Newbie trigger wheel question.

[Redline +]

I bought my first Valkyrie 3 weeks ago, 2002 Standard, I've been lurking around this sight ever since. Been reading about the trigger wheel. If I remove the timing cover how do I identify a stock or aftermarket wheel. The bike only has 6500 miles. Looking at the timing cover bolts it looks like it may have been removed, but why? Maybe a trigger wheel, but how do I tell?

My bike is stock except for Cobra pipes, rejet, hondaline windshield and leather bags. Goes like a bat out of hell.  

  

[Ricky-D]

When you remove the cover you will easily see the timing wheel. You may be able to see the identification mraking on the timing wheel, but I kinda doubt it.  It's been many years since I did mine.  You may have to remove the timing wheel from the motor to identify it properly.  It's a simple job, pretty straight forward and there's ton of help and directions right here on this forum.

[Thunderbolt]

removing the right belt to look at the wheel could be risky in my opinion.  I put a 4 degree wheel on my 97 Tourer years ago.  The valve spring tension may rotate the cam wheel.  Mine moved a small amount, but was able to re-align before turning the engine.  Point here is that several people have done wheels and changed belts and had the belt off one tooth etc. and bent valves on the first startup.  Don't attempt this type of job unless you are very sure of what you are doing.  I obviously don't know your skill level or how much you have read on the subject, and am not trying to be a smart aleck, just be careful.

[Ghillie]

Can I hear from some riders who have the trigger wheels installed. My mechanic said that advancing the timing would beat the bearings to death. Anyone with any experience with this.

[Grandude]

Here's a pic of the stock wheel.

[Patrick]

There are two different aftermarket triggers.. One has square teeth like the original while the other has more pointed teeth.. An aftermarket is marked with the amount of advance, ie, 004 or 006.. You do have to remove the right drive pulley to see that though,, if memory serves.. If you remove a pulley, alignment mark the pulleys and belt just in case one decides to move..Don't allow the belt to jump a tooth.. Advancing the base timing will not hurt the engine bearings as long as its done within reason.. 4 degrees [004]of advance seems to work well and can be used on any of these bikes[ some feel that the 004 is for the IS model only but thats not true].. There doesn't seem to be many instances of spark knock/ping/detonation with this wheel compared to the 6 degree[006] wheel[most tend to  use the 006 wheel on the std or tour models]..There is a difference in ICMs[mapping] between the IS and STD/tour models..

[Redline +]

Thanks for your responses, when I get a chance I think I'll pull the cover and take a look. Probably won't change anything, it runs too good to mess with. Just a gearhead thing, I need to know what's in there now. 

[john]

Goes like a bat out of hell. 

don't mess with it ... 
go for a ride

[asfltdncr]

I've had a 6 degree trigger wheel on mine for over 20k miles and enjoy the quick throttle response it has given the bike.It eliminated the flat spot on the bottom end.I am told the only sacrifice is at 110mph plus.I've never heard about it being hard on the bearings.

[Fully]

I have a 2002 standard.  best bike i have ever owned.  Bought it from the original owner who had the 6 degree trigger wheel installed.  It runs great on high octane but has a little predetonation buzz in the mid range.  I just put a 4 degree trigger on and like it better.  still running high octane but no buzz.  Nice roll on power, fricken love it.  I think the 6 was too much advance.  I have also read about the interstate ignitor for my standard and bought one on ebay for $147 and plan to try it.  I think it advances a little more in the low end which would be good, then returns before you hit 3500 rpm.  You don't want too much advance in the mid or upper rpm's.

[Tundra]

I've had a 6 degree trigger wheel on mine for over 20k miles and enjoy the quick throttle response it has given the bike.It eliminated the flat spot on the bottom end.I am told the only sacrifice is at 110mph plus.I've never heard about it being hard on the bearings.

  +1

[Warlock]

I bought my first Valkyrie 3 weeks ago, 2002 Standard, I've been lurking around this sight ever since. Been reading about the trigger wheel. If I remove the timing cover how do I identify a stock or aftermarket wheel. The bike only has 6500 miles. Looking at the timing cover bolts it looks like it may have been removed, but why? Maybe a trigger wheel, but how do I tell?

My bike is stock except for Cobra pipes, rejet, hondaline windshield and leather bags. Goes like a bat out of hell.  

  

I have 6 degree on both of my Valks. They are the Airlake brand. The 99 Tourer has been on 60 plus thousand miles. Have had it up to 130 mph on speedo .
David

[Walküre]

I have several 4's and 6's, picked up in a "package" deal. All of my aftermarket ones, the wheel itself is solid. If you look at the pic above, the stock has four oblong cut-outs. Not sure if ALL the aftermarket's are solid, but pretty sure ALL the stock have the cut-outs. someone can correct me, please, if I'm wrong. You can see the cut-outs without removing anything but the dust cover. Changed mine out last week, piece-o-cake. Just be careful, and aware of what you are doing.

Took mine out today after putting a 6 degree, square teeth in. Made a world of difference, Very nice (, even throttle response throughout the range - of course, I don't go 110 mph...in fact, I got it up to about 75 today (just 5 mph less than the wind!!!), and that's about as fast as I go. Happy with it!

R

[ricoman]

you cannot tell what trigger wheel is installed by looking through
 the center cover. You cannot easily see the trigger wheel, only the teeth. There will be no visible markings on the teeth denoting what degree wheel is in use.
Removal of the right belt and then the pully from the crank will allow you to see the trigger wheel.
When I changed the wheel (and later went back to stock) on two different Valks, I wrote on the front of the belt guide plate with a marker saying 6 degree or stock. I did this so what wheel was in use could easily be determined and because I may forget.
The mechanic who told Ghillie that advancing the timing would beat the bearings to death is not terribly knowledgeable in my opinion.

[Redline +]

Thanks for the replies to my question. I posted this question May of 2009 as a new Valk owner. I still haven't looked, I've had no reason to remove the timing cover. Whatever's in there is working fine.

Redline 

[John U.]

The Airlake 4 degree trigger wheel(the one with square teeth) is a solid disk and is marked:
       out
     W-004
TRIGGER WHEEL

Now that you've heard all about trigger wheels, take a look in the shop talk section for the article on the
ECT mod. It is cheap and adjustable if you install the potentiometer. The max advance is 10degrees but you can dial that down or turn it off entirely. Plus it won't make the bike harder to start and won't adversly affect top end.

[Earl in Pensacola]

DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!  Some VERY SMART people built the Valkyrie and She runs best and has a very reliable engine in stock form!!  My '97 is up to 234K now and has never had to have the engine opened further than for valve adjustments and for ONE replacement set of belts.  You seemed to be impressed with her performance, so go enjoy her.  "If it ain't broke--Don't fix it!!"