Anybody work on carbs in DFW area.

[jarale]

Just bought bike from Floriday way, got me here, but the carbs definately need work, Feels like they are starving for fuel in higher RPM's . Anybody in DFW work on them, or recommend some good mechanics?. Thanks.   

[Doc809]

Xanders Cycles in Forney is the only one I have found that did all six they way they were supposed to.  Took my sons Valk from 22 mpg to 32 mpg with a single visit.  That was after two major Honda dealers had screwed it up.

[Daniel Meyer]

Feels like they are starving for fuel in higher RPM's .

Check the petcock for proper function and vacuum leak before you tear into the carbs.

[Valkpilot]

Feels like they are starving for fuel in higher RPM's .

Check the petcock for proper function and vacuum leak before you tear into the carbs.

After you check (and maybe repair) vacuum leaks and the petcock, consider Yamalube Carb Dip poured directly into the fuel line and allowed to sit overnight -- maybe a couple of times.  Disco has used this method with great success.

[Disco]

Disco has used this method with great success.

After learning about this from the late, great Laser Pat (who used it on his rescue Valkyrie), I helped flyboy do it (successful after a second application) then I did it (successful after a second dose) to the IS that went across the pond last year.  Rainmaker used the balance of my quart (successfully, I believe), and chauffer has used it this week (last report was 5 out of 6 on the first application).

Thanks again, Pat.   

[Houdini]

consider Yamalube Carb Dip poured directly into the fuel line and allowed to sit overnight

I've used Sea Foam like this with excellent results.  There are video instructions how to do it all over Youtube.

[jarale]

Thanks for the suggestions. Did put in seam foam for 3 tanks, all together logging about 1500 miles.  Mileage was at 35-38 mpg.  It did run better, after adding the sea foam, but not like it should.  Mechanic in florida said he thought it was carbs, but yeh, I think it could be vacuum also.  Will check petcock, thanks.

[Houdini]

Did put in seam foam for 3 tanks

I'm not talking about putting it into the tank, I'm talking about putting it directly into the carbs.

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=seafoam+in+motorcycle&sa=X&spell=1&search=Search&oi=spell

[jarale]

Ok, will do.  thanks.

[jarale]

Ok sea foam didn't work, twice so the petcock and vacuum is next test.

[Houdini]

An easy way to look for vacuum leaks is to get some ether or starting fluid and start spraying the vacuum caps and hoses and listen for the bike to rev up.  Use it sparingly since the intake is under the gas tank.

[Disco]

You should do the petcock & vacuum line stuff anyway, but here is what I emailed a previous user of the Yamalube Carb Dip soon after I used it for the first time.

Hope this helps.


IT IS NOT A FUEL TREATMENT.  DO NOT PUT IT IN YOUR TANK.

OK, the first thing you'll need to be able to do - or have someone do for you - is pull the tank because you need to be able to get to the fuel line that goes to the carburetors from the petcock.  Then, you'll need a funnel and maybe even a piece of tubing to go from the funnel into the fuel line if the bottom of your funnel is too big.

1. Put the bike on a lift to keep it vertical - not lifted off the ground, just vertical
2. Pull tank
3. Drain carburetor bowls by loosening the drain screws in the bottom right of each bowl.  Tighten the drain screws once the bowls have quit draining.
4. Pull the spark plug wires from the spark plugs and stow them on top of the heads
5. Using a funnel, slowly pour the Yamalube into the fuel line until it won't take anymore.  I used it at full-strength.  You will want to make sure the end of the fuel line remains pointed upward to prevent it from draining back.  I used a pair of long hemostats, but a wadded-up rag would do.
6. Confirm the drained gas has run off and/or evaporated and that the plug wires are away from the plugs
7. Turn the ignition on, crank the starter for 4 or 5 seconds, turn the ignition off
8. Let the bike sit overnight
9. Repeat step 3 above and rinse the gunk off the heads quickly
10. Repeat step 7 above
11. Replace tank
12. Turn fuel on, ignition on, crank it up

In my limited experience, that process cleared up the last remaining clogged jet, but I had run about a tank and a half of fresh gas with various cocktails of Berryman's, Heet, Techron (as Pro Guard), Sea Foam that opened up two of the three clogged pilot jets. 

[SideCar]

Nice write-up, Disco!

[2odd]

I agree  .  This has been added to my "How To's".

Thanks, Disco!!!

[Baron]

If you are still looking for a mechanic there is Robbie at Rising Phoenix near Denton.  They are on 377 just on the border of Argyle.

[jarale]

Thanks. Just took it to a mechanic today.  Appreciate it, maybe next time.  Fortunately, Valkyries don't mechanics often.

[chauffeur]

While two treatments of the Yamaha carb cleaner described above and a tank of seafoam treated gas did result in substantial improvement, it did not resolve all of the fuel related problems on the Jeanie Bike.  The bike ran great above 3000 RPM (while on the main jets), but was rough on acceleration (slow jets).  It idled OK, despite running on only 3 cylinders (the exhaust header temps on three cylinders were barely above ambient).

Suspecting clogged slow jets, today's endeavor was to remove the carb bank and perform a visual inspection.  It was not to hard to remove the bank; I suspect the challenge will come when I put it back together.  Anyways, here's the results of the inspection:

- 3 of the slow jets completely plugged
 - all high speed jets look good
 - all floats were clean with freedom of movement
 - all float bowls clean

I was surprised to find out just how small the openings in the slow jets were.

Here's my opinion:

The Yamaha carb cleaner process has benefits and will resolve issues with stuck floats or dirty bowls.  Seafoam can clean the slow jets if there is some passage for the fuel.  However, if the slow jet is completely clogged, removing and cleaning (or replacing) is the only solution.

I'm looking forward to getting it back together and the imminent test ride.  It's gonna feel like a new bike.     

 

[chauffeur]

Imminent test ride completed moments ago. 

Results:  Yes !!!

Cleaning the slow jets was all it needed. 

The bike has sat for awhile.  Based upon data found during reassembly, the bike has only had 800 miles put on it since the air filter was changed in 2009.



 

[Six Guns]

    

[Disco]

However, if the slow jet is completely clogged, removing and cleaning (or replacing) is the only solution.

So, did you clean (if so, how) or replace (if so, 35s)?

[chauffeur]

Used a single strand of stranded electrical wire (very fine) and some compressed air to open up the oriface.  Then soaked the slow jets in the yamalube carb cleaner for a couple hours followed by compressed air.  The bike has 70k on it, but the jets looked good once they were cleaned up.  There is no need to replace (unless cleaning time is a issue).

I suspect some very fine fishing line might work well with the initial cleaning. 

Considered going to 38s, the results from cleaning prove that to be unnecessary. 

 The only parts replaced were the vacuum lines and the internal gas tank filter (precautionary).

I was really surprised how small the slow jet orifice is. It would not take much to block it. 

[RainMaker]

So the answer to the question is........  Chauffeur!