fairing inserts

[sugerbear]

someone a long time ago bought a bunch of fairing inserts(brass piece the the screws go into). wondering if they are still around and would they sell a few. thought they bought like 50 or so.

ring a bell with anyone?

[Windjammer]

I could use a few myself. Tried to Glue them in with JB weld. Not to happy with the results. I did get them out of the plastic, cleaned them up and epoxied them back in. Just not holding good enough. The ones that are good still, I am using anti seize this time.

[NJF6Cowboy]

I gave up on those pieces of crap along time ago. Tried epoxy, glue, never seize, etc. they still would become loose.

I found threaded brass inserts at Sears Hardware used for cabinet work. They are a course thread outside which turns and grips the ABS and center is tapped for a brass large head screw. Problem solved.

[amazngrace]

Windjammer and Sugerbear, I have 2 of the inserts (and screws) missing from my new to me IS.
HDL has them at $2.50 each, part number 90316-MJ1-000.

Was just looking through all the past posts on this, and getting ready to order four (and some other factory parts) for me in the next week or 2. Email me if you would like me to order a few extra for you.
I'm going to go to ACE hardware (my fastener go-to place) to find suitable replacements for the screws.

....ED

[sugerbear]

i looked until i was blue on hdl and couldn't find them

where were they?

[amazngrace]

Apparently, they don't list them for the Valk.

The number is on Jeff K's parts page near the bottom. There have been
several discussions regarding the # and I believe that this is the correct one.

http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

...ED

[Windjammer]

I gave up on those pieces of crap along time ago. Tried epoxy, glue, never seize, etc. they still would become loose.

I found threaded brass inserts at Sears Hardware used for cabinet work. They are a course thread outside which turns and grips the ABS and center is tapped for a brass large head screw. Problem solved.

That sounds like the way to go. Thanks I will go see what I can find. Now if I can just keep the blinders on and not start checking out the tool section?????

[sugerbear]

i'm off to sears. thanks.

[Steve K (IA)]

The problem is that the screws are "shoulder" screws.  When that squared off shoulder makes contact with the flat shoulder on the insert, no matter how gently you tighten them, they are TIGHT.  And as we all know when trying to remove the screws, they are so tight against the inserts that the insert will spin in the plastic boss in the fairing.

So...the screw tightens against the insert, not the inner fairing speaker panels.  I imagine this is so the inner panels don't crack at the holes from over tightening those screws.  Seems to prevent one problem while creating another.

[wiggydotcom]

I gave up on those pieces of crap along time ago. Tried epoxy, glue, never seize, etc. they still would become loose.

I found threaded brass inserts at Sears Hardware used for cabinet work. They are a course thread outside which turns and grips the ABS and center is tapped for a brass large head screw. Problem solved.

NJF6Cowboy,
Is the insert you're talking about similar to the one on the right in this pic? Just trying to get a visual.

[NJF6Cowboy]

hi Wiggy

The inserts I used would be the second one from the right. Also used a large headed brass screw seems to tighten to the inner fairing wtihout cracking or being loose. I use never seize on the screw each time I remove it.

Stan

[HayHauler]

I followed some advice from a post from long ago and put small o-rings on the bolts before screwing them in.  Seems like they tighten up before contacting the insert and provide a sort of noise reducer in the process.
I always use anti-seize on these bolts. 

Hay
Jimmyt

[alph]

I gave up on those pieces of crap along time ago. Tried epoxy, glue, never seize, etc. they still would become loose.

I found threaded brass inserts at Sears Hardware used for cabinet work. They are a course thread outside which turns and grips the ABS and center is tapped for a brass large head screw. Problem solved.

that's exactly what i did!!  i drilled and tapped mine to fit the same size bolt, then turned 'em down on a lathe a little so the thread wouldn't be so hard on the plastic.  used JB weld to secure 'em in, that's been four years now.  oh, yeah, don't forget to coat your bolts with antisieze to prevent them from rusting onto the brass, or buy some stainless steel bolts with allen heads, that worked great for me.