I am Pi$$ed

[MAD6Gun]

 Today I took my Valk to a local Honda dealer that was having a open house. They had a Dyno set up in the parking lot. I had them run my valk. My bike is a 97 standard, with Viking exhaust and needles. A six degree trigger wheel polished intakes and IS carb springs.

 Temp was 92 degrees F with 17% humidity.

Max power was 92.26 HP torque was 94.86. Jeez I thought it would be higher than that. The Fuel air ratio looked good as well. A little rich between 3 and 4k but not enough to cause problem. And the bike gets almost 40MPG on the highway.

My brother had them run his... 97 Tourer. Bone stock with IS springs. Thats it.
Max power was 92.53 HP Torque was 93.01...

NOW the reason I am pissed. I spent over 12 hundred bucks on those viking pipes. Was told many times by Viking that they would be good for 10% HP gain. BULLSHIT. Even if 10% was on the high side it still should have MORE that a stock Valk dont you think. I am just saying. Spent to damn much money for these pipes.  They sound great but thats it. The Fit sucks as well.....  

[Dogg]

The 6 degree wheel ain't helping either mark. Go back to stock and notch it to get an extra degree or two and she will run better than she does now. Did you change the jetting? Or are you still running stock jets in those carbs?

[Red Diamond]

If your bike gets 40 MPG on the hwy, just put up with the noise and be happy. Most modifications to the Valk are just that, modifications, with no value. My Tourer is bone stock, will not get over 34-36 MPG, even at 65-70 MPH. The Interstate on the other hand gets your 40 MPG at 65-70 MPH. I perfer not to tinker with my bikes, I like them stock, and can't see the value in trying to get them to run better, better than what? They both run fast enough to send you into blue heaven.

[markd61]

I have a 2000 tourer i chopped the exhaust at the headers welded in couplings took 12 inch glass packs welded nipples on, so far i had spent 90 dollars plus a couple hours of my time, then i ordered 36 inch truck stacks and a couple nuts and bolts drilled 2 holes and 15.000  miles later they still sound AWESUM, was dynoed 2 yrs ago 104 horse 101 torque, neva checjed gas milage really couldnt care lol oh the stacks cost a whopping 120.00 and yes there chrome look awesum, hope this help calm ya down lol good luck ride safe

[alph]

that's just like buying a K&N air filter!!  the only reason why i bought one is 'cause i can clean it, not because it's going to "save" me fuel money, or give me more power.  i've had mine for three years now, had i replaced the filter with a new one each year, i'd be even now.

[shooter64]

Prolly takes 120 hp to get 92 hp at the rear wheels. That thing is bad a--.

[R J]

Mark,

MGM has been on a different dyno 6 times for 10 runs.    Only 2 of the runs were close to being in the same ball park.    When I did my Vikings and my own head work, IS springs, 6 degree trigger wheel, and then the V6 racer, Partner with Justin, from Viking tuned MGM into his machine.       The dyno put him out to 104 hp and 102 torque on the final go round.  Temp was in the mid 70's, temp has a ton of effect on the numbers. I was very happy as MGM only cranked 93hp bone ass-ed stock except for my dremel work in the exhaust ports.      When I ported and relieved MGM was when he originally woke up to 100+ hp..    The Viking exhaust put him almost to 105.

Now, fast forward 3 years at InZane, I had a bet with Varmint on who had the most HP.     Both of our bikes had been worked on my Viking Inc.    This was in Paducah, and the temp when Varmint run was 88, when I run it was 92.    Let's just say I don't trust any Dyno machine anymore as I couldn't even make 95 hp at Puddy Town.

So, I will only run on the same bike dyno from here on out.   I can still pull 40 mpg if I don't twist the right hand too much.  If I'm on the Slab, cruise set at 76 or 77, MGM will give me a consistent 41.3 MPG.   Every twist of the wick will cut .3 off the mileage.

Coming across SD once with my trailer on behind, I was in a hurry, was actually pissed at my riding partner, I wanted to see if he could keep up on his Yamaha.  Most of the time I was in the dollar part of the clock.    I got a whopping 19 mpg.   Speed and consistent throttle, cruise control, gas mileage goes to hell real quick.

[Robert]

Without changes to the main jet and air the changes will be small. It takes fuel to make power along with air you can improve the efficiency and get the most power in what was done but the needles are only midrange not top end or ultimate power. These bikes are lean at the top end and the carbs do their job at restricting airflow and power along with the airbox.  You got good gains for what you have done but if you want to have good numbers then the bike needs to breath better at the top end.

[Momz]

Never trust a Dyno at a HD dealer.

My buddy has a Valk and works at a HD dealer. They refuse to put his bike on the dyno, as they have it "calibrated" for HDs.

Does that mean that they may possibly overating engine torque for a given RPM?
H/P is a calculation based on torque versus RPM.

[fudgie]

I'd have to look but I think mine dynoed a little higher then that 10 yrs ago when I did it. Just stock but 6 deg tw. It had a very nice curve.

I'll give ya $100 for the pipes. 

[Dave Ritsema]

I have the Viking pipes and needles, K&N filter, 6 degree trigger wheel and some minor porting and polishing. My bike has been on 3 dynos over the years and was never within 5 HP on any of em. I have seen 97, 101 and 108 HP. Of course my story will always be it is 108. 

I think the Viking pipes were a little over rated but I still think they are some of the sweetest sounding Valkyrie pipes out there. Having said that, I confess I have considered selling them in favor of a set of Mark T's pipes with the crossovers. Those silencers would be nice from time to time.

[MAD6Gun]

 Oh I agree 100% Dave. The sound from them is great but that fact is on the same day 10 minutes apart my bike with a $1250.00 exhaust system pulled the same number as a bone stock bike. That is what I am mad about. Dont get me wrong the bike runs great so I am not going to change anything else.....

[98valk]

with a 6 tw u are losing at least 6-8 hp maybe more at redline. see icm curves in link below.
suggest u search the various factors that affect a dyno run, tire pressure, when the operator rolls on the throttle and in what gear, wear of dyno, lots of variables with a dyno jet dyno. only ones that are always consistent "can't race dynos" is a factorypro dyno.

Posted By: AlbqJim <jlantz@surfree.com>
Date: 12/20/2001 at 06:48:06
In Response To: FWIW (Chet@Rattlebars)

This data is per Hondatek. He has the dyno info if we can get him to post. For best power with the 1520, lots of initial advance with a flat total advance. IE: 10deg initial with a max of 26deg at rpm. According to Hondatek's data the 1520 will actually lose 1 HP per degree over 26 total. This is why you might lose top end with just an advanced TW. It will advance the timing across the entire curve giving you too much at redline.

http://timskelton.com/valkyrie/tech/trigger_wheel_plus_dyna3000.htm