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Author Topic: Clutch  (Read 1111 times)
grandpaweaver
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Posts: 565


Barberton, Ohio


« on: March 25, 2012, 05:18:38 PM »

Got enough time today to finish changing the clutch fluid and an oil change. Took a short ride and things seemed ok except the clutch grabs right away as I release it. Before it would need to be more than half way out before reaching the friction zone. Which way is right and does it need adjustment?
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Isaiah 41:10
Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2012, 05:47:23 PM »

There is no adjustment and these do engage late/ lever almost fully released.. There still should be a little clearance but it won't be much.. A little extra clearance can be gained by filing/grinding about .020" off the pushrod..
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grandpaweaver
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Posts: 565


Barberton, Ohio


« Reply #2 on: March 26, 2012, 07:16:50 AM »

There is no adjustment and these do engage late/ lever almost fully released.. There still should be a little clearance but it won't be much.. A little extra clearance can be gained by filing/grinding about .020" off the pushrod..

Ok then why would it change just because I changed the fluid?
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Isaiah 41:10
BonS
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Posts: 2198


Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #3 on: March 26, 2012, 07:47:58 AM »

Perhaps you got a little air in the system as you changed the fluid. A bit more bleeding may restore the original feel.
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Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #4 on: March 26, 2012, 09:18:51 AM »

Oops, sorry, I mis-read your post.. I read it as your clutch used to engage sooner than it does now.. All of these monsters that I have been around, the clutch engages near the completely released position[lever almost all out].. It may be hard to feel air  in these lines and you may still have air in the system..
When you pull in the lever, keep it pulled in while opening the bleeder.. Close the bleeder then release the lever.. Repeat.. Don't let the cylinder run out of fluid..
If this doesn't correct the problem you may have an issue with the master cylinder..
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grandpaweaver
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Posts: 565


Barberton, Ohio


« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2012, 10:15:07 AM »

Oops, sorry, I mis-read your post.. I read it as your clutch used to engage sooner than it does now.. All of these monsters that I have been around, the clutch engages near the completely released position[lever almost all out].. It may be hard to feel air  in these lines and you may still have air in the system..
When you pull in the lever, keep it pulled in while opening the bleeder.. Close the bleeder then release the lever.. Repeat.. Don't let the cylinder run out of fluid..
If this doesn't correct the problem you may have an issue with the master cylinder..

I was using a mityvac do I still hold lever in?
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Isaiah 41:10
Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2012, 12:55:17 PM »

I don't think you should have to, but, I use my little Mity-vac for a lot of things, but, not bleeding brakes.. I still tend to do brakes the old-fashioned way..
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sandy
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Posts: 5403


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #7 on: March 26, 2012, 05:15:26 PM »

SOMETIMES a bit of air gets trapped at the banjo bolt at the outlet of the master cylinder. Get a wrench handy and break the B bolt with the lever depressed.
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john
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Posts: 3018


tyler texas


« Reply #8 on: March 26, 2012, 09:03:26 PM »

Got enough time today to finish changing the "clutch fluid "                coolsmiley
don't grind anything               Shocked
look for and buy  "adjustable " brake and clutch (chrome) levers for a goldwing ...       cooldude
if you need to grind something
you can grind a little tab off one of them so as to fit your valkyrie ...  
ajust for a short throw ... life is good             Smiley
    
   google search    
goldwing adjustable brake and clutch levers
« Last Edit: March 26, 2012, 09:14:54 PM by john » Logged

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