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Author Topic: Any GM 4 wheel drive expert on here? 1990 blazer part time type  (Read 1361 times)
Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« on: March 11, 2012, 08:46:20 AM »

 My 1990 full size blazers 4 wheel drive is not engaging. The shafts are turning and your can hear clicking in the outer hubs like it is trying to engage but not pulling. TIA
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YoungPUP
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Valparaiso, In


« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2012, 09:11:34 AM »

Check the actuator on the pass side of the front pumpkin, pull it out of the case and have someone shift into 4x4 while you watch it. These are known for going out.
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olddog1946
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Moses Lake, Wa


« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2012, 09:15:49 AM »

My 1990 full size blazers 4 wheel drive is not engaging. The shafts are turning and your can hear clicking in the outer hubs like it is trying to engage but not pulling. TIA

 cooldude cooldude cooldude
10-4 on that
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Skinhead
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J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2012, 09:18:15 AM »

Check the terminals on the connector to the actuator, and the seal on the connecter.  If the terminals are corroded, try cleaning them with toilet bowl cleaner (don't laugh , it works) and then apply silicone grease to protect from further corrosion.  Poor connection will prevent the actuator from doing it's thing.
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Troy, MI
Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2012, 10:15:54 AM »

I don't think this one has
the electric stuff. You just put it 4 wheel drive and the hubs engage. It has the old solid one piece diff. To disengage you just put it back in 2 wheel drive and backup about 15 to 20 feet.                                                                   
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gregc
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Media Pa.


« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2012, 10:24:49 AM »

 Sounds like the hubs are in need of a good cleaning and new grease.   The grease in those hubs will turn into almost a wax like paste.  Just pop the hubs apart and clean them with some kero, you should not have to get into the wheel bearings. Relube the hubs with some water proof grease and you are good to go.
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Alien
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« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2012, 10:27:27 AM »

It has an actuator on the front axle.  It's thermally activated and is famous for crapping out.  An easy fix is to replace it with a 4x4 Posi Lock which is cable actuated. http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/  This offers positive, trouble free engagement.
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2012, 10:49:02 AM »

 Well as soon as the rain lets up I'll go look for an actuator. Thanks for all the help.
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YoungPUP
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Valparaiso, In


« Reply #8 on: March 11, 2012, 05:36:56 PM »

Sorry should've asked first, is this an ifs unit or solid front axle. The actuator is for IFS, if its solid axle then the auto hubs may be  in need of a clean and regrease, or replace with quality manual units like warn, or milemarker. ( Insert smiley chewing on own foot)
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99 STD (Under construction)
Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2012, 05:43:20 PM »

Well it made  the drive home today Smiley so in the morning I'll pull the wheel off. I think maybe be a wheel bearing or a brake problem is part of the problem with the right wheel. Sometimes makes a popping noise when going slow and applying the brakes. I love the old truck so it'll be a labor of love. Thanks for the help.
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jer0177
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VRCC 32975

Pittsburgh, PA


« Reply #10 on: March 11, 2012, 06:20:57 PM »

It's a 90 K-5, so it's a SFA.

It doesn't have an actuator.  It has "auto-lock" front hubs.

Replace the Auto-lock front hubs with a set of Warn manual locking ones.  You'll never regret it.  (you will have to replace the hub nuts though - the OE auto-lock hub nuts won't work with the Warn manually locking hubs).
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RoadKill
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Manhattan KS


« Reply #11 on: March 11, 2012, 06:39:41 PM »

It's a 90 K-5, so it's a SFA.

It doesn't have an actuator.  It has "auto-lock" front hubs.

Replace the Auto-lock front hubs with a set of Warn manual locking ones.  You'll never regret it.  (you will have to replace the hub nuts though - the OE auto-lock hub nuts won't work with the Warn manually locking hubs).


         +1    X10
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~ Timbrwolf
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Northern Michigan VRCC # 8533


« Reply #12 on: March 11, 2012, 06:48:27 PM »

...let me get in on this...I have a 97 2 door Blazer LS ....push button 4X4....press button on dash....light comes on....doesnt work....any Ideas ? ..  ???
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fudgie
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Huntington Indiana


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« Reply #13 on: March 11, 2012, 08:21:32 PM »

...let me get in on this...I have a 97 2 door Blazer LS ....push button 4X4....press button on dash....light comes on....doesnt work....any Ideas ? ..  ???

Does it just flash and then go back to 2H? Does it sound like it wants to engage but doesn't? Could be the actuator. There is a vac type which is common or it could be a electric one. Something else to check is under the front end (middle)  by the transfer case is a spark plug/O2 sensor looking thing with a cable on it. Unscrew it and there is a ball bearing looking in the end of it. She if the ball is moveable, its spring loaded I believe, its good. That could be bad if it dont move.

Kits 01 blazer did the same thing. 4H would flash, make a noice and then go back to 2H. I bought a vac actuator but could not find it. Took in to get looked at and it ended up being a rare electric actuator. Its mounted on the firewall of the engine compartment. Replaced it and its fine all winter.

Timber, yours sounds like a inexpensive fix.
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #14 on: March 12, 2012, 06:58:19 AM »

They made three different blazers for a couple of years .The S-10 smaller one, the new body style carried the K-5  model number and the old style got new model number V-10. Mine is the V-10 looks like the body style from 73 until 90. Mine is the last year of the removal rear roof section. It has the sodid front axle and the self locking hubs.
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flcjr
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Manhattan,Montana


« Reply #15 on: March 12, 2012, 07:17:54 AM »

mr. Bubbles   check your hubs it sounds like thats where your problem is.
Timber check your vaccuum lines to canister under hood and to swith on top lh side of t-case this usually the cause of no engagement on your style blazer. less common on yours is the acuator itself wich is under the battery but be sure to check all lines and possibly the switch on the t-case.
  This is 18 years as a gm tech talking.
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Alien
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« Reply #16 on: March 12, 2012, 08:05:33 AM »

It's a 90 K-5, so it's a SFA.

It doesn't have an actuator.  It has "auto-lock" front hubs.

Replace the Auto-lock front hubs with a set of Warn manual locking ones.  You'll never regret it.  (you will have to replace the hub nuts though - the OE auto-lock hub nuts won't work with the Warn manually locking hubs).

100% correct.  I was thinking IFS after 88 but the Blazers and Subs didn't make the switch until 92.  Sorry if I led you astray!  uglystupid2
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~ Timbrwolf
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Northern Michigan VRCC # 8533


« Reply #17 on: March 12, 2012, 08:29:26 AM »

...Thanks for the insight Fudgie. ...I,ll give it a look see. ...dont forget that The Q in de Woods is commin up fast on Memorial Day Weekend ! ..  cooldude
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #18 on: March 12, 2012, 07:12:29 PM »

The right )passanger ) side outer wheel bearing came out in about a hundred piece inner race a bunch of loose rollers and a completely chewed up cage. I've gotten it all cleaned up and will put it all back together tomorrow. I think the lack of an outer bearing may have kept the hub from engaging and since this is not a posi unit if one side  doesn't engage the other won't pull. Gonna  pull the other side down and put new bearings in it and see if everything works after putting it all back together. Thanks for all  ya'll help.
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fudgie
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Huntington Indiana


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« Reply #19 on: March 13, 2012, 04:43:22 AM »

...Thanks for the insight Fudgie. ...I,ll give it a look see. ...dont forget that The Q in de Woods is commin up fast on Memorial Day Weekend ! ..  cooldude

Looking forward to it!  cooldude
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