Tuning-up the Twins

[Duct Tape]

Maris and I got lousy gas mileage on the Tucumcari ride.  We both ran about the same -- 24-27 mpg at 70-80 mph.  Everybody else claimed to be getting well over 30 and some near 40.  The best we had was 29-31 mpg after some mountain riding at mostly 40-60 mph.  She was smoking on the right side during startup and acceleration.

Started the tune-up on the SHE-Twin -- valve adjustment and new plugs (21,000 miles):

Cylinder/Intake/Exhaust/Spark plug -- gap/condition
1 / ok / >.011 / tight / carbon fouled
2 / ok / .010 / ok / carbon fouled
3 / ok / ok / ok / carbon fouled
4 / .008 / .011 / ok / carbon fouled
5 / ok / >.011 / ok / carbon fouled
6 / >.008 / .010 / ok / carbon fouled

The plugs weren't terrible, just a little fouled, but all looked about the same.  Appears to be running a little rich -- especially in the mountain air.  Hadn't noticed the smoking before we got above about 3,000' elevation.  Cleaned the air filter before the trip -- it was quite dirty.

Probably should service the carbs (maybe even rejet).  Not sure if I'll have time to before Inzane.  Will do a couple of heavy seafoam treatments and see if we've got any improvement.

The right side cam cover had some brown granular deposits over most of the inside of the cover.  After wiping them out, the area where the deposition was appeared to show some corrosion.  I'll post some pictures of it later.

Back to the tune-up.  Ready to start on the HE-Twin

Any thoughts/comments?

[sandy]

Start with the basics first. How old are the vac hoses and intake O rings? Check clamps that hold the intake tubes to the carbs. Also the exhaust nuts for tightness. Careful; they need a very small torque. If all of this is good, go into the needles. See if anyone put shims under the needles. If it has DynaJet needles already; where are the circlips hooked into the needles? The 2nd notch down from the top is good for mileage with the pilot screws out between 2 & 2 1/2 turns out. The carbon on your plugs tell me it's too rich.

[junior]

if its a 98 you have the same problem i do, biger carbs and a hotter cam= low mpg. mine is a 97 tourer and the best mpg i get is about 35 mpg but on average 31 mpg i would do the sea foam thing before messing with the carbs,you might also want to drain the bowls to boot

[Duct Tape]

Planning to check the vacuum system.  Already tightened the intake tube clamps.  There is a pingle petcock on the SHE-Twin.  It does not have a vacuum line connection.  So, I'm curious to find out if they plugged the vacuum line sufficiently.  Should find some time to check the vac system this weekend.

On to the HE-Twin.  I put in new plugs before the Tucumcari trip (24,300 miles).  Overall, the plugs were slightly carbon fouled, but not as bad as the SHE-Twin.  I didn't check the gaps as I replaced them.  So, just did the valve adjustment today (27,760 miles):

Cylinder/Intake/Exhaust
1 / ok / ok
2 / .007 / .011
3 / .008 / ok
4 / ok / ok
5 / .007 / .010
6 / >.008 / .011

Was very cautious reinstalling the valve covers and got the torque wrench out, as I did for SHE-Twin.  However, I still twisted off one bolt.  I wasn't even close to the torque setting yet.  It must have been cracked from a previous over-tightening.  Then I had another one that felt like it was getting too tight and the torque wrench hadn't clicked, so I backed it off and it twisted off backing out.  So, I'm dead in the water until I get replacement bolts and those extracted.  I've got a call into HARD6 for replacements, and also found a set on ebay.  SH-- Happens!!

This is when the HD comes in handy as a second bike.  I'm still riding this weekend.

[Larry]

Do you have a high performance air filter you re-oiled when you cleaned it? Could have over oiled it a bit, that will make it carbon up all plugs. 

[Duct Tape]

Have K&N air filter on both bikes.  Could have been over-oiled some.

[Robert]

You have your answer right there, carbon fouled plugs should not be on the Valk, they should look tan (ideally) to white with of course white a bit leaner. If you solve this maybe by  leaning out the carbs, balancing and making sure the floats aren't leaking or the jets are dirty then your mileage will go up and maybe even your performance. I read the other post you did and it said the petcock vacuum line was blocked off, I would check that, because the petcock needs that to open which if it does have the line attached it could be leaking too and if it doesn't then the petcock could be bad. Also did you put a trigger wheel on it or have a Dyna Ignition, this will also increase mileage. Most Valks run better on tan to white insulators on the plugs not black, from the factory they are set lean and run well on that but to get the most performance you want to richen them a bit but not to much.

[Duct Tape]

Was very cautious reinstalling the valve covers and got the torque wrench out, as I did for SHE-Twin.  However, I still twisted off one bolt.  I wasn't even close to the torque setting yet.  It must have been cracked from a previous over-tightening.  Then I had another one that felt like it was getting too tight and the torque wrench hadn't clicked, so I backed it off and it twisted off backing out.  So, I'm dead in the water until I get replacement bolts and those extracted.  

The new bolts arrived on Friday.  But, this is turning into a "good news...bad news" story.

The good news:  The first bolt that I thought I twisted off was actually just stripped threads.  I expected the stripped threads to be in the aluminum head, but actually it was the bolt threads that stripped.  The bolt backed out okay.  I tested another bolt in the same hole, it torqued down fine.  No problem with the threads in the hole.

The bad news:  The other bolt did twist off.  It broke off about 1/16-1/8" down in the hole.  I drilled it for the EZ-out with no problem.  However, the EZ-out snapped off while trying to extract.  It also broke off at about the same hole depth.  So, I've got just a little depth of the existing hole to act as a guide and maybe start me straight for a drill out.  I'm thinking I've got to do a full diameter drill out of the hole and then insert a helicoil.  My questions: 

1)  Is it reasonable to think I can drill this straight enough with a hand held drill (I really don't want to pull the head to put this in a drill press)?
2)  I'm not familiar with metric threads and sizes -- what is the bolt thread size?  I realize I can take the bolt to the part store and size it, but just trying to get things figured out before I go.
3)  What size drill do I drill-out the hole -- I suppose helicoil may specify?  What size helicoil -- depth and diameter?
4)  Another other thoughts, cautions, etc....?

Update on the SHE-Twin:  The valve adjustment and a good heavy dose of seafoam appears to have cleared up the smoking, but she still has a strong fuel smell coming from the exhaust going down the road.  So, I think some carb work is definitely needed.

Roger

[nortman]

You might be screwed on trying to drill out the bolt because of the snapped off ez-out.  They are made of hard carbon steel.

[Spirited-6]

You might be screwed on trying to drill out the bolt because of the snapped off ez-out.  They are made of hard carbon steel.

I thought the same thing. I don`t think you can drill.

[fudgie]

The cover still can be held with 5 bolts, can't it? Esp if the top one is broken. If it can, i'd just cut off the bolt and glue it in the hole.

[fudgie]

if its a 98 you have the same problem i do, biger carbs and a hotter cam= low mpg. mine is a 97 tourer and the best mpg i get is about 35 mpg but on average 31 mpg i would do the sea foam thing before messing with the carbs,you might also want to drain the bowls to boot

My 98 only gets 32 mpg. I do all my own maint. and all is good.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

One way to get the eaze out out is to heat it real good , let it cool and take a small sharp chisel and break the eaze out  and fish the pieces out of the hole. It can be done but it is tough good luck.

[Duct Tape]

In response to several comments:

Drilling the EZ-out will likely be difficult, but I've seen several comments on other sites indicating patience and carbide or tungsten bits can do the job (with coolant/lube).

I've also seen heating as an option.  I'm hesitant to do that since it is located down in the hole and I'm concerned about what the heat will do to the head.  It's not in an easy location to get any concentrated heat on.  The head being aluminum, which conducts heat very well, thats a huge heat sink to deal with -- but, that could be good if I can concentrate the heat at the EZ-out -- then residual heat should disperse through the heat sink and be relatively inconsequential.

I've also wondered if just 5 bolts would hold it adequately.  I could cut off the broken bolt, thread it and plug the hole in the valve cover with the bolt and nut.  I might try it.  If it was a middle bolt, I really think it would.  It's a top front bolt.

Thanks for the ideas, keep them coming if you've got more.  I'll keep progress up to date.

[Ricky-D]

You can take  die grinder or a Dremel and grind the e-z out to where you have a center placed detent ground in the broken bit.  Then go to the tool store and buy a left hand drill bit and drill the bit out. When you press hard and the drill bit starts to bind you'll find the broken e-z out will back right out with the drill.

[Chrisj CMA]

I think it will be helpful to all who do their own wrenching.  Duct Tape said he was very carful and used a torque wrench on the valve cover bolts.  OK, heres my two cents from 35 years of learning the hard way on almost everything. 

The only (non rusted solid) bolts I have ever broken were ones I was using a torque wrench on.  Im not saying not to ever use a torque wrench, there are many times its essential.  However, it is important to understand why and when it is important to use one, and it is also important and helpful to understand when it is simply not necessary.

I think its very smart to develop a sense for how tight things need to be BY HAND for a number of reasons:
1.  road side repairs where there is no torque wrench
2.  fasteners that are impossible to reach or tighten with a cumbersome torque wrench
3.  adjusting to adverse variables like oil and locktite that change the safe torque

There is a long list of bolts I wouldnt hesitate to tighten without a torque wrench......a bunch I would rather not tighten without one....but knowing how tight 81lbs is makes me feel better about having to torque a rear axel if I have to without a torque wrench.

For valve cover bolts I never even try to torque wrench on these.  there is usually lots of oil in the threads and the rubber seal change things.  I just hold the wrench choked way up and when it stops (snug) I give it a tic more and thats it, never had one break, never had a leak.

For fasteners like valve cover bolts and exhaust headers you really need a small tool thats is calibrated for light weight torque.  Using the same monster you crank on the axle nuts with wont be as friendly on them poor little exhaust nuts IMHO.  On the exhausts I just use an angle head box wrench and use 2 fingers and stop after it just snuggs itself I press with finger pressure on the wrench for a tad more and thats it

I said all that to say this.......get a feel for these things and you will avoid many broken bolts...tighter is not usually better......and just because there is a torque setting for a zerk fitting doesnt mean the millions of zerks that were just snugged by hand are going to kill anyone. 

[Ricky-D]

I think it will be helpful to all who do their own wrenching.  Duct Tape said he was very carful and used a torque wrench on the valve cover bolts.  OK, heres my two cents from 35 years of learning the hard way on almost everything. 

The only (non rusted solid) bolts I have ever broken were ones I was using a torque wrench on.  Im not saying not to ever use a torque wrench, there are many times its essential.  However, it is important to understand why and when it is important to use one, and it is also important and helpful to understand when it is simply not necessary.

I think its very smart to develop a sense for how tight things need to be BY HAND for a number of reasons:
1.  road side repairs where there is no torque wrench
2.  fasteners that are impossible to reach or tighten with a cumbersome torque wrench
3.  adjusting to adverse variables like oil and locktite that change the safe torque

There is a long list of bolts I wouldnt hesitate to tighten without a torque wrench......a bunch I would rather not tighten without one....but knowing how tight 81lbs is makes me feel better about having to torque a rear axel if I have to without a torque wrench.

For valve cover bolts I never even try to torque wrench on these.  there is usually lots of oil in the threads and the rubber seal change things.  I just hold the wrench choked way up and when it stops (snug) I give it a tic more and thats it, never had one break, never had a leak.

For fasteners like valve cover bolts and exhaust headers you really need a small tool thats is calibrated for light weight torque.  Using the same monster you crank on the axle nuts with wont be as friendly on them poor little exhaust nuts IMHO.  On the exhausts I just use an angle head box wrench and use 2 fingers and stop after it just snuggs itself I press with finger pressure on the wrench for a tad more and thats it

I said all that to say this.......get a feel for these things and you will avoid many broken bolts...tighter is not usually better......and just because there is a torque setting for a zerk fitting doesnt mean the millions of zerks that were just snugged by hand are going to kill anyone. 

Yup, I'm with you 100% on this.   I admit I don't own a torque wrench.  if you can't develop a "touch"  owning wrenches will only get you in trouble.

[Duct Tape]

I seldom use a torque wrench, and I fullly understand and appreciate Chrisj's comments.

Tried a center punch to see if it would break-up the EZ-out.  No go.  It just pushed the bolt deeper into the hole.  Next up, will be the left-handed drill bit.

Since the bolt fragment appears to be willing to push deeper into the hole I might try to get it to go just a little deeper.  Then it looks like I have room to tap the outer portion of the hole and put in a heli-coil.  I'll just cut off some of the threads of a bolt and thread it into the shallower hole.

I'm going to get there one way or the other.

[Radio]

Don't push it the way I did---tried to drill it out and made a mess!! Wound up pulling the head & took it to a machine shop--$60bucks, not bad, but had to wait 3 weeks for them to get to it!!!

[Misfit]

Duct Tape.
You may save yourself some time and heartache by pulling the head and using a drill press and the left handed drill bit. It will also be easier to install the helicoil with the drill press. If using the drill press and a left handed bit you will need to make the press run in reverse by making a figure eight with the drive belt. Good luck and heal well.

[Duct Tape]

Tried the cobalt bit, tungsten bit, carbide bit, left handed bit, center punch -- nothing seemed to begin to touch the broken ez-out.  Didn't try heat on it.  I think to get it out I'll have to pull the  head and take it to a machine shop.  But, for now will try running with only five bolts.  Took the broken bolt, cut it off a little shorter, threaded it, and used a nut and washer to plug the hole in the cover.  Put a little RTV silicone on the gasket and reinstalled the cover with the 5 bolts.  So far, so good.  Took it out for a good little run last night.  Looks good.

HE Valk still running rich, as is the SHE Valk.  Still plan to clean and rejet the carbs, but that will have to wait until after INZANE.  Just no time.  Starting to look like the HE Valk needs some new rubber.

[franco6]

DUCTAPE man save yourself all these headaches and take the head off and get it to a machineshop, otherwise you ll always be wondering how long it will hold.its happenned to me before and i was glad i did. just 2 more cents!

[Robert]

I would like to say here that if you have to use a torque wrench on the exhaust manifold bolts and/or the valve cover bolts then you really shouldn't be working on the Valk. Believe me I am not trying to be smart but knowing how to tighten things down is the first rule when working on a piece of machinery. There are bolts that actually hold things as a supporting piece and there are some that just hold things together to make a seal there is a big difference. As witnessed the problems that you are having here could have been avoided if you had not used the torque wrench. The learning curve here is high and the cost is not to bad but how many other bolts are not correct? If you over tighten or under tighten bolts that are mission critical then the results could be disastrous. Sometimes you are doing the best work by not following directions that is the job of a good mechanic to know the difference. I agree with Chris on this and sorry to bring it up again but it is very important. Maybe learning on another piece of equipment rather than the Valk would be a good idea.