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Mase
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« on: May 11, 2012, 08:19:31 AM » |
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I have received the complete kit of Orings and other items to rebuild the carb bank.
Any tips other than using the manual to rebuild them ? Any other links for the work?
Thank for the help.
Mase
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Madmike
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« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2012, 09:22:50 AM » |
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Sometimes if I am doing an unfamiliar task and there is lots of linkage etc. I take some pictures before starting and as I progress to help remember how things go back together.............
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2012, 10:33:46 AM » |
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Just make sure they are cleaned completely, some have had to do the job a second time..
Along Mikes line, I write down some notes sometimes..
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JC
Member
Posts: 321
The Beast
Franklin, TN
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« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2012, 11:27:15 AM » |
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Just take your time, lay everything out in order as it is removed, and only do one carb at a time.
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Damn thing gives me the grins every time I get on it!
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Dozer
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« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2012, 12:11:49 PM » |
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I am in the middle of doing mine now. I suggest you take LOTS of close up pics or a vid clip...use a pointer or scribe to point out specific parts and their locations, especially the linkage. I had a spring pop out of the linkage when I separated them. I have no idea where it goes but I think it may be a sync spring. I am doing one carb at a time, soaking each in carb cleaner over night after its torn down. I'm replacing the slow jets rather than cleaning them. It feels like its taking forever but I know when they are done they will be clean. Pls keep the thread going...I stand to learn more from this too..
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Danny
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« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2012, 02:11:46 PM » |
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+1 on everyones input. Do not do what I did. I tore everything apart and got into one or two carbs then let it sit for uh 2 years. No pics, nothing. Got all my parts and it still sat. Eventually I got around to it, the shop manual is good, and a lot of questions on this forum. Reguardless after two years of tear down and stalling it went together really well. You get the hang of it after carb one or two and they got faster after that. If I can accomplish it despite my procrastination you should be okay. Desmog while you are in there and replace the vac lines and fuel lines. With the tank off good time to put in a new petcock or pingle and quick disconnect. Need to get the pilot adjust tool or make one. Are you going with bigger jets? Are you going to rebuild the carbs as a assy or individually and replace the fuel rail o rings? If individually some penetrant oil will be your best friend.
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« Last Edit: May 11, 2012, 02:16:09 PM by Danny »
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Valkhound
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« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2012, 03:07:11 PM » |
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I just finished rebuilding a set of very gummed up Valk carbs that had sat for some time with very good results. I too put new slow jets in. At less than $4 each from Chapparall why take a chance? I also ordered the complete oring kit from redeye tech and was very pleased with it. One thing I did which made it much easier for me was to number the individual carbs with an ingraving pen and got 6 small tupperware like bowls and numbered them to match and keep all of the parts back to their respective carbs. When I did tear the carbs down I only tore down one bank at a time and let them soak in carb cleaner overnight. Leaving one bank together sure made it alot easier to have something to look at when putting the other 3 carbs back together and getting the linkages right.Be sure to use plenty of carb cleaner.I also use hot water for the last rinse and blow everything out with air to make sure any residual carb cleanig chemical is removed. Ran like a top after reinstall and synching them.  |
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Dirty Dave
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« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2012, 05:08:17 PM » |
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Friend of mine resucitated an 84 Gold Wing that had been left for years in a barn. Boiled metal carb parts in lemon juice (you heard me) with great results. I synched his carbs. Runs great. Who woulda thunk it........
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Dozer
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« Reply #8 on: May 12, 2012, 09:32:56 AM » |
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Friend of mine resucitated an 84 Gold Wing that had been left for years in a barn. Boiled metal carb parts in lemon juice (you heard me) with great results. I synched his carbs. Runs great. Who woulda thunk it........
Probably cheaper than Gunk or Barryman's commercial carb cleaner, then ya can make lemonade with the left overs!  |
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pcvalkrider
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« Reply #9 on: May 20, 2012, 08:22:07 AM » |
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I am in the process of rebuilding my carbs after the bike sitting too long (couldn't ride due to knee injury). I cleaned the carbs by soaking all the parts in Pine-Sol cut with water. Let them soak completely submerged for 2 days and then used a tooth brush to remove the stuborn stains. They cleaned up great. All of the gunk and dried varnish in the bowls came right out. I water rinsed them and blew them dry. I will spray carb cleaner through all the ports prior to assembly just to be sure everything is clean. As a general soaking agent the Pine-Sol worked great for me. Make sure you get the original Pine-Sol that has the 8.7% pine oil in it. Some of the newer, less smelly versions have less pine oil and won't get the job done. I would also recommend using the original Pine-Sol and not the Dollar Store version.
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« Last Edit: May 20, 2012, 08:26:31 AM by pcvalkrider »
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sugerbear
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« Reply #10 on: May 21, 2012, 06:51:40 PM » |
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we used sta-bil to "lube" the o-rings before assy. helps them slide better.
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