10 mm nuts that hold on mufflers

[vrcc2838]

Some of the 10 mm acorn nuts that hold on mufflers are tough to get a wrench on much less a torque wrench,  any tricks or special tools that i should no about

[Sergeant D]

I replaced mine.  Used vise grips which gave a secure hold but marred the finish, hence the replacement, but I expect future work will be significantly easier the next time around since I used anti seize compound on the threads.  Everything on my bike is 15 years old and by the klooks of it, no routine maintenance.

[vrcc2838]

Had some decleration poping in exhust, checked acorn nuts that hold on exhust pipes and most were loose and one was missing,  Some are pretty tough to get a wrench on much less a torque wrench. Any tricks you guys could pass on would be appreciated . thank you. vrcc2838                                         

[R J]

I use a 1/4" ratchet, wiggle universal and about a 4" extension.

I don't use a Torque wrench on them as there is no way you can torque some of the nuts, so if can't torque them all, I don't torque any.

Turning wrenches most of my life, even when I was a CHiP, I figure I can come pretty close to the right torque on most nuts, studs or whatever, only thing I use a Torque wrench on is the back axle, front axle of the Valk, the Mag wheels on the Chevy trike, rods, mains and heads.

[SPOFF]

I use a 1/4 universal joint that has 10mm socket mounted on one end and a variety of different extensions. I also don't use a torque wrench (spec is 7 ft/lbs). I use a 5 inch breaker bar which I push with a thumb calibrated with 50 years experience. I've been using that particular wrench for 50 years, BTW. It belonged to my Dad when Craftsman wrenches were made in America with American steel.   

[Jess from VA]

These are your friends, in metric (and SAE).  Thou I didn't buy craftsman (I got the much cheaper Costco sets, probably Taiwan, but never broke one in 15 years)



EDIT:  When referring to MUFFLERS, I though we were discussing the exhaust hangers at the rear pegs, not the HEADER NUTS.

[hubcapsc]

Some of the 10 mm acorn nuts that hold on mufflers are tough to get a wrench on much less a torque wrench,  any tricks or special tools that i should no about

I sneak up on them with this low profile curved wrench:



Those studs break off real easy, I wouldn't put a torque wrench on them...

I had my mufflers on and off a bunch when I got the bike, new gaskets for each
header are a good idea if you take the the mufflers off...

-Mike "and those OEM acorn nuts cost about $50 each"

[R J]

The stud is two different sizes.       The part that goes into the head is twice the size in diameter than the Acorn nut end.

You'd have to egg hole the crap out of the header manifold to use them, I wouldn't advise it.

If ya put the nut on, and tighten it to like 7 ft/lbs, ride it for a day, re-tighten the acorns when ya get home, then repeat this a couple more times (ride it for a day, re-tighten the acorns when ya get home,) and then leave them alone, they should stay.....

When ya keep muckin with them is when they won't stay tight or ya bust a stud off, which ever occurs first.

These bikes were made to ride and just due normal maintenance at the 5,000 mile intervals.   Every 2nd 5,000, I pull the rear wheel, clean up the splines, pack them in Water proof front wheel bearing grease and put it back together.  Change the oil & filter, I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic, I think it is 15W50.

[Gryphon Rider]

Like others above, I use a gear wrench and a calibrated elbow to tighten the exhaust hanger nuts.  I lost one of them and replaced it with a flange nut which, unfortunately, requires a different wrench size.

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

I use a 1/4" ratchet, a couple different extensions and an end wrench. No torque wrench. Don't use an adapter and a 3/8" ratchet, too much leverage will cause you to break them. I'm a lifetime industrial mechanic and one thing I've learned, never use a bigger ratchet than the job requires.

I usually tighten mine when they are smokin' hot and then they stay tight much longer.

[Brian]

I just put my exhaust back on thinking I would take the 10mm combination to the grinder to remove some of the steel on both ends for those nuts in the back with a beveled edge. This wrench would then only be used for this job as not much torque is needed to tighten these maybe not breaking the wrench.

Just thinking.

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

I just put my exhaust back on thinking I would take the 10mm combination to the grinder to remove some of the steel on both ends for those nuts in the back with a beveled edge. This wrench would then only be used for this job as not much torque is needed to tighten these maybe not breaking the wrench.

Just thinking.

Good idea. I've got several "special purpose" wrenches at work. Never thought of doing the same for the valk exhaust.

[Brian]

I forgot to mention that the leftside could all be done with 1/4 drive with a u-joint and an extension. The rightside is where the rear nuts are really close to exhaust headers.

[Brian]

I use a 1/4 universal joint that has 10mm socket mounted on one end and a variety of different extensions. I also don't use a torque wrench (spec is 7 ft/lbs). I use a 5 inch breaker bar which I push with a thumb calibrated with 50 years experience. I've been using that particular wrench for 50 years, BTW. It belonged to my Dad when Craftsman wrenches were made in America with American steel.   

At Sears

Mase, have you used this socket and is it deep enough for the acorn nut that it doesn't start to round over the corners? Might have to add this to the tool box. Thanks.

[salty1]

I use a small 10 mm combination wrench. Put the box end on the nut and slide the open end onto the 3/8" torque wrench attachment point. Torque to spec. Some movements might be small but it works well on the exhaust headers. I have checked this approach out on more accessible nuts and the torque is the same in either normal use of the wrench or having the combination wrench as an extension. I keep the combination wrench in line with the torque wrench as much as possible. Hope that makes sense.