Rear Wheel Removal Problem Help Needed

[xman]

This is my first time rear tire removal.  I'm stuck here. Hope someone out there can help while I sit here looking at this. 

I have the axel out, pulled out the left side spacer, lowered the wheel and swing arm. The wheel is off the 5 drive pins that go into the dampers. So it's almost off.

Here's the problem, I can't move the wheel far enough left to clear the drive pins on the finial drive flange. Note the flange is still in the final gear case. Is that correct or should the flange stay in the dampers, and somehow pry the spline out. If so how do I get the spline apart?

Thanks Tom

[sutterhome]

did you follow these steps?

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/RWRemoval.html

[Bone]

The flange stays in then remove it when the wheel is out.
Carefully pull the flange using a little leverage working around the flange.

[John Schmidt]

That five fingered flange should stay with the wheel as you surmised when you remove the wheel. It should easily come out of the final drive when moving the wheel sideways, it's unusual that it would come out of the wheel. Try this; use a small piece of 2x4(4-5" long) as a fulcrum, place a piece of 1x3 about 2' long on top of it. Then you can pry the wheel up and hold it in place with your knee while you use both hands to work the wheel back on the flange. Then slip a long screwdriver in the area behind the flange, it should come out of the final drive rather easily. Don't know what else to suggest, but the flange has to stay with the wheel, as you discovered....no room to clear if it doesn't.

EDIT: Slip the axle back through to the left side without the spacer and brake being in place, put the nut back on a few threads just to keep it in place temporarily. That will hold the wheel up for you while trying to move things around.

[xman]

Sutter, Yes followed Dag's, excellent video, He did it in 6 minutes with no issues. His axle didn't spin when he took the nut off. I feal like Mac Gyver doing this alone.

John, Yes looking at it either I'm not wiggling this right or the flange needs to be on the wheel to come out. I will get it lined up and pry the flange off the spline.

Thanks Guys Tom 

[sutterhome]

flange needs to be on the wheel to come out and to go back in if I recall. Had a bad tire last spring did this alot. But it easier with several hands as that tire is a pain to man handle.2X4 TO PRY (LIFT)UNDER TIRE IS BIG

[xman]

All is good now, wheel is off.  I got the pins back into to dampers, wiggled it a bit and the spline fell apart. I doing it on a big red Sears MC jack with a small floor jack under the tire. I am using tie down straps as a safety. I couldn't lower the tire low enough with the floor jack so I let the tire down letting out the strap. That worked well.

Next I want to pull the drive shaft / U joint, to lube it up. Anyone have a link to a good explanation of this?

Thanks again
Tom

[F6BANGER]

Take off the four nuts and pull. When putting it back in, make sure your swing arm is level, make your job MUCH easier.

[hubcapsc]

Next I want to pull the drive shaft / U joint, to lube it up.

Holding the u-joint in your hand is a different level of pain-in-the-butt
than all the rest of the stuff you are doing. If the u-joint end of the
drive shaft looks good, and you don't have any reason to think the
u-joint has a problem, you might just want to put some grease on the
u-joint end of the shaft and call it good.

The roads around here (or something) wears out my tires at 5-7 K, so I'm
in there a lot. More than once I have "done it wrong" when I was in there,
so don't take my opinion about removing the u-joint for inspection as gospel.

I remember the time I put moly paste in the pinion cup:



The manual sez to put a teeny-tiny bit of grease on the pinion end of the
drive shaft. The manual doesn't say that oil flows in and out of the
final drive through the holes in the bottom of the pinion cup to lubricate
that area, but oil very certainly does flow in and out of those holes:



I think this patent describes the process:

http://hubcap.clemson.edu/~hubcap/pinionCupHoles.txt

1. don't put moly paste in the pinion cup [duh  ]

2. make sure the holes at the bottom of the pinion cup are clear...



-Mike

[sutterhome]

Just an FYI don't worry if tire doesn't rotate while hanging.

[xman]

I haven't pulled it apart yet. So if i'm understanding this correct, is the pinion lubed by the the drive oil. And not much gained other than looking at the U joint and new greese on the spline. My bike has 15 K and this has not been looked at. Is it time to take a look or should I let it go?

Tom 

[hubcapsc]

I haven't pulled it apart yet. So if i'm understanding this correct, is the pinion lubed by the the drive oil. And not much gained other than looking at the U joint and new greese on the spline. My bike has 15 K and this has not been looked at. Is it time to take a look or should I let it go?

Tom 

I pull the drive shaft, and clean and re-lube,  every tire. I just don't pull out the u-joint.

The "teeny-tiny" amount of grease to pack into the pinion cup is .08oz...

Your question is good, I hope others chime in...

-Mike

[BonS]

I haven't pulled it apart yet. So if i'm understanding this correct, is the pinion lubed by the the drive oil. And not much gained other than looking at the U joint and new greese on the spline. My bike has 15 K and this has not been looked at. Is it time to take a look or should I let it go?

Tom 

If you're that close i'd take a look at it. The penalty for neglecting this area is pretty stiff. The extra labor is not a very big deal. And then you'll know where you stand.

[xman]

Since the bike is new to me, I'm going to pull it all apart and take a look. I now have both wheels off to do a tire replacement and maintenance.

The left rear wheel bearing is a little rough. So next issue, rear wheel bearings replacement. I'll look around for the how to and where to buy the bearings.

Tom 

[gordonv]

If you have a wheel bearing that is already rough, then there should be no delay in replacing it. It could fail at anytime, and you know it will fail because it already has signs of wear (roughness).

I hope others will also advise.

Personally, I would do the dual roller bearing (RH bearing) modification to the LH bearing.

[Jess from VA]

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html  (click on each picture)

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/GL1/gl49.jpg

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/Elusive%203rd%20O-Ring.htm

http://www.carolinabikeandtrike.com/ORings.htm

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/5204_bearing_mod.pdf

A statement above says don't worry if tire doesn't rotate while hanging...... the more important point is, do not turn the wheel at all with the swingarm hanging down, you can booger up the U-joint since it is already kinked in this position.  If you pull the Ujoint, drive shaft and pinion cup down for inspection and lube, you need to put the empty swingarm up to a level position for ease of reassembly (mainly the Ujoint).  

You want Tier 1 wheel bearings, Honda bearings are Tier 1 (AllBalls are Chinese), there are other Tier 1 bearings out there.  The four digit bearing part numbers are the same at any auto parts store.  If you want to do the double-row-on-the-left-bearing-mod, get your collar spacer to a machine shop to get it cut down per the the article above.

With the rear caliper off, it's time to detail clean the pistons and parts from crud, even if your pads are still good.

With only 15K, you probably don't need new rear wheel balancers (but they are old), pop the cover off (easy) and see if the rubbers are too soft/spongy.

Easiest time to change the rear end dope is now; get some 75-90 or 80-90 synthetic to replace it. No need to measure out the small amount called for, just refill it while level, and when it starts running back out, it's full.  (replace drain plug first)

OE 2-part valve stems should be changed with every tire.  They suck, and should be replaced with  90* metal stems like Patchboy or  MotorcycleAnchor billets.

http://www.hondadirectlineofshadyside.com/stores/product.asp?pid=44463&str=2&ID=498413299

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/tire_valves/index.htm
If you use these (I do), see note on Honda fitment.  Cut the Ts for orientation of stems to the high (right) side of bike.  http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/tire_valves/honda_gl_series_valve_seat.jpg

[donaldcc]

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/Elusive%203rd%20O-Ring.htm

  Thanks for links Jess. That dust seal part number is updated --  Dust seal Part #91253-433-762 (30 X 47 X

[xman]

Jess great information. This time around I'm going to repace the rear wheel bearing with stock replacements.

Does anyone have a preferred source and brand and part number for the bearings? 

Tom