finnally a good reading compression test update

[roadmap]

i am in need of a 30 pack of beer some band aids a little prayer that should do it  
my bike with 152000 has #2 cylinder  corrected has a dead hole
did a carb rebuild new slow jets a good cleaning and seats for the floats
did the spark test nice and blue spark gas getting to the carbs
just won't fire on #2 could be still clogged not sure

ok now with a new compression tester from sears they had a online sale.

1. 160  3.  170  5.  170       2.  170+  4.  165  6.  160

now look at them all # 2 looks ok now.. man the book says my engine is like new
with 152,000 miles
oil used first 10 yrs of ownership used dura-blend 20w50 only switched to rottella sync 5w40 because it was easy to get out on the road a few yrs ago do not like the thin oil it thumps to much during sifting but it seems to do the job and the price is right

still have a dead hole in #2 cylinder after taking the carb racks out now 4 times it gets easy go to have to go with red eye and do a complete rebuild going to put in a tank let soak for a while
already put float seats in new #38 took them out put back #35 they were never clogged anyway as far as i could tell after soaking the 35 they look clear light and air through all the holes.

leaking pingle valve fixed just dirty 1311CHV put on dan marc shut off and put a 20 micron filter from napa.  done allot of things no changes

after complete rebuild will update

if this don't work time for a ride in the country shoot the beast   

[Westsider]

 #2 cylinder no or little compression
 #2 could be still clogged not sure

sounds liike a little more trouble shooting before ou start thowing parts at it..
can you get a hold of a compression gauge?
KUP.....keep us posted

[R J]

Go to Google, type in 'Motorcycle Salvage yards' and set back and do a bunch of reading.

Have you done a compression test on that cylinder?

Does it smoke out that exhaust pipe?

If not, change your oil, put in a qt of tranny fluid and fill it up with regular oil.

Run it about 500 to 1,000 miles.  Is it still low on compression?    Is the compression reading higher than before?

If higher change the oil, and the filter this time, again and do the same. Qt of Tranny fluid and fill with regular oil.

This time run it 1,000 miles and pull the test again.   If it is still way low, then your actually do have a bad hole, and will need to go deeper into the motor.

I doubt like hell you have a dead hole, I'd say it is just carboned up and maybe a ring is stuck.    The tranny fluid will break that ring loose when plain oil will not.

[Momz]

I find it hard to believe that at 155K that #2 cylinder is shot.
Did you check that the valves are properly adjusted?
If you find a salvage motor, can I have your current motor?

[98valk]

get a '97 and later goldwing GL1500 engine. has taller OD 4th and 5th gears.

[Phil57]

Check with John Schmidt he had  a motor from a project bike.

[Brian]

Roadmap,
When I bought my 97 it wasn't running at all and sat for two years. I had and whole list of issues that included gas running through three cylinders. This lead me to perform a compression test. I used a Craftsmen gauge set, after I bought it I found out that the local auto parts store had one for rent for only a few bucks. Anyway here are my readings from and engine that had only 900 miles on it:
#1 @ 160              #2 @ 130
#3 @ 150              #4 @ 155
#5 @ 155              #6 @ 160

Notice I had the same cylinder being low. I picked up a set of head gaskets, grinding compound and a set of hand grinding dowels that have suction cups of different sizes to fit the flat spot on the bottom of the valves and ordered a spring compressor from JP Cycles that would span the heads and dropped both heads. While removing the intake tubes I could see down in the heads that the valves were burnt black. The shop manual paid for itself going through this process. I disassembled both heads one at time keeping all the valves in order as they came out of the head. I used a 2 x4 with holes drilled it to resemble the alignment just like the head. A dremel was used with fine cupped wire wheels  to clean off all the carbon without scoring the valves and seats as well as steel wool on the stems. The valves were all polished in the head by hand. After going through all this she purrrrs just fine. The only thing I forgot do was to read the compression afterwards and record the readings for future reference. Sure I bought a lot of tools here but I have a motto, new job new tool.
FYI, the spring compressor tool did work as it was the only I could find at the time with a deep throat. I don't recommend it as it was a POS. The adjusting threads stripped in the lock nut and set in place for ever.It did however work well for this.

Good luck, keep us posted.

[98valk]

http://auto-rx.com/    will clean ring packs and restore compression

http://auto-rx.com/motorcycles.shtml

Thorough testing of Auto-Rx® was performed at the American Motorcycle Institute of Daytona Beach, Florida. AMI provided before-and-after compression test data, as well as used oil samples submitted to Dyson Analysis for review. See test results here.



high carbon content on the back of the valves, can be caused by fuel additives that have low temperature additives. when they hit the hot intake valve they solidify.  Seafoam is one such product, yes it cleans carb jets, but it will then solidify on the valve and the ring pacs. one of the ingredients is pale oil. who would puts oil, kerosine, or diesel fuel in the gas tank and doesn't expect problems down the road?

[Patrick]

Even cold, the compression should be higher than 90#.. Warm the engine and try it again, it'll make a difference.. What was/were/are the valve settings on the offending cylinder??  Even with only 40# the problem really shouldn't be a valve, but, the knowing the valve settings would help.. What style compression gauge are you using??

[Robert]

Want to sell your engine? pm me

[roadmap]

i did a compression on a cold and hot engine all the reading i posted were the same both cold and hot so maybe harbour sells cheap made in china stuff
my guages were from harbour frieght for $20 
i could have allot of carbonon all cylinders
i see in a post here about what the ama did and i am going to try that if i need to i will invest on one from a racing supply house or more of a professional kind thanks for the quick reply summer season is right around the corner here

[Robert]

No amount of oil in the cylinders will give you a proper pic if they are gas soaked. It will wash the oil off the walls and off the rings and the oil will only raise the compression by 20 to 30 psi at most. Next check your valves if they are to tight then you will not get a proper reading on the compression tester along with cam timing will cause low compression. I would really be surprised if your engine is toast. If you have the engine running let it warm then take the compression test, also a reliable gauge is cheaper than a new engine make sure you are not leaking compression somewhere and make sure the gauge is accurate. The reason I question this is, usually engines dont like to start with anything lower than about 80 psi compression. If yours starts and runs something is not right.

[sutterhome]

Oil on spark plug burning oil that cly? If answer is no, I would look at valves. Kinda old school. At least you don't have to worry about gaping the points.

[Madmike]

google "cylinder leakdown test"

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

 Are you blocking the throttle wide open when your doing your compression test. If you don't get air into the cylinder you won't get a true reading. Also did remove all the plugs while doing the test.I have 145k  miles on my valk and she's still running like a bat out of h3$$. Hope you find the problem as I know being without a valk is a bad thing.

[Blackduck]

I'm with Madmike on this, a cylinder leak down is the quickest way to determine where the comprssion is going.
An adapter can be made with an old sparkplug and airhose fitting and then just require a source of compressed air.
It is hard to keep a piston at top dead center when doing this, better to have it at bottom dead center and back the valve clearance off on the cylinder being tested so both valves are seated.
Remove the inlet manifold from that cylinder and the oil fill cap from the crankcase.
Apply air and listen for leaks/air flow from the exhaust, intake and crankcase. there should be a little from the crankcase and none from the exhaust or intake.
Maybe best to do this with a hot engine, I have seen a valve that seals cold but leaks when the engine is hot.

Cheers Steve