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Author Topic: New Rotor bolts? Really?  (Read 1590 times)
GJS
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Posts: 424


Today is the tomorrow you worried about yesterday.

Vancouver Island, BC, Canada


« on: April 25, 2012, 05:29:58 PM »

Hi all,

I am interested to learn why Honda wants Rotor Bolts each time they are removed.

Why is this. They look fine to me.
Maybe metal fatigue?

Anyone ever found any missing?

Best regards,

Glenn
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16789


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2012, 05:37:03 PM »


It might be that you can only trust the torque specs in the manual when you have a new
bolt with factory applied thread lock coating on it.

I've taken mine off, and reused them with blue loctite on them, didn't
use a torque wrench when I put them back on...

-Mike "not dead yet"
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Hook#3287
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Posts: 6501


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2012, 06:29:35 PM »

I've reused mine several times with locktight.  I've also broken several.  They are easy to break, so use a torque wrench.
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GreenLantern57
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Hail to the king baby!

Rock Hill, SC


« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2012, 06:53:24 PM »

When a manufacture recommends replacement of a torqued bolt, it is usually because they have designed/specked the bolt to have  little stretch. Now that the bolt is stretched, they want it replaced and not used. Truthfully, they can be used over and over again, some will break, some will not, but a manufacture has to recommend replacement bolts for design/safety/liability purposes.

How many of you will use a cotter pin over and over again until it breaks, same principal. All manufactures recommend a new cotter pin, everytime. Heck, I remember using nails on my bicycles to replace some cotter pins.  Glad my uncle taught me better before I started riding motorcycles.
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Hoser
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child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2012, 08:13:01 PM »

I have found nothing other than internal engine parts that really needs a tork wrench. IMHO of course. 98K and nothings fallen off yet.  Cheesy  Hoser
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Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2012, 03:06:58 PM »

Quote
Posted by: Hoser



I have found nothing other than internal engine parts that really needs a tork wrench. IMHO of course. 98K and nothings fallen off yet.    Hoser

Usually, I use the "If this falls off, will I die" rule to torqueing a bolt or nut.   And I try to use them when doing the exhaust manifold nuts, on the ones I can get too.   I learned about 3 decades working in a Honda shop, if you over torque those puppies, you gonna pay. tickedoff tickedoff
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Hoser
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child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2012, 06:05:12 PM »

I'm more likely to under tighten than to bust something by over torking.(sic)  Hoser
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GJS
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Today is the tomorrow you worried about yesterday.

Vancouver Island, BC, Canada


« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2012, 09:46:26 AM »

Thanks Guys,

I think I'll just use lock-tite and a torque wrench.
I learned long ago to trust engineers when they have gone to the trouble to give me a torque setting to start with. I'll stop shy of replacing what look to be Good bolts.

Cheers,

Glenn
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RP#62
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Gilbert, AZ


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« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2012, 06:51:41 PM »

About Engineers- 
-RP

Dilbert - The Knack "The Curse of the Engineer"powered by Aeva
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SPOFF
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Derry, NH


« Reply #9 on: April 30, 2012, 07:16:38 PM »


Heck, I remember using nails on my bicycles to replace some cotter pins.  Glad my uncle taught me better before I started riding motorcycles.

What's wrong with a nail?   Shocked
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da prez
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Wilmot Wi


« Reply #10 on: May 01, 2012, 09:17:53 AM »

 One trick to torquing properly is to make sure the threads are clean. In most cases, I use a thread tap  and die to chase the threads and brake clean to clean followed by compressed air if possible. 
  Run the bolt in by hand , then if free or a very slight drag is felt, put on the right type of locktite . Different types by color are for different applications.  Just my two cents worth (B-4 taxes)
                                                          da prez
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