8 on: March 04, 2012, 08:41:58 AM »

Hey All,

 First of all , I have read most all of the Desmog posts on here and have done some looking and want to have some opinions on what the best and easiest way to Desmog are....

I do have some burble on decel..."Plot, plot, plot".... not to much but enough to bug me..

Have checked all the lines and don't really see any leaks, but I like the idea of cleaning up all the junk and eliminating possible hidden leaks...

So.. not afraid to do some fabrication.. but don't want to chase parts and it looks like by the time I order all the Stuff from HDL - (BTW- none of the local parts suppliers stock the correct size freeze plugs) and other places I'll have $30-40 bucks in parts and shipping... plus I don't want to reuse the stock caps and JB weld em, want to clean it up...

So lemme know what you think..... Which is the best looking and easiest kit out there?

Brad

Get the "Shiny De-Smog Kit" from Redeye. Everything you need... good "destructions" and it's SHINY!

That's what I used.  Quality parts, nothing extra to buy and good instructions.
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1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles
Farther
Member
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Posts: 1680


Quimper Peninsula, WA


« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2012, 09:58:09 AM »

What, if any, advantage does the Shiney Parts provide over the traditional free plugs and will someone post pictures of the shiney parts after installtion.
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Thanks,
~Farther
Momz
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Posts: 5702


ABATE, AMA, & MRF rep.


« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2012, 02:08:40 PM »

I've "blown out" two freeze plugs after a complete de-smog. And I seen others who have lost their freeze plugs on extreme deceleration.

I'd recommend putting panhead machine screws into the recesses and then fill the holes with JB Weld (your gonna destroy the AIS anyway), then put your favorite small coins on the holes before the JB epoxy dries (it looks quite "trick" also).
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ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY! 

97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes
Chiefy
Member
*****
Posts: 1046


Sarasota, Florida


« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2012, 02:35:56 PM »

What, if any, advantage does the Shiney Parts provide over the traditional free plugs and will someone post pictures of the shiney parts after installtion.

I don't know of an advantage other then all the parts are in one kit, they're good quality, and the guy at Red eye is helpful.  When it's done, it looks like it came from the factory that way.  I'll try and take a photo in a little bit.
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1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles
BradValk48237
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*****
Posts: 1717


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #12 on: March 05, 2012, 01:33:24 PM »

Would a little JB weld on the freeze plugs before you drove them in help avoid possible blowout?

B
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #13 on: March 05, 2012, 02:58:47 PM »

No, you don't need to do anything like that!

Use the correct size freeze plug and be sure you insert it in, straight and true.

That bit about blowing out is, (if true) outrageously overstated.

More like pop out would be the best description if indeed they could even do that!

You can go without the freeze plugs and you would see there is very little happening when the motor is running.

As a note here,,, trying to insert them forcefully can and has caused the boss (where the freeze plug will be inserted) to crack and actually break a piece off. So be careful and don't worry about making sure it is hammered in.  You can search and find the thread that pictures this breaking piece.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Buda
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Posts: 394


Buda IL


« Reply #14 on: March 05, 2012, 03:30:34 PM »

What, if any, advantage does the Shiney Parts provide over the traditional free plugs and will someone post pictures of the shiney parts after installtion.

The shiny part plugs the hole just like the factory parts....a chrome plug with an o ring on it.....just did it this winter so I can't say much about how they last.  As far as pics...I've had very little luck posting pics here.....will give it a shoot again
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97 Valkyrie
33344
BradValk48237
Member
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Posts: 1717


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #15 on: March 06, 2012, 08:41:54 AM »

I would like to see how the shiny kit looks......
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Momz
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Posts: 5702


ABATE, AMA, & MRF rep.


« Reply #16 on: March 06, 2012, 01:29:15 PM »

Ricky-D; If your going to do a Desmog, why would you not make a permanent fix?

The screws and epoxy hole fill is a permanent and fool proof method; no leaks, no rust on the freeze plugs, unique and very cost effective.

I do recomend that you use the Red Eye vacuum caps though.
« Last Edit: March 06, 2012, 01:31:46 PM by Momz » Logged


ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY! 

97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes
salty1
Member
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Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #17 on: March 06, 2012, 02:39:12 PM »

I used the stealth kit sold by redeye, want it keep the OEM look.  Smiley

http://redeye.ecrater.com/c/1086125/desmog-kits

Eliminated most of my decel pop. I need to check the air cutoffs one of these days. I like what Bigwolf posted.  cooldude
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Chiefy
Member
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Posts: 1046


Sarasota, Florida


« Reply #18 on: March 06, 2012, 02:46:34 PM »

Okay, 2 or 3 of you wanted photos of the shiny desmog kit installed.  These photos are from the right side.  The left side is very slightly different but looks the same, and installs the same.  Pardon the dirty engine   I'd rather ride her then clean her.......

I'm sure some will tell you you're an idiot if you buy the kit when you can buy the pieces seperatly.  But so what?  I think it looks like it came from the factory that way, and the kit wasn't all that much anyway.







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1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles
BradValk48237
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Posts: 1717


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #19 on: March 06, 2012, 04:20:20 PM »

Thanks for the pics.....

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