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Author Topic: De Smog Fast and Cheap  (Read 1310 times)
wolfemanjack
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Posts: 5


« on: March 07, 2012, 09:07:29 PM »

OK fellas, not gonna believe this. I De Smogged my interstate this afternoon. I've wanted to do this since I owned it, just never got around to it and decide what kit to use. Today I did and I'm happy and all for about 25 bucks.

I bought Red eyes stealth kit but decided to put a twist on it. I really do not mind the chrome steel exhaust air tubes and did not want to remove them so the stealth kit made sense but..I really wanted to gut the pair valves and plumbing under the air box for a cleaner look. And instead of just leaving the plugged chrome tubes suspended in mid air ( that looks silly ) I decided to tie both sides together so it looked clean and finished. It now looks like they do something important! Like a crossover of fuel lines or something like nitrous!. What could I use? black fuel line? braided hose? NOT, I found it !

Check out my cool kit addition !



Thats right folks 3/8"chrome plated copper toilet plumbing supply! I bought a 30" and a 12" length. fiqured I needed about 30". Actually if your real good with tube bending and fiquring you could do it with the 30", I'm not good so I got into the 12" pc, good thing i bought it too.

Ok, I had tank off, carbs out which made it easy, athough you could just pull the intake risers but I think it is easier with carbs and air box out wrestling with the bending and assembly.

What you need:

Red Eye stealth desmog kit
3/8" chrome plated toilet supply, three-12" pcs or one 30" and one 12"
Tubing cutter
Brake tubing bender
Small hammer Ball peen
Slip pliers
Silicone grease
Block of wood
Magic marker
3M electrical tape
2 vacuum caps for intakes ( in red eye kit )
rags or paper towels to plug intakes
Good dose of patience

Step 1.
Remove the pair valves and hoses, vacuum control valve that bolts to the carb chassis, including the two hoses and T to intakes 3 and 5. Remove the smog hose that runs to the air box, you will also need to stop up the one air box hole with silicone and nut and bolt (other threads) Also take the 6 rubber pair valve stubs off. Also this is a perfect time to clean your cases good, I used WD-40 and a rag. 

Step 2.
Use Redeyes steel plugs and tap them into the smog chrome air tubes, all 6 tube ends, silicone grease works good.



Step 3.
Look at the routing and the compound curves you will need to bend, I went under the chrome coolant tube in the center and used the old hose stubs for the rear center bushing to keep the new tube from rattling between the block cases and the coolant tube. There are 3 obvious routes under the coolant tube. This photo shows rear tube final alignment and cut to PERFECT length. Next I will move it away from the old tubes and add the red eye tubeing stubs both ends of the new tube to connect the old with the new, both sides. 



Tips and tricks:

Bend the tubing incrementally, put in from one side and keep checking bends, Its tricky so go slow and use a tubing bender if you can, I did mine by hand and got a couple of small kinks, fortunately they do not show at all. Also cut your near final bent tube over size by a little, once you get a final near perfect set of bends, the length can be marked with a magic marker and cut to perfect length. If it is a bit short, no problem the tube sleeves with hide your errors. Use suitable grease on entire inner side of Red eyes sleeves. They are a bear to slide over the plug. I used slip pliers, lightly squeeze and twist the rubber sleeve pulling and pounding the pliers with a hammer toward you, rocking it works while twising too. Also if you have a helper put a block of wood behind the old tube to solidify the hammer action.

From one side, I bent the center bends first, finish all bends on the side furthest from you first, checking, bending, checking again. Then finish bends nearest you. When happy mark and cut the tube on your side last.  You should end up with a few compound bends ( up or down and side to side )

Also the center and front tubes I could not fit the center bushing in that tight place, So the center one I wrapped with electrical tape and the front I used a smaller walled tube I had that was too small I.D so I cut it lengthwise and wrapped it with electrical tape. Nothing rattles at all.  The front tube was the hardest to bend, there is a pair valve boss to get round on the right side and takes 2 small radius bends. I did that one last. They match well with the original chrome tubes.







I'm not sure how much it shows to other people who look at your bike, Kind of a hidden area, but at least i am happy Smiley  If the state ever requires it, I still have all the smog parts in a box where they belong.

 
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dukesguy
Member
*****
Posts: 13


« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2012, 08:41:44 AM »

My '98 standard was partially desmogged when I bought it. The chrome tubes started to rust out. I had to "fix" two of them. I bought freeze plugs from NAPA, but I couldn't get the easiest one to go in.
I bought the de-smog kit from XF-6. The plugs went in easily. I highly recommend Darryl's kit from XF-6 to get rid of the chrome tubes. Good Luck.
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