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Author Topic: Let there be (more) light!  (Read 1647 times)
jer0177
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Posts: 556


VRCC 32975

Pittsburgh, PA


« on: June 19, 2012, 09:06:25 PM »

Impressed by the goldwing modifications I saw in the thread link posted here the other day, and thinking I could do something like that (yeah, right), I decided (along with requests from my girl) to get some light into the trunk.  I also decided to install a power outlet for charging a cell phone there too - tied into the aux circuit since it will only ever be used to charge phones/ipods/gps/etc. 

I started by taking the trunk apart.  Not an easy task for the un-initiated.  Here's how I did it: 

First to come out was the weatherstrip, held in place by it's own adhesive. 
Next was all those small screws under the weatherstrip (a bazillion, #2 phillips). 
Then were the bolts at the bottom and front (6 bolts, 10mm socket). 
Then the hinges and top were removed (6 screws, #3 phillips). 
Then I found the half dozen screws that come up from the bottom (6, #2 phillips). 
Then I realized that the rubber grommets have  to come out to get the damn thing separated (5 grommets). 
Then the 3 screws that hold the latch in place.  That's where it went bad - the lower of the 3 didn't want to come out, not even with an impact driver, so I had to grind it down with the dremel and pry the liner out over the stub left behind (3 screws, #2 phillips and 2 dremel cutting discs). 

After all that, I was able to get it separated.

For wiring, I used 22ga for the power for the power outlet and the ground, and 20ga for the power for the lights, because that's what I had that was pretty colors, and pulled them through some pvc covering I had leftover from a fog light set I bought at some point.  As stated, the switched comes from the aux connector, which I made 2 "Y" connectors for - one branch for the power to the iPod charger in the front and one branch for the back.  The red wire connects through a fuse to the battery positive terminal.  I terminated the new harness with OE style bullet connectors and rubber sleeves to make it look pretty (the red/yellow/blue wires in the center):


Once in the trunk, the ground splits at the door jamb switch (front left for 1995 Merc Tracer if you're curious) and the door jamb switch completes the ground side of the lighting circuit when the lid is opened.  It only takes about 3/4" opening to get the lights to switch on.  I attached the spade terminal of the switch to the ground wire, and the light negative wires to a ring terminal attached to the screw that holds the switch in place since it's designed to ground through the frame.  Don't have any pictures of the insides - was afraid of sweat ruining the camera as it was hot as Hades in the garage today.  The switch was mounted in the front right side of the trunk liner as such:



Power outlet - got one with a cover to keep things from finding their way into the socket when not in use, pretty simple install (7/8" hole saw made for a nice tight fit):


The lights themselves are the maxi led strips, 2 x 12" from autozone (they were cheapest there), and they're bright as the sun.  The wires go through grommets installed into the holes drilled in the sides of the liner, and the strips themselves were stuck as high as I could get them to go without putting them in the lid and having to deal with wires running through a hinged part:



While I was digging for the pvc covering, I came across a red LED strip I had picked up at Harbor Freight for a different project that never got used, so I decided to add it as a 3rd brake light, and stuck it to the bottom of the trunk cross brace, and soldered the wires directly to the female terminals of the plug for the right trunk tail light:




After I got everything wired up, I put the trunk back together, reassembly is reverse of disassembly, and secured the weatherstrip with some black super weatherstrip adhesive.
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Michvalk
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Posts: 2002


Remus, Mi


« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2012, 11:21:13 PM »

Slick Job! cooldude
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Skinhead
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Posts: 8731


J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #2 on: June 20, 2012, 04:49:01 AM »

Nice!  That guy in the GW thread has just been served!  (NOT!) but still a nice job.  Thanks for the info on the switch as well, I've been thinking about doing a similar install.
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Troy, MI
jer0177
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Posts: 556


VRCC 32975

Pittsburgh, PA


« Reply #3 on: June 20, 2012, 07:19:42 AM »

Thanks - I'm still on the prowl for a black plastic hole plug that will cover the screw head in the door jamb switch to finish the look - it just looks unfinished like that.  Once I get that, the goldwing guy will have been officially served. LOL (not really, but it will look OE).
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WamegoRob
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Posts: 731


Wamego, KS


« Reply #4 on: June 20, 2012, 09:24:11 AM »

Thanks - I'm still on the prowl for a black plastic hole plug that will cover the screw head in the door jamb switch to finish the look - it just looks unfinished like that.


Like this one for $1 at Home Depot?

Insert screw through it, and snap the lid closed after tightening.
It really makes them disappear nicely Smiley

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sugerbear
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Posts: 2419


wentzville mo


« Reply #5 on: June 20, 2012, 12:37:35 PM »

maybe a piece of door edging(rubber) behind the trunk leds,to kinda aim the light down out of your eyes?

nice install though. i have the third brake light. helps a lot. cooldude
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jer0177
Member
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Posts: 556


VRCC 32975

Pittsburgh, PA


« Reply #6 on: June 20, 2012, 01:09:07 PM »

Thanks - I'm still on the prowl for a black plastic hole plug that will cover the screw head in the door jamb switch to finish the look - it just looks unfinished like that.


Like this one for $1 at Home Depot?

Insert screw through it, and snap the lid closed after tightening.
It really makes them disappear nicely Smiley




Thanks - that's what I ended up with, but I'm just using the lid part as the base of the screw has to touch the switch to complete the circuit and the lid part fits nicely and almost stays by itself. It was in a 3 pack so if I lose one, I'll glue the next one.

maybe a piece of door edging(rubber) behind the trunk leds,to kinda aim the light down out of your eyes?

nice install though. i have the third brake light. helps a lot. cooldude


Was thinking about what I could do to tone down the blinding light in the eyes, didn't think about the door edge guard. Thanks.
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MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #7 on: June 21, 2012, 09:35:02 AM »

I installed LED pods in the lid of my wing, shining down into the trunk.  Used a normally-on pushbutton sw from Radio Shack to control the power.  The switch broke, turned on the power - of course when I was gone for several days - and when I got back the battery was stone dead.  So I took apart an old thermostat to get the mercury switch, and installed it in the hidden area of the trunk top instead.  Now the bike would have to be parked at least 45° nose down for the trunk light to come on accidentally. 
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Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
jer0177
Member
*****
Posts: 556


VRCC 32975

Pittsburgh, PA


« Reply #8 on: June 21, 2012, 09:57:39 AM »

I considered a mercury switch, but with the top of the trunk being non-seperable, didn't want it exposed for several reasons. 

I went with a door jamb switch that's protected by a rubber boot because it looks OE and is built heavily enough to take the "punishment" where it is.  If the spring inside fails, it won't complete the circuit.
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