Question about front damping nut adjustment.

[JaysGone]

I just redid the oil in my front forks.
Original fluids been there for 13+ years Id say.
Old fluids were grayish and reddish.
I think I have progressive springs in there not sure never got that far down.
As I dont have the 44mm tool to take down the leg completetly.
I didnt pay a heck of alot of attention as to the nut settings on both sides.
I just readjusted everything till the axle rod went straight in smoothly.

Can over tightning the front right side affect the amount of dampening??
I have regained all the lost height in the legs, but now have seemed to have lost most if not all the dampening in normal riding situations.
It does dampen as it should upon coming to a stop.
Forks do move downward.
But rides really stiff now. Almost no movement up or down<Id say none actually> at all during normal riding situations.
Im feeling every pebble in the road through the handle bars.
Front tire is at 36 psi cold 38 hot.

Ive been toying with the idea of taking some oil out.
I did put in approx 22 and 25 oz of 10w in the propper legs.
I should add I also redid the steering head.
Greased and tightened it up as much as I could by hand so I dont really know the torque value but its plenty tight.
Handel bars wont fall over on their own left to right without a slight push when in the air.

Any comments would be appreciated, as there is no mention of adjusting the dampening in the OEM or Clymers manual.

Thanks guys just looking for a solution not going to fight anyone over this as Im not informed enough to do so about this bikes legs construction.
Very different then any other bike Ive ever had.

[old grouch]

First the disclaimer:  I am NOT an authority on this subject.  I have progressive springs in my 99 I/S Trike.  8 degree rake.  With the "correct" amount of oil (Misfit helped me - actually did most of the work- install them) it was rattling my teeth on every little bump.  Took out two ounces of oil from each side and it was better.  I also dropped down to 35 PSI in the "rear tire mounted on the front" & it got almost good enough.  I still got 30K+ miles on the tire, but again this is a trike.  I would take out more oil, but am not sure how much would be too much.  May use a lighter weight oil when I change it out next time.  Hope this helps.

[JaysGone]

Usually a little less oil does the trick.
But
As you stated whats a little less??

Being that I have to remove the legs to take out some oil.
Id like a better idea of whats a little.
Its a job and a half for such a simple task for me physically.
Plus over 95 degrees in my garage already today.

My syringe type oiler for forks even with a quarter inch line on it wont get out a drop without taking the legs apart and as Ive already stated I dont have the tool to do it.
No oil shows on mine even with the legs fully compressed.
So I went by ozs rather then measurements.
Which suprises me???
I could just let it spill out from the upper weep hole??
But then cant measure what comes out.
My local wrench last week insited on my using 15-20w when I went to buy the oil.
I said he was nuttz and used 10w.
I wanted to use 5w but dont know what the OEM weight even is.
So I played it safe with 10w.
I usually use in every other bike Ive ever owned ATF.
But the Valk isnt like every other bike Ive ever owned.

So I guess Ill sit here and wait for a few more replies.
A search here had weight values used all over the place with no diffinative answers.

[Valker]

A couple of things. When you installed the fork caps, did you first screw the damper rods back into the fork caps? They should be in and locked before installing the caps on the fork legs. If you skipped this step and just left them loose, it will do what you are saying and also make some bad noises.
Stock is 8 weight. Each leg does a different job. I don't remember which is which, but one leg handles compression and the other rebound. You can put different weights in each leg to adjust it some. I use 15wt compression and 10wt rebound. I like it.

[Bone]

Did the forks on my 98 Tourer last year. Bushings, guides, seals and 10 wt oil.

Is it possible you didn't get all of the old oil out ?

[Ricky-D]

No oil shows on mine even with the legs fully compressed.

I surmise you did this with the springs unsprung since I can't imaging compressing a shock completely with it all together in working order.

If you did it with the spring removed, the level will not be representative of the actual working condition of the shock.

The only other tidbit to mention is that there is only one damper in the front end and that would be in the right hand side shock.  The left hand shock has no damper internally.

***

[JaysGone]

Yes caps off shocks, worked up and down several times and left inverted compressed for about an hour.
Springs not removed,
All the old oil was out.
Caps back on.
Nuts tightened and locked down against the cap,  at their maximum length before reinstalling.

Now the question still not answered:
Im aware one sides a shock and ones a dampner.
Hence asking if how far down or up on the threaded shaft before locking it to the cap matters.........if at all with the dampening rate.

[Dark horse]

The official Honda Service Manual states the following for the 2 questions you are asking about:

1: Recommended Fork Fluid: Pro Honda Suspension Fluid SS-8

2:  On re-assembly, the manual says to "tighten the lock nut by hand until it bottoms on the damper rod. Hold damper rod and screw fork cap onto damper rod, hold the lock nut and tighten the fork cap to specified torque of 14lbf " ref pg 13-25

3. Fluid level: Measuring from the top of the fork with fork vertical and compressed CF should be 5.4 in., CT should be 5.3 in.

Hope this info helps!

[Ricky-D]

Yep, no adjustment with the cap screwing onto the damper rod.

The cap screws all the way on, as far as it will go.

Some will say there is an adjustment factor regarding how far to screw on the cap but that is bunk.

Do it right the first time.

***

[JaysGone]

Pro Honda Suspension Fluid SS-8
Which is what weight??
I now know is 7w.
I used 10w.

I followed the OEM manual to a tee otherwise.
Short of removing the springs.
I removed the legs popped the caps drained the oil and refilled to spec less the fractional amounts.
22 and 25 oz.
I couldnt measure the fluid height, because I didnt take out the springs.

So at this point Im going to say my bikes more or less normal.
Im not liking normal.
I want softer and mushy.
The only way Im going to soften up the front end is to put back the OEM springs and a little less oil in each leg.

[9Ball]

SS-8 is 10W....

[JaysGone]

OK thanks.
Others said 7w so thats what I just ordered.
It was on sale for $8 a liter at Motorcycle SuperStore.
Can always dump it in an auto transmition wont hurt it one bit.
More or less same stuff anyway.
Ill live.