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Author Topic: Bike will not start in gear??  (Read 2396 times)
steve 3054
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VRCC # 34853

Sanford,Fl. 352-267-1553


« on: March 10, 2012, 08:27:04 PM »

Hi, New Valk owner here...read something about a brass ring???  Why wont bike start in gear ???   Thanks    steve
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Colin
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My old job

Orba, Spain


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« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2012, 11:07:10 PM »

The things to check are the switch on the clutch lever and the sidestand switch.

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Colin
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junior
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Posts: 1427


new hampshire


« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2012, 04:50:01 AM »

your right it wont start in gear with the clutch in and the kickstand down, but it should start with you on the bike and the kickstand up and the clutch in
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Novavalker
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Posts: 625


99 Interstate/2017 Goldwing


« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2012, 08:17:42 AM »

Have a look here
http://lifeisaroad.com/clutchlever.html
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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2012, 11:36:33 AM »

New Valk owner here...  Why wont bike start in gear ??? 

Safety feature. Already nicely explained.

Kick stand up, clutch pulled all the way in, and it still wont start, then it could either be the stand cutoff switch not working (check your stand indicator light, non-IS), or your clutch leaver switch.

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steve 3054
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VRCC # 34853

Sanford,Fl. 352-267-1553


« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2012, 02:09:41 PM »

Thanks for all the help...checked both for wiring and yep the wires were there..will order a safety switch for the clutch...thanks again
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Gryphon Rider
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2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2012, 07:43:45 PM »

I'm betting you will have the same problem when you put the new switch in.  The cause of this problem is very likely wear in the pivot hole in your clutch lever, and is cured by replacing it with a new lever.  The round hole wears out into an oval shape, effectively moving the pivot point away from the clutch switch.  The tab that presses the switch is no longer able to push the switch far enough to make the switch close.  When this happened to me, I had about 1/4" of vertical play at the end of the lever, which reduced to 1/16" with the new lever.  Listen to the sound of the front brake switch clicking when you pull the brake lever; you should hear the same sound from the clutch lever when the lever is pulled all the way in.  If not, try very firmly pushing the end of the clutch lever straight in towards the pivot with your left hand while pulling the lever in with the right hand.  If that makes the difference in hearing the switch close or not, you know the problem is a worn lever.
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chumba
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« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2012, 07:09:21 AM »

A continuity test on the clutch swith will prove it to be either good or bad, my guess if the switch is good you have a corroded terminal in the starter solenoid connector --good luck --Steve
I'm betting you will have the same problem when you put the new switch in.  The cause of this problem is very likely wear in the pivot hole in your clutch lever, and is cured by replacing it with a new lever.  The round hole wears out into an oval shape, effectively moving the pivot point away from the clutch switch.  The tab that presses the switch is no longer able to push the switch far enough to make the switch close.  When this happened to me, I had about 1/4" of vertical play at the end of the lever, which reduced to 1/16" with the new lever.  Listen to the sound of the front brake switch clicking when you pull the brake lever; you should hear the same sound from the clutch lever when the lever is pulled all the way in.  If not, try very firmly pushing the end of the clutch lever straight in towards the pivot with your left hand while pulling the lever in with the right hand.  If that makes the difference in hearing the switch close or not, you know the problem is a worn lever.
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lee
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Northeast Tennessee


« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2012, 09:51:33 AM »

Clutch switch is a micro switch.  Put your ear down close to it and slowly pull lever in. You should hear the click.
If you don't then lever is not making the switch.
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C. Drewry
chumba
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« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2012, 02:56:24 AM »

Have you replaced the clutch switch? did that resolve the no start issue?
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steve 3054
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VRCC # 34853

Sanford,Fl. 352-267-1553


« Reply #10 on: March 20, 2012, 05:24:58 AM »

Switch was bad ...thanks for all the help!!!
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Frazer
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« Reply #11 on: June 19, 2013, 11:34:54 AM »

This thread is fairly old, but I just went through the same issue with my 98 Tourer.  Here is something else to check for:  the clutch switch has a little alignment pin (part of the plastic housing) that fits into a corresponding hole where the switch mounts under the master cylinder assembly.  If the pin is not seated correctly in the hole, then the switch does not align correctly and the clutch lever will not activate it when depressed.  To casual observation, it may look like its in place.  Easy test is as suggested by another poster:  depress the clutch lever and listen for the micro switch to click. 

To test your switch: test electrically by removing the switch, putting an ohmmeter over the terminals then pushing in the little button to check for continuity.  If that fails - you need a new switch.  If that work, but a similar test with the switch installed and pressing the clutch lever fails, then its mechanical.  Might be wear on the clutch lever assembly, wear on the switch or (as mentioned above) misaligned switch.
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Novavalker
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99 Interstate/2017 Goldwing


« Reply #12 on: June 19, 2013, 05:20:39 PM »

Mine was caused by the Kuryakn grip turning slightly and the clutch lever was hitting the rubber pad. Twisted the grip so the clutch lever made contact with the medal part of the grip. That little extra was enough to interfere with the clutch micro switch.
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